AMC 20 Pinion Yoke, Crush Sleve Replacement - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 07-28-2011, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
Erik719
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AMC 20 Pinion Yoke, Crush Sleve Replacement

All,

I'm getting ready to replace the pinion yoke on my AMC 20. I've been reading the posts here and studying the FSM. I think I have it under control, but wanted to run it by a few of the "experts" here to make sure.

As I understand it I have two options. 1) Replace the crush sleve (as outlined in the FSM) or 2) Do not replace the crush sleve (as discussed on several posts here).

OPTION 1.
If I replace the crush sleve, there is no need to take a torque reading prior to removing the pinion yoke (correct?). Since I am going to replace the crush sleve, I would just torque the pinion nut to the specifications given in the FSM. One question on this method. According to the diagram, the crush sleve is located behind the bearing and bearing cup. How do I remove this set of bearings? Are the pressed on the pinion shaft? The FSM says to use a rawhide mallett to drive the pinion gear out of the bearings when disassembling the differential. I don't think I want to do that.

OPTIOPN 2.
If I DO NOT replace the crush sleve, I need to take the torque reading prior to removing the pinion nut. This should tell me how much "pressure" is currently on the crush sleve. When I reassemble, I torque to the same spec so everything is (theoretically) back the way it was.

Do I have it right?

Thanks in advance.

BTW: Went to four aouto parts stores last night looking for a beam type, inch pound, torque wrench. No one knew what the hell I was talking about. Two stores had foot pound, beam type wrenchs, one had an inch pound 'clicker' wrench and one only had foot pound 'clicker' wrenchs. One of the clerks I asked for help, didn't even know what a torque wrench was.


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post #2 of 14 Old 07-28-2011, 02:41 PM
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If all I was doing was replacing the yoke, I would not mess with the crush sleeve. Get a new seal too. Take your rotational reading and put it back plus 5 in-lbs for the new seal. I could not find a beam wrench locally either. I had to order one online.
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post #3 of 14 Old 07-28-2011, 05:08 PM
deadeye
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when I replaced my seal a few years back I used option 2. I retorqued it to the same spec. as it was.
did you try sears for the wrench? IIRC thats where I got mine.

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post #4 of 14 Old 07-28-2011, 06:22 PM
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Use option 2. You don't want to get into replacing pinion bearings if you don't need to.
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post #5 of 14 Old 07-28-2011, 06:35 PM
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'nuther vote for option #2. Take the torque reading to 5 in/lbs more than it was just to take up any slack that may have developed in the bearings since the original install.
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post #6 of 14 Old 07-29-2011, 05:50 AM
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If you were setting up the gears new, you would set the pinion preload to factory spec. with out the carrier or ring gear in. This preload keeps the pinion bearings tight. Since you are not doing a full gear replacement you will most likely not want to pull the carrier, so the ring gear will remain meshed with the pinion. So any torque (preload) readings taken on the pinion will include torque or preload required to turn the carrier bearings and axles if you do not pull them as the FSM specifies. Therefore, whether you reuse the crush sleave or not is not an issue. You should take a before and after torque so as to eliminate the effects of the carrier bearings (and axles if do not pull them as the FSM specifies).

When I had to replace a seal on my AMC 20 I did not have an inch pound torque wrench, so I hung an old onion sack off of one of the bolts on the yoke and added cans of beans to it till it just kept rotating once started by hand. I then removed the yoke and replaced the seal, which was the objective, if you are doing the yoke then do the seal as well they are cheap. I retorqued the pinion nut to the preload weight in cans plus about 2.5 lbs more. This works out to about 5 inch pounds since the bolt the bag hung off was about 2 inches from the center of the pinion.
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post #7 of 14 Old 07-29-2011, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I'm sitting outside Sears right now waiting for them to open so I can buy a torque wrench. If they don't have one, I'll try the "onion sack" method.

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post #8 of 14 Old 07-29-2011, 08:11 AM
CSP
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Just be aware that you don't want a click type torque wrench. It need to be a beam or dial type and inch pounds versus the more common foot pounds.
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post #9 of 14 Old 07-29-2011, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
Just be aware that you don't want a click type torque wrench. It need to be a beam or dial type and inch pounds versus the more common foot pounds.

...Like this >>> ONE <<< not very expensive ($35 on >>>amazon <<<) and accurate (I've checked)!!!
Keep the TW1 which has 0-60 inch pound range , TW2 has a biggest range but not accurate enough for reading a preload

Lucky you are... I've bought it in France at $90 ... thank you import taxes

Regards,

Gilles

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post #10 of 14 Old 07-29-2011, 09:51 AM
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Option 3: crush sleeve eliminator.

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post #11 of 14 Old 07-29-2011, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik719 View Post
Thanks. I'm sitting outside Sears right now waiting for them to open so I can buy a torque wrench. If they don't have one, I'll try the "onion sack" method.
Erik, If they do not have one you can borrow mine. You are just down the road from me.

Paul
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post #12 of 14 Old 07-29-2011, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
Erik719
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Paul, thanks. I may take you up on that when the weather breaks!

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post #13 of 14 Old 07-29-2011, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicflatulenc
Option 3: crush sleeve eliminator.
How do you do that?

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post #14 of 14 Old 07-29-2011, 03:20 PM
80cj
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Instead of being a collapsible spacer, its a solid tube. You use shims to make fine adjustments. Some people custom turn them in a lathe. But again, it invovles pulling the pinion out.
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