AMC 20 1 Piece Axle Conversion Question - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 9 Old 07-11-2013, 04:02 AM Thread Starter
highred
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AMC 20 1 Piece Axle Conversion Question

I've seen several posts on here about performing the conversion, but I still don't get that warm and fuzzy feeling that I fully get the entire process...

Mine is a 1979 CJ7 AMC 20 narrow track. Currently the passenger side axle is slightly leaking. I have to add gear oil to the diff every couple hundred miles. I've tried adding Seal Stop but that didn't work. I feel like this is a failure waiting to happen.

So... I figure if I am going to tear into the rear axle, I might as well go ahead and do the 1 piece conversion. But I keep hearing that even if I buy a new 1 piece axle kit, I still have to take them to get the bearings pressed on. Is there something I am missing here because it would seem to me that someone would sell a 1 piece axle conversion kit with the bearings already pressed on.... I don't get it...

I live 25 miles from town and will be reduced to a motorcycle once the CJ goes down. I don't want to have to travel somewhere with axles on a motorcycle if I can avoid it.

1. What's the best (efficient and complete) 1 piece kit to buy?

2. Someone needs to make video instructions on this job, because the written ones I have read do not get me fired up.

Thanks for any input!

Rob Caldwell

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post #2 of 9 Old 07-11-2013, 05:36 AM
Captainak
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I recently changed mine and yes the bearing need to be pressed on with the all the parts in the correct order that means more to carry to the shop. What about having the axles drop shipped at the shop. I've done this b4.

I went with moser axles & I converted to the R&P 4WD Disc Brake conversion kit while I was at it.

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post #3 of 9 Old 07-11-2013, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
highred
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captainak
I recently changed mine and yes the bearing need to be pressed on with the all the parts in the correct order that means more to carry to the shop. What about having the axles drop shipped at the shop. I've done this b4.

I went with moser axles & I converted to the R&P 4WD Disc Brake conversion kit while I was at it.
Well then, I guess I will order the axles, have then delivered to my home, drive them to the shop for the press fitting, take them home and open up my axles. Still don't understand why this isn't done from the people that sell the axle kits.
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post #4 of 9 Old 07-11-2013, 07:46 AM
WindKnot
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Still don't understand?

Take a look at the instructions from Moser: http://www.moserengineering.com/aitd...aitfile_id/88/

Notice that the EXISTING BRAKE BACKING PLATE FROM YOUR JEEP must be slipped onto the axle BEFORE the bearings are pressed onto the axle. (As well as the bearing seal.)

Nobody makes that part anymore, and if they did the kit would cost significantly more. Before you go to the shop, take the time to make sure the area immediately around the hole that the axle slides through is flat. You're going to apply some sealant there when assembling the axle and want that area to be flat for a better fit and seal.

Buy a decent set and you'll be farther ahead. Mosers are EXCELLENT!

AND READ THE DIRECTIONS! TWICE! They are simple and straightforward. If you get lost or don't understand, get back to us. We'll go over it with you. When I do it, I do it in two stages so that I can install an "assembly" with fewer moving parts covered with silicone to manage. It takes longer because the silicone needs to set and dry, but I believe I get better and less messy results. It takes more time to go and have the bearings pressed than to do the job. It really is pretty simple.

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post #5 of 9 Old 07-11-2013, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
highred
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WindKnot View Post
Still don't understand?

Take a look at the instructions from Moser: http://www.moserengineering.com/aitd...aitfile_id/88/

Notice that the EXISTING BRAKE BACKING PLATE FROM YOUR JEEP must be slipped onto the axle BEFORE the bearings are pressed onto the axle. (As well as the bearing seal.)

Nobody makes that part anymore, and if they did the kit would cost significantly more. Before you go to the shop, take the time to make sure the area immediately around the hole that the axle slides through is flat. You're going to apply some sealant there when assembling the axle and want that area to be flat for a better fit and seal.

Buy a decent set and you'll be farther ahead.

AND READ THE DIRECTIONS! TWICE!
Don't hate ("still don't understand?"), and then explain!?! You just made more sense then any of the other explanations I've heard or directions that I've read!

Yes, now I "understand". And I can see that this is going to be a friggin logistical NIGHTMARE to do this job. I think I might just try to pull the leaky side and just fix that.

I was hoping for new axles.........
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post #6 of 9 Old 07-11-2013, 08:08 AM
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Not hating. Meant as an honest question. Limited to one vehicle?

Most of the time (not always) the existing axle splines get chewed up or otherwise damaged in the pulling process and it's cheaper or at least close enough in price to be worthwhile to just change out the axle and rid yourself of the "Achilles' Heel" of the AMC20. (And it's easier to reassemble too.)

I'd really recommend the axle upgrade if at all possible. I believe it's worth the logistical nightmare. I don't know, maybe set up an "appointment" for the shop so you don't need to make two trips?

I'd rather be lost on the trails than found at home!

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post #7 of 9 Old 07-11-2013, 08:39 AM
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for another $100 get yourself a 10 ton HF press and do it yourself.... it's amazing how much use they get when you have one....

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To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
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post #8 of 9 Old 07-12-2013, 08:34 AM
Captainak
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I've also read and heard that you can do so "carefully" with a tube and sledge hammer Omer the axle

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post #9 of 9 Old 07-12-2013, 09:21 AM
LumpyGrits
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Done all of them with the sliding pipe to install the bearings. Works great. Just sit the hub on a 4X4 block of wood.
Hope you have a strong hub puller to get the OEM, 2 piece hubs apart.
BTW, OP with that leaking seal you have. You do understand that those brake shoes are oil soaked and useless. Plan on a brake job with the axle change.
LG
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