[gmshades]

Hey guys,

I finally have some money coming in to work on the motor. (Thanks Ebay!)

So far, I'll be picking up the heads this weekend. I'll post pictures then.

I'm planning on dropping off the block, crankshaft, and anything else the machinist wants to get the next phase going. I figure I'll let him order the new bearings, pistons, and rings.

Here's my wish list at Summit:

Edelbrock 2131 - Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold

Edelbrock 2132 - Edelbrock Performer-Plus Cam and Lifter Kit

Fel-Pro QKS2001 - Fel-Pro Gasket Kit Set

Fel-Pro QMS96011 - Fel-Pro Valley Pan Gasket

Sealed Power Z3818001 - Sealed Power Brass Freeze Plugs

Royal Purple 11487 - Royal Purple Break-In Oil - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Now for some questions:

- Do I buy 5 quarts of royal purple, or mix with regular oil?

I'm reusing the stock rockers, springs, and valves. Do I have to measure for new pushrods, or buy stock ones? Anyone have a suggestion on brands/where to buy?

Any tips someone wants to chime in, I'm all ears! I'm really nervous because this is my first bare block rebuild.

[Scooter402]

I would be very reluctant to reuse the stock springs (especially if they are the original ones -- could be [probably] very worn) with that Performer Plus cam...I'd get the recommended springs, have them installed at the recommended install height, which is probably .100" taller than the factory springs. To compensate for the .100" longer install height, you'd have to either get +.100" valves, or have the spring seats cut. Stock rockers would be fine. I wouldn't get new pushrods just yet...have the engine assembled, cam/lifters installed, heads with gaskets torqued down, and then measure for your pushrod length. This would be the only way to get it right the first time. If you're not entirely sure how to measure for pushrods correctly, I'd have the machinist do it. It's an expensive lesson to learn the hard way.

Good luck! After this one, you'll never get enough...I really enjoy building engines.

[gmshades]

Originally Posted by Scooter402

I would be very reluctant to reuse the stock springs (especially if they are the original ones -- could be [probably] very worn) with that Performer Plus cam...I'd get the recommended springs, have them installed at the recommended install height, which is probably .100" taller than the factory springs. To compensate for the .100" longer install height, you'd have to either get +.100" valves, or have the spring seats cut.

Good luck! After this one, you'll never get enough...I really enjoy building engines.

These are the suggested springs to go with the camshaft:

Edelbrock 5832 - Edelbrock Sure Seat Valve Springs

Just wanted to add - according to my engine book, stock springs have an installed height of 1.78", and the Edlebrock 5832 Springs have a 1.812" spring hieght. So I shouldn't need new valves, just replace the springs, right? I'm ok with that.

The machinist already reassembled the heads, including new valve seals. He said the valves and springs look good. I know $55 is cheap insurance for a great runner, but don't want to waste the money. Also, I'd hate to have to buy new valves when I just paid him to match the old ones to the heads.

[Scooter402]

Wouldn't necessarily need new valves...there's only a difference of .032" between those installed heights..Are the springs shimmed any? If so, you could remove that amount (or as close to it as you could) and install the recommended springs. The machinist could also check out your springs to see if the seat pressure/open pressure of the spring matches the recommended springs. That's what matters most, anyway. With only .032 difference, and re-using stock rockers, I highly doubt you'd run into interference issues between the retainer and valve guide.

I wasn't sure what the stock installed height was for AMC springs...thanks for showing that. Most chevy heads (that's what I mostly build) have an installed height of 1.700" for stock springs. That's where I got the ~.100" difference from.

[timmayham]

I'm not real smart on Royal Purple break-in oil but be sure that you have a ZDDP addative for that flat tappet cam!!! Just like "gmshades" said, Eldlebrock Sure Seat valve springs are the way to go. I just finnished my 360 rebuild with the same cam/intake combo you have listed this past December. That 360 is a big improvement over the tired 304 it replaced. I also reccomend going to Engine Building, Carburetor Tuning & Transmission Rebuild Video and DVD - Torque Specs, Engine Specs & Firing Order and getting their "engine building" DVD. Awesome DVD, tons of detailed information on the entire process. We'll worth the $30 for the disc.

