AMC 20 E-brake set-up after nissan disk brakes - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 19 Old 06-15-2012, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
hopefulcj76
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AMC 20 E-brake set-up after nissan disk brakes

After i have installed the rear nissan/geo disk brakes, what is the best way to hook up the e-brake? I have the e-break pedal and cable to the equalizer, I bought the right and left cables a while ago and am not trying to set it all up. Of course they are slightly short on both ends, so my question is should I try to extend the cable? Or could I run coated cables (bought from home depot), add some cable ends to them and run the lines through some of the oem brackets and Mcgiver some brackets by the axle? I have searched this thread and have seen both done, mostly on the ford 8.8 swap though. Will this work? Should I buy longer stock cables? Do I need the spring on the stock cable?

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post #2 of 19 Old 06-15-2012, 02:51 PM
Dborns
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Funny that you brought this as I've been calling around looking for parts for this today. About a year ago, I bought a set of brackets for the calipers off a member here, but now can't remember what calipers they are for. I'm hoping they are for the nissan calipers, because I found a set locally for $80. I found a few write-ups on other sites, but none show the e-brake setup. Hopefully someone has some pics because I'd like to work on this over the weekend.
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post #3 of 19 Old 06-15-2012, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
hopefulcj76
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From what i have seen you mount the w brake cable below the axle since the nissan e brake pulls down. I jave seen one guy use a metal elbow for this and others have said they jist routed them ubder tue axle but didn't how any pictures.
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post #4 of 19 Old 06-15-2012, 03:28 PM
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Is the brake e-brake cable just too short? I did an axle swap with a wagoneer 44 with drum brakes and all I had to do was get some matching all thread a coupling nut from fastenall and cut the original near the base. I then cut the stick of all thread to the length I needed. I should probably take a pic when I get home it is pretty basic when you see it.

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post #5 of 19 Old 06-15-2012, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
hopefulcj76
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So what you are saying in a simplized way is thay you extended it at the equalizer? That would probably be easiest as long as I can find the same size thread.
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post #6 of 19 Old 06-15-2012, 06:48 PM
D-BO
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Yeah here is a pic. I don't know if yours is more complicated or not, but all I had to do was make the threads longer. Yes it was tricky to find the parts because my threads were 5/16 x 24 (or fine thread). I bought the coupling nut shown in the picture and a stick of all thread at fastenall. I would suggest bringing in one of the original nuts on the end of the thread of your e-brake cable and have them match the threads. I cut the threaded portion of the e-brake cable down towards the based leaving enough thread to thread the coupling nut half way. Then cut the stick of all thread to the length I needed and threaded that on effectively lengthening the threaded portion. My e-brake now works great.

Now I could forsee some issues you might have if your e-brake cables need to be pulled out longer than mine did. I just now this worked for me.
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post #7 of 19 Old 06-15-2012, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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That looks like that will be the easiest and best route for me. If you wouldn't mind, could you post more pictures of how your cables are routed. Mine were stripped out by the PO and i don't have anything to go off of.
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post #8 of 19 Old 06-15-2012, 07:05 PM
D-BO
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What specifically are you needing? Mine still has the stock setup up to the front so all it is is a cable that runs up the frame and then through the hole in the floor board. And from the axles it's just those to ebrake lines joining up to where you see in the pic.

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post #9 of 19 Old 06-15-2012, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
hopefulcj76
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Are the e-brake cables secured to anythibg at the equalizer on? Or are they just "secured" and not actually bolted down? I'm not sure where to route the cables and how to hold them in place.
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post #10 of 19 Old 06-15-2012, 07:19 PM
D-BO
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The e-brakes from the axles go through 2 holes in the stock bracket using some hardware to secure them. Here is a pick of the back side of the bracket and you can see the front side in the original pic. That sucks if all that is gone off of yours. The plate should be there still with the 2 holes for the e-brake lines to go through and meet up with the equilizer. You need that hardware because you need something to hold the outside cables while the equilizer pulls the inside cable.
All that stuff was on mine already so I just re-used it and assmbled it just like it was with the original set-up.
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post #11 of 19 Old 06-15-2012, 07:23 PM
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Here the arrow is pointing to the fasteners that secure the e-brake cables to the plate. Are you saying you don't have any of this?
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post #12 of 19 Old 06-15-2012, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
hopefulcj76
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Awesome man, this all makes sense now. I have the plate attached to the frame and new cables/hardware, I just had no clue how it all went together. I was content with just attaching the cable to the equalizer and B-lining it to the e-brake. Thanks man, thank you for replying and posting the pics, hopefully i can square this away tomorrow.
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post #13 of 19 Old 06-15-2012, 08:49 PM
Dborns
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DBO-So the nissan calipers hook right up to the brake cable, or did you have to do anything special there?
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post #14 of 19 Old 06-15-2012, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
hopefulcj76
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Last question, the side that attaches to the plate, is it the short cable end or the longer cable end with the spring around it?
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post #15 of 19 Old 06-15-2012, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
hopefulcj76
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Dborns, the connection is the same but the cable itself needs to be lengthened. It's just q cable end, like on a bicycle brake cable on the handle side.
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