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Unread 03-26-2009, 07:17 PM   #61
26679cj5
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hey 80cj, i sent you a pm with a question about tighting down the nut to torque, but i guess anyone can answer if they want.

i changed the seal and yoke in a widetrac amc 20 im swapping in. i left the ring gear and carrier in and the axles are removed. i did not replace any bearings. what is the rotational torque range that i am looking for? i didn't know about rotational torque before i removed the old yoke

i have an inexpensive beam style torque wrench now, and i have the yoke nut tightened down quite a bit but the wrench is only reading between 5 and 10 inch pounds(the needle bounces back and forth a little bit even though i am trying to turn it as smoothly as possible). i am thinking that with the ring and carrier and new seal, i should be aiming for 20-25 inch pounds, but the yoke has quite a bit of resistance when i turn it by hand, a noticable amount more than before i took the old yoke off. i had to use an impact wrench to take the old nut off, and i know i don't have that much torque on the new nut yet.

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Unread 03-26-2009, 09:00 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 26679cj5 View Post
hey 80cj, i sent you a pm with a question about tighting down the nut to torque, but i guess anyone can answer if they want.

i changed the seal and yoke in a widetrac amc 20 im swapping in. i left the ring gear and carrier in and the axles are removed. i did not replace any bearings. what is the rotational torque range that i am looking for? i didn't know about rotational torque before i removed the old yoke

i have an inexpensive beam style torque wrench now, and i have the yoke nut tightened down quite a bit but the wrench is only reading between 5 and 10 inch pounds(the needle bounces back and forth a little bit even though i am trying to turn it as smoothly as possible). i am thinking that with the ring and carrier and new seal, i should be aiming for 20-25 inch pounds, but the yoke has quite a bit of resistance when i turn it by hand, a noticable amount more than before i took the old yoke off. i had to use an impact wrench to take the old nut off, and i know i don't have that much torque on the new nut yet.
That's a hard one to answer since as you know, you're supposed to referrence your original preload reading plus 5 inch pounds. What you don't want to do is compress the crush tube any further. If I was in that situation, I would leave it where it is (between 5 and 10 in lbs). A new seal supposedly introduces about 5 in lbs of drag. A high mileage carrier with the axles out doesn't produce that much drag. Good luck
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Unread 03-27-2009, 04:10 AM   #63
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thanks for the reply. i guess i will leave it where it is, i sorta have the feeling i should've stopped a little sooner than i did but i have no choice now but to go with what i have. this is the first vehicle i have ever really worked on, so i have almost no experience with any of it.
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Unread 04-14-2009, 05:27 AM   #64
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Great post guys, but I have a question. My right and left side carrier shims are both one piece (thick), and have to be driven in, therefore preloading the carrier bearings. When adjusting backlash by moving thinner shims from side to side, how do you get the carrier in w/o using a case spreader?
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Unread 04-14-2009, 06:43 AM   #65
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I used a dead blow hammer.

Remember though, once you get your preload set, you will have to remove shims from one side when you add to the other. Also, it sounds like you are putting your shims in after your carrier, I did it the opposite way. I installed the shims in the case, then used the dead blow hammer to get the carrier in. Put the thicker shims on the outside, closest to the carrier, so that the shims won't be damaged when you hit on the carrier.

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1984 CJ 7, SBC 350TBI, 700R4, D 300, AMC 20, D30, 35" Mickeys, 3.54 Gears, 4" susp. Lift, 2" body lift.

AMC 20 Write Up
In Progress - 4.56 gears, Aussie Rear Locker, Moser 1 Piece Axles
Coming Soon - CV Shafts, Welded Tubes, trusses
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Unread 04-15-2009, 08:32 PM   #66
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OK guys, everything went well untill the very end. I got the gear pattern I wanted, got the carrier shims worked out, and was ready for my final assembly. I removed the carrier, installed the new outer pinion bearing, oil seal, crush ring, and started on with the yoke. I was careful not to overtighten, watching for 25 lb-in of rotational torque. I fealt the bearing pull into the race, and started checking drag, and stopped at approx. 25.

My problem is that the yoke is not pulled up on the pinion shaft very far. There is still quite a bit of threads showing in the nut, and probaly 1/4" gap between the seal and the yoke shoulder.. So after much debate, I removed the pinion shaft again to make sure my races were seated, and they were. I measured the races compared to the ones I removed, and they were the same. So I measured the space within the housing between the race seats, and transfered it to the pinion shaft, and it all checks out, indicating my pinion shaft is to short, but thats not possible eighter, so I'm stumped.

I can't say that I remember how far the yoke was off the housing before I took it apart, but I believe I would have noticed the nut not being fully threaded on the shaft.

Any thoughts to help a brother out.
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Unread 04-15-2009, 08:59 PM   #67
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Did you use a thick washer under the nut? I believe the nut used on the AMC 20 pinion is the flanged type with an intregral washer
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Unread 04-15-2009, 09:10 PM   #68
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Is it possible that you have more tightening up to do? It's a gut buster to get the amount of torque necessary to begin the roll over of the crush spacer before you would concentrate on the rotational torque.
Given the fact all things inside are as they should be.
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Unread 04-15-2009, 09:32 PM   #69
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Thanks for the replies.
#1. The nut does not have a washer, it is integral with the nut.

#2. I kept reading about how hard it was to start the crush washer bending, but my bearings started locking up quickly, but they should have because by tighting the nut you are pressing the tapered bearing in the race, correct?

I also put the old crush sleeve back in to check depth, and the yoke still would not pull up.
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Unread 04-15-2009, 09:56 PM   #70
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Most likely it's gonna take all you can give it and you must remember to steadily secure the yoke before you start adding in the lunges.

The bearings set into the cup requires a lot of force and then all of a sudden the roll of the sleeve begins and you will notice the change in force necessary to move the nut then the rotational torque must be checked, at any suspected movement of the nut. Care must be taken here.

That old sleeve, put it away, maybe a keepsake.
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Unread 04-15-2009, 11:29 PM   #71
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So you're not using a separate flat washer, right?
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Unread 04-16-2009, 04:53 AM   #72
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Sometimes you need a break......This morning it came to me what I did wrong. I have the crush sleeve between the bearing and the yoke, and it must go inboard of the bearing, like the shims on the Dana 30. That way you would have to start crushing the sleeve (max force) before the bearing sets in the race.
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Unread 04-16-2009, 05:24 AM   #73
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Yes that would be the correct placement, between the inner and outer bearing. Do you suppose that you crushed the sleeve at all?
I suppose more than 280 ft. pounds of force would have been necessary and I would suggest you pick up a new nut.

Last edited by mcmud; 04-16-2009 at 05:49 AM..
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Unread 04-16-2009, 08:29 AM   #74
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No, the crush sleeve never started to compress. With it where I had it, it was just pressing the bearing harder into the race. So I'm glad I watched my torque and I didn't hurt the bearing. I'll finish it up tonight!
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Unread 04-16-2009, 08:57 AM   #75
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Well, at least you found your own mistake and nothing got screwed up in the process. We learn by doing.
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