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#1 | |
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Registered User
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AMC 360 Distibuor Upgrade
Any suggestions regarding the best distributor and ignition upgrade out there for my 72 Wagoneer AMC 360 engine? Everything else on the engine has been rebuilt and replaced, this is the last piece of the puzzle.
Thx, Karl ![]()
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#2 |
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Member
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im using msd . 6al,dist. 8519 and blaster coil mine works great about a 1,000 miles on her already no problems. fires right off
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1974 CJ5 360 T18/DANA 20 FRONT DANA 30 REAR DANA 44 LOCKED |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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I used to have an MSD 6AL ignition on my 360, but when I put on the 4150 carb, I went with a DUI HEI distributor. Simplified the wiring a lot. No coil, no ignition box, no ballast resistor, and a lot less wiring. I'm very happy with the DUI, which is a high quality part.
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1977 CJ7, AMC360 V8 w/ headers, DUI HEI, Edelbrock intake, Holley 4150 carb, , TF999, D300, D30 front and AMC20 rear with 4.56 gears and lockers both ends, 4" susp lift, 2.5" body lift, 35" BFGs, ARG steering, 8000-lb winch, etc. |
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#4 |
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Running On Empty...
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Before you consider an HEI, do a search for Gear problems on the aftermarket unit,
Here is one you may want to read, http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/hei-gear-ate-my-cam-up-545058/ This is just the latest victim from this fraud, and it's a user on this BBS... ------------------------------------- If you are torn between factory Motorcraft and an aftermarket HEI, read this, http://www.JunkYardGenius.com/ignition/jeep/HEIcompair.html ----------------------------------- Factory Motorcraft distributor from a '79 Jeep with 304 V-8 engine will fit right in your engine and work well for you.... Running between $40 & $80 reman from the discount parts places. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=30489 1 ![]() http://www.autozone.com/R,APP38921/vehicleId,1276002/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,677/partType,00030/shopping/partProductDetail.htm ![]() ----------------------- This 'Pig Tail' will allow you to plug that distributor directly into the two CDI modules I use the most here, MSD p/n 8869 This allows the true CDI modules below to plug directly into the distributor... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD%2D8869&N=700+ 115&autoview=sku ![]() ---------------------------------- These are the two true CDI modules I use the most of in my shop, The MSD module I've been using for years, and if properly installed, it's a GREAT unit that is reliable as an anvil... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD%2D6200&N=700+ 400122+306078+115&autoview=sku ![]() ------------------------------------ This one is a Summit unit that I've installed about 40 or 50 of now, been using a couple of years, and it seems to really be a workhorse for cheap! No complaints so far and only one warranty (don't leave them under water for two weeks at a time!)... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D850602&N=70 0+115&autoview=sku ![]() ---------------------------------- Both modules are 7 wire hookups. 2 To the distributor, 2 To the battery, 2 To the coil, 1 To the ignition switch Really easy even for beginners with the distributor adapter from MSD ----------------------------------- The difference between the CDI modules and a factory style induction voltage modules is, The factory module only switches line voltage, between 4 and 12 volts, depending if there is a resistor in the system or not. The CDI module throws between 400 and 600 volts at the ignition coil, charging it MUCH faster and much more fully. In fact, the CDI module will saturate the coil so quickly the spark plug can actually fire between 5 & 8 times for each firing cycle, making sure the fire gets lit in that cylinder no matter what! CDI modules are a 500% to 1,000% increase in USABLE SPARK ENERGY, and not much more expensive than a good quality Factory replacment ignition module... Line voltage induction ignitions only get ONE chance to fire the plug, and if the fire doesn't get lit, you are just screwed... ----------------------- If you are just as cheap as me, there is a low buck option that will keep you running reliably... It's using the Motorcraft distributor, but you use a GM HEI module to 'Fire' the coil... You have to do some moderate wiring, but you are using a module that uses a full 12 volts, and the module is reliable, available everywhere (even in salvage yards!) and the module us usually around $20 to $50... ('79 Chevy Impala with 350 V-8 engine for source) Wiring diagram, ![]() Module source, http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=ACD&MfrPartNumber=D1906 &PartType=194&PTSet=A ![]() ----------------------------------------------------------------- NOW!. Lets talk about the distributor it's self... The Motorcraft unit is FULLY & EASILY TUNABLE! The Motorcraft comes with tuning features that GM HEI (and clones) DO NOT. The Motorcraft is easily upgradeable with 'Tune Up' parts, Cap, Rotor, Plug