Thanks in advance for your advise and direction. I have an 83 cj-7. I bought this jeep recently, and have been servicing from top to bottum. The problem I am having is the cooling system. I have had the jeep at several shops, and have tinkered myself. So here is the meat of it. This is a late 70's amc 360, recently rebuilt by my local jeep show, high rise intake, 4bbl carb, rv cam. All previous owner work has been done in the last yr.. According to my local jeep shop it is running a 4.56 gear, also a less than 1 yr old 3 core radiator, and mech fan with heavy duty fan clutch, and v8 fan cowl
I have flushed, replaced the 180 t stat, replaced hose with spring, had timing checked, and lost more hair. on a side note the jeep still has the factory t-4.which i know is gonna be an issue of its own in the near future.
Anyhow the jeep is fine around town, and at idle. Havent been offroad much due to the overheating on the highway. any driving over 50mph for more than a few min jumps the temp from a @190 to 220 in min. if I pull over and let it idle it will drop back down in a few min. Also important jeep has after market bumper and winch.
So my jeep guys are telling me the only fix is to lower the gears, they recommend 3.54's, and also want a $1000/axle to do the job. My problem with this is that I feel like the real issue isnt being addressed. Any recommendations appreciated. several posts I have read recommend the electric fans and 4 core rad. and flokooler. However my jeep shop said it wont help, only lowering the rpms on hwy driving will remedy the issue.
I thought trying to convert over to the ax15, but they told me over $4000 to do that conversion.I would like to keep the 4.56 gears and run the 4spd and fix the overheating issue. Any help or recommendations appreciated.Also, where to buy need products would be a huge help. thanks again
You can have a collapse on the inside of the radiator and it would be very hard to tell. A simple replacement or getting a new core could fix the problem. I run aluminum 2 core for mine and have absolutely no cooling issues. I even kept the stock clutch fan too. Stock water pump as well.
Other advice is I wouldn't go back to that "jeep shop" whatever that is. Find a engine builder who's reputation is decent and try them if you can't do the work yourself. Replacing a radiator is pretty easy and straight forward and only takes a few hand tools and catch pan to do so. Good luck on fixing it.
82cj7 / soa wrangler springs / amc 360 / t18a granny / d300 twin stick / 37" pitbull rockers radials / h1's / 3/4ton d44 with high steering / 14 bolt ff / clocking ring
What kinda revs are we talking? I would bet theres hundreds of jeeps running your same combo and making it work. I would give up my "jeep guys" before Id give up my gears! Im assuming your not running stock tires and trying to cruise @ 80 right?
One question, have you checked to make sure your lower hose isnt collapsing at high rpms when hot?...ocg
Good advice above, but man, what a head scratcher. For me at least! Could the pump be cavitating at high speed? How would you even test for this? Maybe pull it, and compare it to a HD job from a flaps? Might be worth a $40-60+ shot?
BTW nshefbuch, buy ya a cold one in our jeeps next year at Bloomsburg? My treat!
I've also learned that sometimes... when people don't agree with you .... its best to hold them down and kidney punch them till they agree with you
I think if it were me Id pull the T-stat out and run it with the cap off just to check flow and if it flows well at high rpms with no signs air/cavitation, cap it off and try goin down the road with it and see how it reacts. with the stat out it should flow like a fire hydrant, if it doesnt youve got a restriction somewhere, if it does it would seem you need more radiator..
you could always do like my buddy and hang a second one from the roll bar braces...
have you checked the radiator to make sure it does not have buildup inside restricting the flow? A good radiator shop could do a flow test with to see if it has any internal restrictions.
I do not think your tachometer is right. On a gear calculator site your rpm with a 31" tire, 4.56 gears and manual non overdrive shows 3213 rpm at 65mph. 33"tires are 3018 rpm. That is not that fast but i try not to push my 360 over 2500 rpm. for you to drop to 2500 rpm you would need to run 55.
I have a 4 core copper rad. and a flow cooler water pump. I can run 195 to 200 degrees at an air temp of 95 degrees at 2500 rpm. I have a 195 t-stat. If the ambient temp goes up or the rpms go up my temp will go up also.
If you are going down that road that fast, with that amount of air moving across the radiator, the only issue is that you are not removing heat fast enough. You are not moving water or you have enough clogging to prevent heat exchange. Take out the T-stat and test it, or just remove it. Change to a flowkooler water pump. Clean out the radiator. Other than possible timing issues or an internal combustion chamber leak into the water jacket (via the head gasket), there is not much else it can be.