AMC 20 truss - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 24 Old 01-23-2007, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
Carmell CJ
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AMC 20 truss

Hi all. Looking to start planning an axle housing truss for my 20 and am wondering if there is a need to attach the truss on to the differential housing. I have things figured out on the outboard attachment, just if it is necessary for the center. Thanks in advance.


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post #2 of 24 Old 01-23-2007, 09:20 AM
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yesterday and for the last few days I looked into trussing the AMC 20 I have. By all accounts, most trusses do not attach to the housing since the tube are welded to the housing - top, bottom front and back, not completely around as this would lead to cracks since the casting flexes differently than the steel in the tubes. There is one I saw that attached to the Differential cover and to the tubes via U bolts.

my AMC 20 IMO was too rusted to put major effort into trussing it, also, I had a D44 available, so I went with it
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post #3 of 24 Old 01-23-2007, 10:35 AM
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Does anyone have some pictures of an AMC 20 trussed they could post for reference? Thanks!

1984 CJ 7, SBC 350TBI, 700R4, D 300, AMC 20, D30, 35" Mickeys, 3.54 Gears, 4" susp. Lift, 2" body lift.


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post #4 of 24 Old 01-23-2007, 11:43 AM
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Email me at Schretter.works@gmail.com and I will send you a picture.

Bascially I bent a pipe and welded it to the tubes.

My 350HP engine was twisting my tubes on my axles and causing my u-joints to go bad.

Basically make a bar about (guessing, since I do not have the measures with me) 28" long, bend it to about 30 degress, cut a 65 degress on the tube and weld the he ll out of it.
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post #5 of 24 Old 01-23-2007, 12:04 PM
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post #6 of 24 Old 01-23-2007, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for the input, much appreciated.

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post #7 of 24 Old 01-23-2007, 07:02 PM
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I didn't want to heat my tubes that much so I made this one that uses U bolts.
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post #8 of 24 Old 01-23-2007, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepin in maine
Is that just 1/4 inch plate all the way around??? If so, that doesn't look too difficult

1984 CJ 7, SBC 350TBI, 700R4, D 300, AMC 20, D30, 35" Mickeys, 3.54 Gears, 4" susp. Lift, 2" body lift.


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post #9 of 24 Old 01-23-2007, 08:19 PM
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welded mine amc 20 1.5 inch tube 3-4 inchs from each end of the pumpkin
bullet proof

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258 rebuilt with torquer cam/ weber 32/36 carb, HEI ignition ,headers 4 in lift AMC 20 detroit rear locked and trussed / tru trax front 4:56 Gears ,solid axles on 35's

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post #10 of 24 Old 01-23-2007, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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With an SOA setup, is there any reason why you couldnt make a plate with the same footprint as the u-bolt plate for the springs, then span a piece of tubing from one to the other and weld it to the plates. That way it could be removed if necessary and you wouldnt have to weld on to the axle tubes ?

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post #11 of 24 Old 01-23-2007, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carmell CJ
With an SOA setup, is there any reason why you couldnt make a plate with the same footprint as the u-bolt plate for the springs, then span a piece of tubing from one to the other and weld it to the plates. That way it could be removed if necessary and you wouldnt have to weld on to the axle tubes ?
I think the setup would work, but I'm not sure how much that would keep your axles from twisting since you have that long span of tubing, if that's the issue. I'm new to the whole truss thing so take that with a grain of salt, but from an engineering standpoint, the longer the span of the truss, the less it will reduce twisting.
EDIT - You could add two more plates on each side of the pumpkin as well that could be removed, that would certainly help with twisting.

The pic posted above with the solid plate welded along the axle, with another 1/4" plate welded all the way around that plate to help reduce twisting seems like a good fix. But I would like to see some pics of some tubing trusses to compare. Again, I'm new to trusses, so I would like to see what has already been done!

1984 CJ 7, SBC 350TBI, 700R4, D 300, AMC 20, D30, 35" Mickeys, 3.54 Gears, 4" susp. Lift, 2" body lift.


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post #12 of 24 Old 01-23-2007, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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I agree, the concept would not be totally effective for a twisting motion, but from the standpoint of trying to keep the tubes from bending/flexing, being further out towards the wheels would that enhance the leverage of the truss ? I thought what I would do to stop the twisting would be to weld the tubes to the housing.

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post #13 of 24 Old 01-23-2007, 10:06 PM
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quick question, do you guys recommend removing all interals before welding or just try and minimize heat?
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post #14 of 24 Old 01-23-2007, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdmonist
Is that just 1/4 inch plate all the way around??? If so, that doesn't look too difficult
link to the article.i didn't build it but i'm going to copt his design.
http://www.cjoffroad.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9116
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post #15 of 24 Old 01-24-2007, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPER
I didn't want to heat my tubes that much so I made this one that uses U bolts.

I like this, simple yet effective. Did you make it? Any tips???
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