Wires... GM HEI (and clones) DO NOT. Search for 'TeamRush Upgrade' to find the large Cap, Tall Rotor & Plug Wire information that will all fit right on your Motorcraft distributor.... The Motorcraft distributor is designed to work EXACTLY with your engine and is a 'Drop In'... The GM HEI (and especially clones) have all sorts of problems! To start with, the advance range is wrong, and you will probably wind up with about 6° of adjustment before your vacuum advance gets into the power steering belt/pulley. You will find the HEI advance curve all wrong for your AMC engine. Usually WAY too fast causing detonation and fuel economy & highway cruise problems. The biggest problem the aftermarket HEI clones have is imported drive gears that are eating up cam shaft gears everywhere! The guy that is responsible for importing this junk says you should buy a hardened cam gear at the same time... And then you have HARDENED STEEL SLIVERS in your engine instead of ductile iron slivers where the hardened gear ate up the cam gear! Just in case you missed it at the top, here is that link again from a fellow BBS user, http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=545058
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REMEMBER, 'Free' internet information is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it! LINK:Dual Battery Diagrams & Explanations. LINK:Winch, Welding, 'Lend Power' Project, LINK:Water Proofing Ignition, Hubs, Ect., LINK:BSERK's Winch Plate, LINK:AMC V-8 Front Cover Recondition, LINK:How An Ignition Works, LINK:Ignition Swaps '77 Older Jeeps, LINK:'78-'90 Jeep Ignition Upgrades, Last edited by JeepHammer; 04-12-2008 at 08:57 AM.. |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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What about the series 85 from mallory that bjs offroad sells ?
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1989 yj. AMC 360, Cj front clip and custom interior/dash. Herculiner inside and out, Dana 60's, 5.38's, ARB's. 40" iroks. 2008 JK Rubicon Unlimited. |
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#6 |
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Go Wolfpack
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Probably can't go wrong with an MSD or Mallory distributor. Both are quality performance parts.
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#7 | |
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Web Wheeler
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Quote:
Hi, JeepHammer is right on and knows his stuff. You were silent on how much you want to spend and you mods on the 360 and expected HP output. Since you are running a 1972 Wagoneer, I had a 1974 (2) and TRuck 1973, you may not be Super Flush, like me. I elected to stay with the DuraSpark Dissy & Ignition Modual on my current 1978 CJ7 Project and AM VERY PLEASED. I SUGGEST CHANGING TO MODERN LATE 70'S DISSY & MODUAL, ADD THE TEAMRUSH, cap, rotar, adapter, and plug wires to match. In addition add extra ground to input of ignition modual and other locations suggested. I am pleased with the change to USED FORD E COIL and connector, mtd bracket from junk yard $4. THESE ARE GOOD STOCK PARTS AND RUN GREAT. ADDED 2-3MPG AND SEEMED LIKE EXTRA CYLINDER TO ENGINE. MINE IS NEW REBUILD ALSO. I got 18-19 mpg on hwy traveling 65-70 in single digit temps with 2 hr complete cool down. The next idea or path you can start or add the MSD or Summit CDI after you get everthing running and you have extra $150 to spend. With JeepHammer post of the connector jumper this is plug and play. Also you can back and forth between the duraspark ignition modual and CDI if you get stuck on the trail or road. I like the Ford Motorcraft and TeamRush upgrades, they run well and made for our engine. Please tell more about you engine set up, what you expect for HP, and how much you would like to spend on dissy and ignition modual???? Regards, Fred |
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#8 |
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Web Wheeler
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Hi again,
Here is a current post on Jeeper that had cam gear eaten by HEI dissy. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=545058 Regards, Fred |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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Thanks for all the information, it was very helpful. Can you tell what kind of distributor I have from this picture? I am leaning towards the MSD distributor with 6AL Ignition Box. What do you think?
Thanks, Karl ![]() |
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#10 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
I am reading a lot of negative press about the HEI and I want to make the right choice. Can you tell what distributor is in this picture? Thx, Karl |
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#11 | |
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Running On Empty...
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Quote:
Good foundation for building an ignition that will work great.
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REMEMBER, 'Free' internet information is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it! LINK:Dual Battery Diagrams & Explanations. LINK:Winch, Welding, 'Lend Power' Project, LINK:Water Proofing Ignition, Hubs, Ect., LINK:BSERK's Winch Plate, LINK:AMC V-8 Front Cover Recondition, LINK:How An Ignition Works, LINK:Ignition Swaps '77 Older Jeeps, LINK:'78-'90 Jeep Ignition Upgrades, |
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