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New For October! Flowmaster Black Ceramic Coated 304S ExhaNew For October! Flowmaster Black Ceramic Coated 304S ExhaNew For October! Flowmaster Black Ceramic Coated 304S Exha

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Unread 03-09-2011, 09:45 PM   #1
rrtex1
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1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 496
AMC 304 Water Pump

Anyone have steps to replace water pump on a 304? Just want to make sure I am not missing anything.

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Unread 03-10-2011, 05:40 AM   #2
BioTex
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Location: Alpine, Tx.
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1. Drain the radiator.
2. Loosen the P.S. Pump and alternator. (to loosen belts)
3. Remove fan shroud.
4. Remove fan.
5. Remove pump pulley.
Take pictures up close of all bolts and spacers.
6. Unbolt the pump.
7. Clean mating surface.
8. Chase all threads.
9. Use RTV on new gasket.
10. Reinstall.

Pretty straight forward as long as the "might as well's" don't get you!
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'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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Unread 03-10-2011, 09:04 AM   #3
mopar408
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FWIW. I had a problem w/ overly-large/thick casting on BFN cast iron water pump at bottom hitting top of harmonic balancer. Check that before installation by putting it together w/ 3 or 4 bolts and no gasket and turning it thru. If
you need to, 2 minute job w/ Makita on a bench. Took me half a day 'cause I had it completely together, cleaned up and pretty
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Unread 03-10-2011, 10:15 AM   #4
ejschmitt
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I recently replaced mine with a flowkooler aluminum pump and went as BioTex described. Should not be a big deal, unless you find some broken bolts to extract in the timing chain cover like I did...
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Unread 03-10-2011, 02:03 PM   #5
rrtex1
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Can I go cheap and get a reman pump? Suggestions?
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Unread 03-10-2011, 02:11 PM   #6
Curt Reinhardt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrtex1 View Post
Can I go cheap and get a reman pump? Suggestions?
Nothing wrong with the pump below unless you're doing something very unusual...

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50038+2038003
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Unread 03-10-2011, 02:32 PM   #7
rrtex1
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Thank you Curt.

The reason I was looking at replacing it was I have a leak but my leak seams to be where the timing chain cover connects to the block and not where the pump connects to the timing chain cover. Maybe I don't need a pump. What extra has to be done to remove the timing chain cover as well and replace that gasket?
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Unread 03-10-2011, 02:45 PM   #8
LSUtiger
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Location: Shreveport, La.
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I have to take the power steering pump and alternator completely off.

Also 2 of the last 3 that I replaced hit the vibration dampner and the pump had to be shaved a little.

To take the timing cover off, all that's left after the waterpump is the vibration dampner, distributor and fuel pump.
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Unread 03-10-2011, 02:47 PM   #9
BioTex
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Quite a bit more. You need to pull the harmonic balancer, the timing gear set, and the fuel pump. You should lossen the front oil pan, and install a new timing cover crank seal.
While you are in there, you will want to replace those timing gears, and might as well replace/rebuild the oil pump.

Then there are those pesky bolts that strip out of the aluminum cover. I install studs in their place.

Then you will find the cover has eroded away on the inside where the water pump impeller rides. You will end up ordering a new cover...

Bene there done that several times now. Have fun!
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'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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Unread 03-10-2011, 02:50 PM   #10
Curt Reinhardt
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1978 CJ5 
 
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Location: Virginia Beach VA
Posts: 526
Quote:
Originally Posted by rrtex1 View Post
Thank you Curt.

The reason I was looking at replacing it was I have a leak but my leak seams to be where the timing chain cover connects to the block and not where the pump connects to the timing chain cover. Maybe I don't need a pump. What extra has to be done to remove the timing chain cover as well and replace that gasket?
If you go that far you may also want to replace your timing chain - hope this helps from my 78 FSM. Take care - Curt
timing-cover_1.jpg   timing-cover_2.jpg   timing-cover_3.jpg   timing-cover_4.jpg  
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Unread 03-10-2011, 05:48 PM   #11
mopar408
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Location: new braunfels, tx
Posts: 1,361
I have to take the power steering pump and alternator completely off.

Also 2 of the last 3 that I replaced hit the vibration dampner and the pump had to be shaved a little.

To take the timing cover off, all that's left after the waterpump is the vibration dampner, distributor and fuel pump.
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and my post # 3.

Check it GOOD on a test fit before you get very far.
If you pull the T/C be SURE you inspect cam gear and fuel pump cam lobe for wear since you've probably seen the horror stories.On second thought, it'd almost be worth it to look for that reason alone.
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Unread 03-10-2011, 06:33 PM   #12
rrtex1
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Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 496
Thank you! More than I want to chew off.
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