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Unread 08-24-2014, 03:23 PM   #1
Paperboy326
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AMC 360, Jeep CJ Cooling issues

Current radiator is 3 row copper/brass. (2) 7x11/Hayden coolers in front of it for the power steering and trans. 360 aluminum heads, hei, Howell TBI, TH400, 4.10 gears, ARB air lockers.

After a trip to Harlan Ky. With lost of climbing jeep temp is hitting 220 and will climb more if I don't stop and let cool.

Running Dual Taurus fans, flex-a-lite controller.

Need to replace radiator. Not sure on direction. New copper/brass. Or Aluminum.

North wood? Champion cooling? (Cheap options)

Or

Griffin, flex a lite , be cool (expensive options)

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Unread 08-24-2014, 10:14 PM   #2
82JeepCJ7
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1. What gauge are you using?
2. What gears/tires are you running?
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Unread 08-25-2014, 02:01 AM   #3
Paperboy326
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Autometer- mechanical

4.10's and 35's
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Unread 08-25-2014, 03:55 AM   #4
gmakra
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Remove the power steering oil cooler and if you have a trans fluid connection on your current radiator move your trans lines there.
The Hayden Coolers are blocking a lot of air flow and really dont contribute that much.
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Unread 08-25-2014, 10:19 AM   #5
chris989604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmakra View Post
Remove the power steering oil cooler and if you have a trans fluid connection on your current radiator move your trans lines there.
The Hayden Coolers are blocking a lot of air flow and really don't contribute that much.
x2,, start there. When did it begin to run hot?? something new or changed? to much timing?

I ran an 11:1 360 30 over in the desert for a decade and never went more than 10 over the thermostat temp.

It was a copper 4 core, and standard clutch fan but manual trans. The auto dumps even more heat into the system.

my next set up is a 401/auto/AC so i am interested in what you find?
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Unread 08-25-2014, 05:51 PM   #6
Paperboy326
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My first thought was the coolers but those are nothing new. But were thinking its the timing. To get the Howell to preform we have about 24deg of initial timing. Before with the carb we had 10-12 deg initial timing. I have been talking with Troy today to see what we can do. With timing set at 10-12 like directions say. It runs like crap. Mid range falls on its face, back fires through throttle body etc.

Scott
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Unread 08-26-2014, 01:55 AM   #7
grasmo
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make sure your centrifugal advance is advancing properly.
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Unread 08-26-2014, 06:19 PM   #8
chris989604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paperboy326 View Post
My first thought was the coolers but those are nothing new. But were thinking its the timing. To get the Howell to preform we have about 24deg of initial timing. Before with the carb we had 10-12 deg initial timing. I have been talking with Troy today to see what we can do. With timing set at 10-12 like directions say. It runs like crap. Mid range falls on its face, back fires through throttle body etc.

Scott

That sounds like alot of advance. Not sure how much more your vac and mech add. You must have an adjustable timing light if you can read to 24 degrees. How high will it go if you raise the rpm to 3500?

My MSD will put in 15 more of vac advance and 20 of mech. If you are cruising at a few thousand RPMs you mechanical advance may be adding ~10 and if your foot is not in the gas the vac could add another 10 easily putting you well into the 40's.

With my old 360 i ran no vac advance and set the timing at 12 degrees and it would max at 32 @ 5000. I had a lot of compression on pump gas so the heavier springs were needed to slow the advance. If i ran the vac advance when cruising at light throttle it would advance the timing too much.

What pistons are you running, do you know the compression. what ignition system? as your spark gets hotter you need to open up the gap on the plugs, maybe even drop a range or two. I am running my 304 now at .055 gap.
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Unread 08-26-2014, 06:32 PM   #9
LumpyGrits
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Are you run'n a shroud? You should--
When was the last time you had a rod-out done on the radiator and a professional flush done on the block.
CK for vacuum leaks as that can lead to a lean fuel mix.
LG
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Unread 08-26-2014, 07:28 PM   #10
Paperboy326
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Its got to be something with timing that we have had to add to get the inject it to work. Jeep ran great with carb but went to injection for better idle and off camber operation.
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Unread 08-26-2014, 07:40 PM   #11
LumpyGrits
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Then you have other issues.
LG
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Unread 08-26-2014, 09:19 PM   #12
somedude922
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I have the exact same setup. Unfortunately I had to cut hood vents. On top of my eagle. That helped tremendously. Other than that I have a regular 3 core radiator and stock fan. No shroud. Then again my temp gauge might be not up to par. Sometimes I feel like I'm in a convection oven sitting idling.
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Unread 08-27-2014, 10:52 AM   #13
chris989604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paperboy326 View Post
Its got to be something with timing that we have had to add to get the inject it to work. Jeep ran great with carb but went to injection for better idle and off camber operation.
ONe other thought,

Lean= heat. fuel will help it cool. In small planes we lean out and watch the EGT.

maybe you are running a little too lean, or at the least leaner than with the carb?

If you have the adjustable timing light, Run that motor to 3-4k and see how many degrees you are maxing at.

Chris
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Unread 08-27-2014, 01:04 PM   #14
petey156
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I'm also shopping for a new radiator.
This is one option...

http://www.amazon.com/Champion-CoolI...ep+cj+radiator

Other options I've found is.

Oreiley auto parts, auto zone and advanced all have plastic tanked radiators with a lifetime warranty. $180

I'm not sure which route to go, Local with warranty or amazon all alum.
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Unread 08-27-2014, 01:10 PM   #15
LumpyGrits
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Why not OEM type using brass?
Brass can be re-cored and repaired-Alum and plastic can't.

LG
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