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Unread 09-01-2012, 09:57 PM   #16
arkiemurph
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U sure on that gear ratio?

Murph

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Unread 09-01-2012, 11:18 PM   #17
nshefbuch
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Those posting about the tstat is right. It could be closed even brand new I've seen cheap ones fail. I am sure it can't be a gear ratio thing. That jeep shop doesn't know what they are talking about. They seriously are trying to take you. 4.56's isn't even that low. Low is above 5's. A radiator shop can check your cores out and make sure nothing inside is collapsed. A 3 core radiator as you stated having should be enough to cool it too. I'd start with thermostat as its cheapest and then move to radiator. What else is their to cooling other than that stuff a fan and pump?
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Unread 09-02-2012, 04:58 AM   #18
Oldcraneguy
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This may sound a little bit "out there" but there is something else you could try, take the hood off and give it a try it could tell you if its a water flow or airflow issue what the heck its 4 bolts and 5 minutes....ocg
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Unread 09-02-2012, 05:56 AM   #19
mike_breaker_5
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another quick one. may sound dumb but...
are you sure the fan is rotating the proper direction? if a belt gets put on wrong around the pulleys you can reverse the rotation of the fan or the pump or both.

i am not familiar with the engine and if it has the old v-belt acc system this may not be a possibility. i wouldn't have mentioned it if i hadn't seen it happen however.
if however the fan had been swapped from something else the rotation may have been reversed on the setup it came from. just trying to throw out another idea that can be checked in 10 seconds.
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Unread 09-02-2012, 06:04 AM   #20
h2ogun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoC View Post
If you are running 3300-3400 rpm's and driving 62-64 mph then I would say the jeep guy are right about regearing being the fix. That's a lot of rpm's for sustained driving.
I have a tendency to agree. Even if it were not getting hot, I would not want to run at 3300-3400 all the time, especially if only going 65mph.

Also, by experience, I would caution you about removing the thermostat and testing. I recently added A/C to my 304 and in the process added a "high flow" racing thermostat. Mistake. The water needs to flow across the radiator slower to give it time to cool. No thermostat may let the water go through too quickly. When I put a standard thermostat back in, I got a lot better cooling. When you think it through, it makes sense. CJ radiators dont have a lot of surface area anyway.

With that in mind, check to see if the builders put in a high flow water pump, that could be making the water flow too quick and not allowing the water to cool.

Another thing would be a fixed fan, no clutch, and also see if you have better air movement by moving your fan closer (or farther) from the radiator to see if you get better air flow in relation to the fan shroud. The spacer kits for that are not expensive. Also look at the diameter of your fan in relation to the diameter of your fan shroud.

You might try this too:
http://www.radiatorexpress.com/produ...aia_id=1309621

I recently put one in. It is a good quality radiator and did a lot to cool my engine with its 4 row core.

Good luck, keep us informed.
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Unread 09-02-2012, 06:22 AM   #21
Oldcraneguy
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Yeah Mike, it did sound dumb...at first glance...but after thinking about it for a minute I recalled that they made 360's up till 91'(I think) well into the serpentine days so who knows what direction the pump or fan for that matter is turning. while I doubt the OP would miss the fan pushing air out of the front of the radiator, in a puzzling situation like this all ideas should be checked out....probably no dumber than running around with the hood off...lol...ocg
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Unread 09-02-2012, 11:01 AM   #22
davbytrace
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Have to throw a flag guys.

Water running thru a radiator slower will not make it run cooler. Thermodynamics applies here.

The way water gets cooler is by each water molecule transferring heat to something else. To do this each water molecule must either touch the cooler radiator walls or touch another cooler water molecule. To do this, water must be moving. The faster it moves, the more molecule interactions with the inside surface of the radiator and other cool water molecules, and the passages in the engine. This will make it transfer heat better.

Your water pump will only move water so fast, and your radiator is only rated for reducing fluid temperature by about 25 degrees.

The only reason they make bigger or smaller radiators is that engines are different sizes and have different water volumes. Your passages must not be fouled or they will insulate the inside of the radiator and prevent transfer of heat.

Radiators cannot remove the amount of heat that may come from a head gasket leak because they are not designed to do that.

