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post #1 of 7 Old 09-07-2009, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
fonnest
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1980 CJ7 
 
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AMC 20 Help

Ok I just change the left seals and bearing and then the right statrted leaking. Change the right and now the left is leaking again at about 100 miles. I did notice that the play is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. On the left side i set the race in to tight but it did work out to get this much play. I have also saw that it looks like the pinion bearing might be bad. (there is a lot of play were the drive line meets and on compression down hills there is a clunking noise) Is there any help to lead me in the right way to fix this. WITH OUT CHANGING THE AMC 20 TO A 44.

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post #2 of 7 Old 09-07-2009, 11:57 PM
sanddrag
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There should not at all be that much play. This thread deals more with gear setup, but it focuses on many of the things you'll probably need to do to yours. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/am...thread-579159/

At the least I'd say pull the cover and see what's going on in there.
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post #3 of 7 Old 09-08-2009, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
fonnest
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That is a great form of info. It never did explane the problem that I am having. I can turn a wrecnh but not like alot of you. I am at a lost and it is just sitting in the drive with winter comming. Can any one HELP.
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post #4 of 7 Old 09-08-2009, 07:59 PM
80cj
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Do you have aftermarket one-piece axles or are you still running the stock 2 piece? In either case the amount of endplay you describe is too much and is probably contributing to your seal problem. Endplay with stock one piece axles can be adjusted by adding or removing shims located between the driver's side backing plate and axle housing flange. The factory spec is .004 - .008" endplay. When you set your endplay, both wheels must be off the ground or better yet, take the brake drums off to eliminate the possibility of any interference that may give you a false indication when setting of endplay. Remember that movement from one axle is transfered to the other axle through the defferential thrust block. That is why it is only necessary to shim one side.

If you have aftermarket one piece axles, there should be very little to no endplay since the bearings used contain endplay within themselves. If you have enplay with one piece axles, either your bearings are worn or they are loose in the housing and the bearing protrusion needs to be reset.

A loose pinion (in-out/up down play) is not good. If there is excessive rotational play but no in-out/up down play, the problem could be with excessive ring and pinion backlash, worn spider gears/ thrust washers, loose ring gear bolts (wouldn't remain loose for long--they would fall out and get caught between the ring and pinion. You'll know when that happens). or even excessively worn limited slip clutch plates. Clunking could also be from a loose or worn U joint and that is the first place I would check.
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post #5 of 7 Old 09-08-2009, 08:07 PM
JLSargent
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I'd say the reason for the leak in the first place is all that endplay. .25 to .50 is just a crazy amount. Something is not right there. On the other hand .004 to .008 is just barely a noticeable nudge. I would get into it until I figured out where that's coming from. Maybe your thrust block is missing? I don't know, but I would not drive it with that much play.
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post #6 of 7 Old 09-08-2009, 08:37 PM
26679cj5
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if he has 1 piece axles,he may have had to remove the thrust block. i had to do that to mine to fit the axles and i hope it doesnt do anything bad down the road.
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post #7 of 7 Old 09-08-2009, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
fonnest
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I do not have a one piece. Still rolling old school. Do you guys think that a one piece would fix this. I did run across a WT out of 86 front and back for $300. WOuld this be a good swap?
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