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Unread 09-10-2009, 10:30 AM   #91
gtx6pack
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This is a great thread, makes me want to dive in head first on my up coming gear swap. Any thread/info like this available for the Dana 30? I want to go from a 3.23 or 3.54 (can't remember which) to a 4.10 or 4.56 on my '78 CJ-5.

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Unread 09-10-2009, 11:50 AM   #92
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Great write up, I'm saving this thread. Thanks.
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Unread 09-14-2009, 08:55 PM   #93
sbcranger
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great thread. and thanks for the advice from everyone else. pretty envious you got to do this all on a bench, had to change the yolk in the truck, man is that really not fun.
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Unread 10-08-2009, 07:50 PM   #94
bdmonist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtx6pack View Post
This is a great thread, makes me want to dive in head first on my up coming gear swap. Any thread/info like this available for the Dana 30? I want to go from a 3.23 or 3.54 (can't remember which) to a 4.10 or 4.56 on my '78 CJ-5.
There is one somewhere, I can't remember who started it. The link in the beginning of my write up here, which is for a D60, I believe is similar to the 30. my plan is to follow that anyway when I do my 30.
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1984 CJ 7, SBC 350TBI, 700R4, D 300, AMC 20, D30, 35" Mickeys, 3.54 Gears, 4" susp. Lift, 2" body lift.

AMC 20 Write Up
In Progress - 4.56 gears, Aussie Rear Locker, Moser 1 Piece Axles
Coming Soon - CV Shafts, Welded Tubes, trusses
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Unread 10-09-2009, 04:41 PM   #95
CJman77
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Originally Posted by 80cj View Post
You got it. Add 5 in lbs torque for the new seal.
So then I as well need to sinch this thing down 11lbs? Since I never checked the proper resistance before removing?

Also should I go ahead and put some marking dye or whatever its called to make sure its tracking properly?
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Unread 10-10-2009, 12:52 PM   #96
80cj
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Originally Posted by CJman77 View Post
So then I as well need to sinch this thing down 11lbs? Since I never checked the proper resistance before removing?

Also should I go ahead and put some marking dye or whatever its called to make sure its tracking properly?
I would target around 10 in lbs. You can check the gear pattern if you want to. I don't think it should change unless your pinion was loose and moving back and forth, up and down. When you drive it, listen for unfamilar noises... gear whine or growling.
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Unread 09-16-2010, 06:05 PM   #97
brandon1
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So what is rolling resistance(rotational torque)? Do you put a torque wrench on the yoke nut and see how much torque it takes to get the jeep to move?
I need a new front and rear seal so if I can figure this out Im going to tackle this.
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Unread 09-16-2010, 09:15 PM   #98
80cj
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Originally Posted by brandon1 View Post
So what is rolling resistance(rotational torque)? Do you put a torque wrench on the yoke nut and see how much torque it takes to get the jeep to move?
I need a new front and rear seal so if I can figure this out Im going to tackle this.
See post #28 of this thread:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/da...91/index2.html
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Unread 10-04-2012, 04:30 PM   #99
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Ok so wanted to ask a question on an oldie here before I start my gears in the 20/30. The OP had a TOTAL carrier shim thickness of .178" with which he moved back and forth to finally find his optimum position.

My question is if the .178 is a standard for AMC20 carrier/housing setups or is each axle/carrier unique? If they are all unique, which im assuming they are, how does one know what TOTAL thickness they need to play with if using a carrier not matched to that housing? (ie. a 3.31+ carrier in an originally 2.73 geared housing?) Again, this is assuming each is unique.

If theyre not each unique, this is to assume that whatever comes out of your axle, regardless of where your amc20 carrier came from, it should require the exact same TOTAL thickness of shims.??

Thanks !
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Unread 10-04-2012, 08:50 PM   #100
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If I remember correctly from doing mine, the FSM says add shims to one side of the carrier and pry it back and forth with a dial indicator until the end play is zero. If it moves, add some more shims. Once it no longer moves that is the total thickness of shims. Now you can swap them, change sides, etc until you set the backlash. Always keeping the same total thickness in play. Once everything is done, you add like .008 to each side for preload. I may be off on that value though. Pretty sure it is in the FSM.
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Unread 10-04-2012, 11:16 PM   #101
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Paul ^ helped me a great deal with my 20 rebuild, including loaning me some tools. I was nervous about getting into the 20, as I have always been taught about close tolerances and "you need to know what you are doing" conditions. But it wasn't bad at all, and I will do my 30 next. I bought a Ratech Master Rebuild kit, which, btw, contains the CORRECT gasket for the diff cover, unlike the Crown OEM gasket that I paid good money for. It had all of the shims needed. I went from 2.73 to 3.54 in a used carrier I got from another member. My 2.73 had a single shim on either side of the carrier bearings. I did not measure them, but they "appeared" to be the same thickness. I used different shims going back together, and the shims I used was totally dictated by the backlash. Put it together, check backlash, take it apart, add/delete shims, put it together, check backlash, take it apart until I had it right. I have read where members had their carrier virtually fall out when the bearing caps were removed, and others, like myself, that had to get creative to get the bugger out of there. I don't know enough to guide you on carrier preload, but there are some good resources like Randys R&P website. I *think*, or maybe I should percieve, that there is a little wriggle room. I ended up using a dead blow hammer to tap my carrier back into place. I tried putting the carrier in first then tapping in the shims, but I bent two shims that way! I ended up standing the shims up against the housing. I coated them in STP which allowed them to stand up against the side of the housing, and you can lay the carrier in place, but it will test your patience. Or maybe I'm just clumsy! Incidentally, don't drop an STP coated shim on the ground!
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