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Unread 05-30-2013, 06:20 PM   #16
iluvcowjuice
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Awesome results with that paint! I went ahead and ordered it all today. I'm excited.

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Unread 05-30-2013, 06:24 PM   #17
Matt1981CJ7
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Yeah baby! I love engine porn.

Matt
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Unread 05-30-2013, 07:13 PM   #18
fuzz401
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looking good
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1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
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13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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Unread 06-10-2013, 04:26 PM   #19
iluvcowjuice
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I got the paint, gaskets, and flywheel in last week. I went with an EXEDY flywheel from rock auto, but I'll show that stuff off in a different post.

Got a little paint booth set up in the back of the garage, got a little lady helping me out.



I was having a problem with the plastic at the bottom blowing around and not staying far enough out for me to walk around the engine stand, so I took down my old recovery chain and used it to hold everything in place.



The intake was taped off with some cardboard, and I slapped the old valve covers back on just to keep paint out because I'm not going to re use them. I balled up paper towels and stuck them in all of the little openings to keep the paint out. I figure it'll be easier to just paint the water pump instead of taking it off and masking that area off so I'm rolling with that.



Primer was laid down, I didnt get a good picture of that, but I probably should've taped off the electrical connectors here before I painted over them. Oh well, I'll just go back and clean them off.



A little preview of the paint:

(I do HVAC and scrap old units, I wouldn't recommend testing paint on your air conditioner.)
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Unread 06-10-2013, 04:28 PM   #20
iluvcowjuice
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Also, the distributor had a small vacuum line hooked up to it, and I'm pretty sure my '79 isn't a vacuum advance one. Should I switch it out? Is that a difficult task? Any advice?
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Unread 06-10-2013, 08:58 PM   #21
pman
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Ok, that last post was 4hours ago...lets see an update already!!!

Why would you think you wouldn't have vac advance???
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Unread 06-26-2013, 08:10 PM   #22
iluvcowjuice
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I was drilling out the one exhaust bolt that the po broke off, and the first bit went in like butter. Unfortunately, it snapped on the way out and my needle nose pliers were too fat and shoved it too far into the bolt to get out. It was a really tiny (5/64) milwaulkee bit, anyone have advice on how to get it out or a better brand drill bit that will go through it? I already tried to drill another small hole underneath that bit, but it just walked into the first hole.
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Unread 06-26-2013, 08:44 PM   #23
pman
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Ugh! Has a similar situation recently. A pilot point drill bit may help to keep the bit from walking. Good thinking; as that's a good way to get that broken bit out of there.
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88 Wrangler Laredo 4.2L 32" BFG MT's 3 1/4" Lift
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...-lulu-1350563/
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Unread 06-27-2013, 08:20 AM   #24
Dadamsnv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iluvcowjuice
I was drilling out the one exhaust bolt that the po broke off, and the first bit went in like butter. Unfortunately, it snapped on the way out and my needle nose pliers were too fat and shoved it too far into the bolt to get out. It was a really tiny (5/64) milwaulkee bit, anyone have advice on how to get it out or a better brand drill bit that will go through it? I already tried to drill another small hole underneath that bit, but it just walked into the first hole.
Try left hand threaded bits, it may grab the other bit and back it out. Also left hand bits are usually enough for extracting stuck bolts without even making it to the easy outs.
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Unread 06-27-2013, 12:56 PM   #25
iluvcowjuice
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Can I get those at a hardware store?
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Unread 06-27-2013, 05:08 PM   #26
Dadamsnv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iluvcowjuice
Can I get those at a hardware store?
I know it's blasphemy, but I got a surprisingly decent set at harbor freight.
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Unread 06-27-2013, 05:59 PM   #27
iluvcowjuice
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I'll check there tomorrow. I don't mind getting a cheap set at harbor freight considering how little use they would be getting
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Unread 06-30-2013, 08:47 PM   #28
iluvcowjuice
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I wasn't able to back that bit out. When I tried to the metal of the bolt bonded with the bit and made it too difficult to remove.



There was a lot of cursing for that little bugger. When I couldn't drill through that bit, I started drilling under it to try and pry it out or push it out or anything really.



Thats when I thought maybe I can get this out with a screwdriver.



I'm so freaking happy that my procrastinating to do this lead to a 3 week course of PB Blaster, that stuff works miracles. I hate this little thing, but at least it's not in the engine anymore.




And then a couple of general shots of most of the paint being done.




I'm very happy with the way the blue paint laid down, it was very easy, no runs. The black was not nearly as good, but you get what you pay for I guess.
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Unread 08-27-2013, 08:37 PM   #29
iluvcowjuice
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Welp I was racing a lexus and about two lights later the bottom end of my 304 went so that really sped my progress along. For a little while I thought it was a bad ignition module or the timing was off, but when I started pulling plugs to check for TDC, I knew it was over.



