AMC 360 Beautification and Installation - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 45 Old 08-28-2013, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
iluvcowjuice
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I bought it online at Seymours website. One can got me three coats on the engine with a little left over. The color is AMC blue metallic.

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post #32 of 45 Old 08-31-2013, 09:28 PM
shum8
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Garage
Well, now you've inspired me to paint my 304. Love the AMC blue.... Nice job. What did you degrease wih prior to painting?

Rob
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post #33 of 45 Old 09-01-2013, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
iluvcowjuice
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Oven degreaser, a pressure washer, small wire brush, a small screwdriver, and two rolls of paper towels. The pressure washer gets most of it, but the little nooks need to be scraped out after.
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post #34 of 45 Old 09-01-2013, 10:54 AM
swatson454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iluvcowjuice View Post
A little preview of the paint:

(I do HVAC and scrap old units, I wouldn't recommend testing paint on your air conditioner.)


I was renting


Shawn

Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.
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post #35 of 45 Old 09-02-2013, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
iluvcowjuice
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Someone local had a starter and the right drive shafts and another bent power steering pulley, so I'm a little further than before. Turns out the starter thing wasn't my fault, it was a sealed motor so paint shouldn't affect it, but either way, I swapped in a stock style starter and ran a dedicated ground. Turned the key for a minute or so and she fired up and revved way way high. Turns out my throttle cable linkage is too short and was pulling the throttle back so it's disconnected until I can modify the bracket or make a new one. Once I got that all disconnected so it should be at idle, the carburetor kept flooding out of these two holes.



Figured something was wrong with the float level and when I took it apart I quickly realized that they were installed upside down and wanted to smack myself. Flipped them over, readjusted them, and stuck it back on the intake. She fired right up, needed a little idle adjustment, but stayed running! There's a clicking at the exhaust manifolds where they weren't torqued, and the passenger side gasket wasn't square when installed so it's got a big leak at the manifold flange around cylinder 1, but they're fixable issues. The bigger issue was that I used rust reforming primer on the headers before I painted them with header paint, and it's not rated for hot surfaces.



On the plus side the metal underneath is perfectly smooth and shiny so when I repaint them, they should look real good. I have to get new u-joint straps as the dana 20 used u-bolts to hold the u-joints on, but the dana 300 uses the straps.
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post #36 of 45 Old 09-03-2013, 06:52 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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That's too bad about the manifold paint.

FYI, I used the VHT paint, straight to bare metal with no primer, on my manifolds. It's held up beautifully.

Matt
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post #37 of 45 Old 09-18-2013, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
iluvcowjuice
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That's too bad about the manifold paint.

FYI, I used the VHT paint, straight to bare metal with no primer, on my manifolds. It's held up beautifully.

Matt
That's the plan for one of these weekends. Strip off whats left and repaint without the primer.

Finally took it out for a test drive today. It's in 4-low and I need to figure out the D300 shift pattern to fix that. It doesn't have power steering, but bigjoe is selling me a power steering pump pulley so that'll be taken care of soon as well.
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post #38 of 45 Old 09-21-2013, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
iluvcowjuice
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Shifted into 2H and wow! so much more power than my tired 304 and the 4 speed is awesome, but it wont run for more than ten minutes at a time and I have no idea why.
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post #39 of 45 Old 10-06-2013, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
iluvcowjuice
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No luck figuring out why she wont run for more than ten minutes at a time, I tried and insulating gasket between the carb and manifold because I thought it was vapor lock but that didn't help. I pulled the plugs and they all had white on them, with just a cumulative 3 hours running.
Plugs in order, 1-8









These are Champion RC12YC plugs, the stock ones for a 1991 AMC 360 with a .35" gap. From what I've read, either these plugs are too hot or my timing is off. I'm going to throw a timing light on it tomorrow, but I'd appreciate any input on my issue.
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post #40 of 45 Old 10-06-2013, 05:56 PM
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What are the symptoms when she dies?

Plugs look lean.

Matt
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post #41 of 45 Old 10-06-2013, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
iluvcowjuice
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Just sort of dies. No sputtering, no stalling, won't restart.

My brother in law says he thinks I'm running too rich and the fuel isn't atomizing enough causing a lean condition on certain cylinders and flooding in others.
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post #42 of 45 Old 10-06-2013, 07:45 PM
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Do you have the stock ignition module?

If you do, is it leaking?

I had a heck of a time with my daughter's Dodge D100, the best change to that truck not including selling it was replacing the Dodge module with a GM HEI module.

1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #43 of 45 Old 10-06-2013, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
iluvcowjuice
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No, I have the MSD 6AL with a MSD Blaster 3 coil, bigger cap and rotor, and MSD wires. I think it has to do with the dual plane manifold not sending fuel through at the same rate. I'm going to try to adjust the air/fuel mixture screws and maybe put an open spacer. If those don't work, I might try staggering the jetting, although I don't want to do this. Any recommendations?
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post #44 of 45 Old 10-07-2013, 04:38 AM
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That should eliminate the ignition system altogether.

I had no issues at all running an out of the box Edelbrock 600 on the 401 in my Waggie, all I did was adjust the idle mixture with a vacuum gauge.

1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #45 of 45 Old 10-07-2013, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iluvcowjuice View Post
No, I have the MSD 6AL with a MSD Blaster 3 coil, bigger cap and rotor, and MSD wires. I think it has to do with the dual plane manifold not sending fuel through at the same rate. I'm going to try to adjust the air/fuel mixture screws and maybe put an open spacer. If those don't work, I might try staggering the jetting, although I don't want to do this. Any recommendations?
Cowjuice,

I doubt your problem is the manifold. I'm running the same one, and my plugs are all very consistent in color (see pic).

Is the choke engaged during the 10 minutes that it runs? If so, it could be that your carb tuning is way too lean, or you have a major vacuum leak, and the choke is richening the mixture enough to allow it to run. When the choke opens up, the mixture goes way lean and she dies.

I'd start by looking for a vacuum leak.

Matt
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