Paul ^ helped me a great deal with my 20 rebuild, including loaning me some tools. I was nervous about getting into the 20, as I have always been taught about close tolerances and "you need to know what you are doing" conditions. But it wasn't bad at all, and I will do my 30 next. I bought a Ratech Master Rebuild kit, which, btw, contains the CORRECT gasket for the diff cover, unlike the Crown OEM gasket that I paid good money for. It had all of the shims needed. I went from 2.73 to 3.54 in a used carrier I got from another member. My 2.73 had a single shim on either side of the carrier bearings. I did not measure them, but they "appeared" to be the same thickness. I used different shims going back together, and the shims I used was totally dictated by the backlash. Put it together, check backlash, take it apart, add/delete shims, put it together, check backlash, take it apart until I had it right. I have read where members had their carrier virtually fall out when the bearing caps were removed, and others, like myself, that had to get creative to get the bugger out of there. I don't know enough to guide you on carrier preload, but there are some good resources like Randys R&P website. I *think*, or maybe I should percieve, that there is a little wriggle room. I ended up using a dead blow hammer to tap my carrier back into place. I tried putting the carrier in first then tapping in the shims, but I bent two shims that way! I ended up standing the shims up against the housing. I coated them in STP which allowed them to stand up against the side of the housing, and you can lay the carrier in place, but it will test your patience. Or maybe I'm just clumsy! Incidentally, don't drop an STP coated shim on the ground!
Go Fish! <*////><
But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!