[locked-up-XJ]

I would buy your own engine kit. I have always had good luck with these engine tech kits. I have built almost a dozen motors with there kits so far and no problems. Actually i just finished my 304 build using one of these kits. It will probably be cheaper to do it this way. Also Summit has there own brand of cam kit that is the same specs as that Edelbrock cam and about $50 cheaper. If you didnt deck the block then your push rods should be the same length as stock.

http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AMC-JEEP-5-9L-360-CID-Engine-Rebuild-Kit-70-91_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem22fee230f1QQitemZ150 305124593QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcces sories

[gmshades]

Originally Posted by locked-up-XJ

I would buy your own engine kit. I have always had good luck with these engine tech kits. I have built almost a dozen motors with there kits so far and no problems. Actually i just finished my 304 build using one of these kits. It will probably be cheaper to do it this way. Also Summit has there own brand of cam kit that is the same specs as that Edelbrock cam and about $50 cheaper. If you didnt deck the block then your push rods should be the same length as stock.

http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AMC-JEEP-5-9L-360-CID-Engine-Rebuild-Kit-70-91_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem22fee230f1QQitemZ150 305124593QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcces sories

I've seen that kit before on Ebay. How's the quality of the gaskets? I know when I redid my intake on the Tahoe, I was told only to buy fel-pro or I'll be doing it again. Did it come with the valley pan gasket as well? I'd be saving over $100 with this kit, so I'm interested.

As for the camshaft, I think I changed my mind and went with the Summit K8600 for its 1500-4500 range. Any other inputs?

Less than 2 days to go before the block is overhauled.

[JKM3134]

i used one of their kits recently. it was my first engine build but i had no complaints. mine did not come with the intake gaskets or the valley pan. i had to purchase those seperately from napa.

[gmshades]

AS promised, here are some pictures of one of the heads. I think the pictures speak for themselves:






Block gets dropped off tomorrow!

[gmshades]

Figure I would give an update.

The block has been bored .040 over. Crankshaft is .010 under and on its way back to the shop. All pistons, rings, and bearings are ordered.

I'm having a hard time about my timing cover. Last year my oil pressure was perfect. But, the oil pump cavity has some scratches in it. I think this is normal wear and tear, and it should be fine for now. I'd hate to spend money where its not needed at this time. I will be getting new pump gears. Any thoughts?

Anyone know the special "assembly lube" they always use on horsepower tv when they build a motor? I'm thinking of the thick stuff they put on the camshaft.

As soon as I have more pictures I'll post them up.

Glenn

[Scooter402]

When I rebuilt a 360 back in the day, it had scratches in the oil pump housing too...I would believe that's just normal wear and tear. Using a new gear set (packed in with petroleum jelly for break-in )

As far as the assembly lube used on Horsepower TV, it's this stuff --



You can order it from Jegs.

[JacksonsHole]

Originally Posted by locked-up-XJ

I would buy your own engine kit. I have always had good luck with these engine tech kits. I have built almost a dozen motors with there kits so far and no problems. Actually i just finished my 304 build using one of these kits. It will probably be cheaper to do it this way. Also Summit has there own brand of cam kit that is the same specs as that Edelbrock cam and about $50 cheaper. If you didnt deck the block then your push rods should be the same length as stock.

http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AMC-JEEP-5-9L-360-CID-Engine-Rebuild-Kit-70-91_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem22fee230f1QQitemZ150 305124593QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcces sories

What about these?

Flatlander Racing - AMC & Jeep Engine Rebuild Kits

Not much difference in price and I think they do come with Fel-Pro gaskets...

[gmshades]

Here is the latest on the build to sum it up.

Heads were cleaned, then flattened. Valve seats were reworked. Then it was painted.

Valves were worked on to match heads, new valve seals installed. Original springs reinstalled.

Crankshaft sent out to be machined 10 under, and all edges were chamfered.

Block was cleaned, then bored 40 over.

New pistons, piston rings, and all bearings were ordered and installed. Whole assembly was balanced with the balancer and flywheel.

Order from Summit:
MSD Black Cap and Rotor for an 89 Mustang 5.0.
Ford Racing 9mm black plug wires.
Set of 16 Lifters
Summit K8600 Camshaft
Royal Purple Assembly Lube

From Advance Auto Parts:
NGK G-Power Spark plugs
Edelbrock 2131 Performer AMC Intake Manifold

From Ebay:
New Timing Cover with Oil pump and cover.
Hardened Push rods

I talked to Tom and Dan, and they said it should be no problem picking up the motor next weekend. They are honing the block today, and will be assembling everything on the motor except the push rods, intake, and accessories.

I am hoping to be pushing 300-350hp outta this thing.

I just know it'll be worth the wait.

[vtjeeps]

Hey i just got done a 360 build and will be putting in my cj7 when i get home from the sand box.. Wanted to tell you oil pressure on a amc engine is the thing to pay attention to the most , those small scratches mite be small but its all your engine has to keep that seal .. I got a stainless incert in my pump housing and had the shop put a rear bearing oil kit on the engine , so the rear mains get more oil .. keep all this in mind it dose cost money but who wants to do it again .. if you want links i can look them up for ya let me know .good job so far

[gmshades]

Where did you find the read bearing oiling kit? Any insurance is worth it at this point.

I did buy a new timing cover for just that reason.

Glenn