There are lots of articles on the net about this subject.
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Unread 09-02-2012, 12:26 PM   #23
PARRISH200
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I have replaced the tstat. And flushed the radiator after I bought it.the previous owner was running distiller water and water wetter.he only drove it around town and said it never overheated on the way home i saw that is running a little over 210 so I flushed it replaced hoses and tstat. When I flushed it I didn't know he was running water and while draining the water was rust colored. Anyhow, if I understand everybodies advise take radiator to shop, replace water pump with flokooler and run w/o a clutch on fan.thanks I will give it a try,and repost what I find. P.s. the fan is in correct direction,but not sure on size or the brand or kind of fan. I was told that the shroud is the v8 shroud,but does have gaps around it.i thought about using some hvac tape to close gaps. My brother in law is running the Taurus fan on his yj and has good luck with it,but I don't think I have room for it in cj
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Unread 09-02-2012, 12:34 PM   #24
nshefbuch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PARRISH200
I have replaced the tstat. And flushed the radiator after I bought it.the previous owner was running distiller water and water wetter.he only drove it around town and said it never overheated on the way home i saw that is running a little over 210 so I flushed it replaced hoses and tstat. When I flushed it I didn't know he was running water and while draining the water was rust colored. Anyhow, if I understand everybodies advise take radiator to shop, replace water pump with flokooler and run w/o a clutch on fan.thanks I will give it a try,and repost what I find. P.s. the fan is in correct direction,but not sure on size or the brand or kind of fan. I was told that the shroud is the v8 shroud,but does have gaps around it.i thought about using some hvac tape to close gaps. My brother in law is running the Taurus fan on his yj and has good luck with it,but I don't think I have room for it in cj
Next time you take the tstat out or to test a new one boil water on a stove and out in new tstat to watch when it opens up.

Clutch fan or direct fan it won't matter enough to cause heating issues. Taking tstat out and running engine simple flows more water through the engine is all. I always drill a hole in my tstats before installing them to allow a little more water to get through. Been doing so for 14 years now.

The next thing we need to check is the size of your radiator. I know you said 3 core but what dimensions? I would change water pump if you take out the radiator as its not much more work to do so.

Post up once you get this figured out for our future readers to use this thread
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Unread 09-02-2012, 02:45 PM   #25
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~Subscribed~ I've got a '78 with similar issues. My work so far has been new 3 core radiator w/tanks, Flowkooler w/p, springs in lower and upper radiator hoses, full cooling system burp (with heater fully on), fan shroud, new controller for e-fan (takes reading from upper radiator hose now) 50/50 water/coolant mix. Now I haven't drilled a hole in my thermostat yet but after solving an oil leak I'm performing the Contour fan upgrade. There's likely going to be more than a few folks that'll remark 220 is just fine but I'm finding that they're driving XJ's and YJ's that by design have higher operating temperatures than these '70's V8's to meet emission standards.
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Unread 09-02-2012, 03:43 PM   #26
jeffsmanyjeeps
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gunk in the block

Both of my 360`s run hot. One of them i recently replaced a freeze out plug between number 6 and 8 cylinder. Behind the plug thru the coolant passage was solid matter. A lot of out to. I used a hammer and chisel to try and remove as much as possible. Who knows how much more it's lurking in the rest of the block?! This issue could certainly be found in other engines and prohibit proper coolant flow. Does anyone have a good flush additive they recommend? Someone told me liquid Lysol cleaner. But wtfk?

My Commando ran 230 degrees on highway for 15/20 minutes and thankfully there wasn't a problem. But all suggestions provided are great ideas. Our should i say COOL ideas! Happy Labor Day. May you have time to labor some love into your Jeep
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Unread 09-02-2012, 06:26 PM   #27
PARRISH200
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Thanks again everybody for suggestions. I have heard about drilling hole in tstat,but not sure how big and does it matter where you drill it? Also the full system burp sounds like a good idea how do perform this as well?i will measure radiator dimensions tomorrow. I agree 220 plus is to hot for old motors, or in my case new old motors. Please let me know how the contour fan mod works out. I hope everybody has a safe and happy holiday full of jeeping
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Unread 09-02-2012, 07:01 PM   #28
cjjon7
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if you ask me it sounds like you may have a lean running condition....at half throttle. It is possible that at idle-->1/2 throttle youve got a proper mixture and when it overheats the condition is leaning out...does it always heat up only at the same speed/rpm?

I would pull a couple plugs out and start there.
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Unread 09-02-2012, 07:11 PM   #29
jake18274
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I run with a high flow water pump attached to that is good flex fan ,not a stock fan. also have a 3core radiator 180* thermo and have no cooling problems...
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Unread 09-02-2012, 08:01 PM   #30
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