I broke a bolt trying to lift out this motor and stuff with the little lift chain that I had which scared the piss out of me, so I figured I might as well get the big one out and just wrap the motor. It was surprisingly balanced at that point and came out pretty easily.



Tried to sell the motor/transmission/transfer case on CL with no luck, but a dozen scrap companies were willing to haul it for free so I went that route. The engine bay was dirty and the frame was oily and greasy, good thing a nice thick coat of oil keeps the rust away.



My girlfriend, Jenna, worked with me the entire time and got filthy.



Blurry picture of the painted engine with valve covers. The valve cover studs I bought were good for all of the holes except the 4 where I had spark plug wire loom rails going so I had to make a few extra studs out of random bolts I had laying around.




Old intake manifold I got off of craigslist, AMC performer. It was dirty, busted out the dremel and a few packs of wire wheels to shiny it up. Wouldn't recommend it to anyone, but once you start you can't really stop. Took forever, only looks ok, and according to the pdf owners manual there's a special cleaner that would've worked fine. Also, I burned out a dremel that was less than a year old (still under warranty). I hope someone reads this and it helps them.



Got the engine bay cleaned up, flat black high temp on the firewall, gloss black chassis paint on the frame and axles. I had to take the tires off and lower the front of the frame down to be able to open the hood wide enough (full fiberglass front clip) and the rake of the frame like this made getting the engine with transmission in a little easier.



Then Kevin wanted to be the engine for a bit. He sounded better than most v8s.



I didn't want to lift up the engine with the chain again because I didn't want to break any bolts and the big chain would've been too long. I was nervous at first, but I caved and bought a lift plate with some grade 8 hardware and it worked great, held nice and tight and felt much better than a chain. Once I got the engine off the stand I could put the flywheel bolts on, which were different than the auto flywheel bolts I took off. Luckily, my dad had 5 of the 6 I needed in the everything bucket from when he changed his CJ over to an automatic because of knee issues (sometime in the 90's). Carquest had 1 bolt that would work and it only took 20 minutes of looking in the back to find it.



Once I got the clutch mounted with the throw out bearing and clutch fork all in the bell housing, I went for a (preemptive) victory pose before lowering it down to attach the transmission/transfercase.



I ran into problems with the transmission being stuck in third even when it looked like it was in neutral. It would shift into other gears, neutral, or third but never could come out of third. I figure this is because it was in third when I pulled the cover and when I flipped it upside down to paint it the rail could've come loose or something. It took a few hours, and a
, but we finally figured out that one of the gears was stuck and needed a little persuasion with a screwdriver. Shifts smoothly between all the gears now.



Got the transfer case bolted on and new fluids in with some permatex to seal it all up. I couldn't find one of the two longer bolts that hold the top shift cover on so it's missing one of those for now.



Set the engine down on a couple short rail road ties and put the transmission on a floor jack to get everything lined up. Add in a little assembly grease and it went together like butter.




Got the engine up in the air, it took two tries to put it in (should've had the boom extended the first time). When we were sliding it in, the lift got a little unweildy so we had to counter weigh it with people/person.



Although we had it lowered, we still needed to lift up the tail end to clear the front of the frame. Used a piece of gas pipe and a johnson bar between the transfer case and transmission so it wouldn't slip while two people held there, two others were pushing it in. Worked well, had to swap which bar we used to get around the radiator supports.



All this moving around got Pat worried that we were hitting the light with the clip. It was ok.



Once the engine was more or less in place, we sent the big guy under to help manhandle it into place. He didn't mind too much.



Finally got the engine down on the motor mounts with the transmission supported temporarily.



BAM! Most of the wiring and stuff done.



Unfortunately the stupid connections on the top of the steering column for the ignition switch kept hitting the frickin' brake pedal bracket and the wires wouldn't reach. I remounted the little white switch at about the 2 o'clock mark so the wires would reach and it would be out of the way, and broke the damn rod that connects it to the key tumbler. I tried to make a new one out of two coat hangers wound together with a nylon clamp holding it on track, but it's not really stiff enough to hit the last part of the switch. I also broke the damn horn button taking the column apart and putting it back together so many times. Any suggestions on what to use as a replacement that wont bend as easily? I'm going to use heat to bend it this time. :




I swapped steering boxes with a waggy box and a tilt column for a non tilt column because both of those were shot on my Jeep. Everything feels much tighter now, but it's still irritating.

Lesson to learn: Don't paint your starter, you'll get paint inside of it and then you'll go to start the jeep after the swap and it wont go.

Hopefully, two of these will work. I know the right three wont.

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Unread 08-28-2013, 11:15 AM   #30
Rollbar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pman View Post




Where did you buy the paint & or does someone have a color code ?

My daughter wants to paint her 360 after the rebuild is finished.

Thanks,
Jim
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