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Unread 07-09-2010, 05:43 AM   #1
abernut
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Aluminum Valve Cover Install

So after cracking my original, greatly built, plastic valve cover I opted to buy an aluminum one. When it finally showed up at my front door step I was amazed at the difference between the two.

I read through the instructions about three times and printed out this thread Valve cover options

I luckily work for a company that has their own tooling/molding shop. So I went and asked for the tools I needed.

Here are the 5/16 X 18 Tap, bottom Tap, and Tap wrench.


After removing the old plastic cover I cleaned the head with a wire brush to remove all of the RTV I had previously used. When I thought I was done, I cleaned it one more time for good measures. I also used a bungy cord to hold my hose and electrical conduit out of my way. I even removed the fuel line from in front of the valve cover. Made things a lot easier to do.


I then started tapping my holes. I measured 1/2 inch on the bits and wrapped electrical tape there. I started with the regular beveled tap and then switched to the bottom tap. The bottom tap is just like a normal tap but with a flat tip. I had my brother holding my shop vac with a small nozzle next to the hole to suck up all the shavings.


The kit I bought came with 5 5/16 bolts and two of the smaller ones. With it being almost 11:00pm I didn't re-drill the three holes on the passenger and used the original bolts. I will probably redo it later down the road.

I then cleaned everything again and applied the High Temp RTV to the head. I then put the gasket on the head and put the bolts in to ensure my gasket didn't move while I let the RTV cure for about 5 minutes. I also put a nice bead on the Valve Cover.


I removed the bolts from the head that were keeping my gasket from moving and put the new valve cover on and tightened the bolts down. I couldn't find a torque wrench that had inches so this time I just snugged them down being careful not to over tighten. I starting from the center and worked my way around the cover tightening a little as I went.

Here is the finished product. I went ahead and purchased a new air breather for the valve cover. I used to have a hose going to my air cleaner.

Here is the engine as it was a month ago.



And here it is after doing the Nutter-Bypass, removing all the computer wires, painting the air cleaner and new valve cover.


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Unread 07-09-2010, 07:13 AM   #2
geochaf1
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looks good! Your engine compartment looks a lot easier to work in after removing all the unnecessary stuff. Gives me hope for mine...
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Unread 07-09-2010, 07:34 AM   #3
abernut
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Here's a closer look.
Still a long way to go, but slowly getting there.


This weekend I am going to tackle the Charcoal Canister and Fluid tanks...After seeing Kens http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ke...hread-1040550/ I am feeling inspired.
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Unread 07-09-2010, 08:33 AM   #4
dspec
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Great thread! I will be doing this job on my 7 in less then two weeks.
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Unread 03-22-2011, 10:03 PM   #5
WHiTEBOi619
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what kind of carb is that? thats what i have been looking for since i got my cj7
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Unread 03-23-2011, 12:26 AM   #6
CJ65
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I am thinking of doing this. I hate the plastic valve cover. Yours looks great btw! I am chicken to drill into my head though. I am thinking of an aluminum one that utilizes all the bridge studs as well as the base holes instead of drilling. Does anyone have a recommendation? Is there such an animal?

You have inspired me!
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Unread 03-23-2011, 12:33 AM   #7
JugaLug
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The link in the first post listed Westside Performance, but the link to there site was wrong. Here is the correct link.
http://westsideperformance.org/products.html
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Unread 04-25-2011, 02:14 PM   #8
Bonehead13
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Looks great! doing mine this week. How and where did you run all the vacum lines? anyone know?
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Unread 04-25-2011, 02:23 PM   #9
abernut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonehead13 View Post
Looks great! doing mine this week. How and where did you run all the vacum lines? anyone know?
Is yours nuttered
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Unread 04-25-2011, 04:39 PM   #10
Erik719
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Looks nice. Not to bust your balls but Click and Clack say not to use RTV on your valve cover gaskets. Supposedly it won't seal correctly and you will get leaks. They recommended using only the factory spec gasket. For what it's worth.....
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Unread 04-26-2011, 05:33 AM   #11
abernut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik719 View Post
Looks nice. Not to bust your balls but Click and Clack say not to use RTV on your valve cover gaskets. Supposedly it won't seal correctly and you will get leaks. They recommended using only the factory spec gasket. For what it's worth.....
I read that somewhere but to this day, my jeep doesn't leak a single drop of oil. Scary, I know.
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Unread 04-26-2011, 09:15 AM   #12
Oily
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I bought a Clifford aluminum valve cover and they suggested and supplied yellow weatherstrip adhesive. The instructions stated to *glue* it to the valve cover.
I say this because, I would never glue a gasket to the head. It will have to be scraped at sometime later. Gluing to the valve cover keeps the scrapings from falling into the head.
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Unread 04-26-2011, 09:47 PM   #13
Bonehead13
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Abernut,
Did you have a lot of vacum lines and modules attached to the top of your old valve cover? If so how did you reroute them?
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Unread 04-27-2011, 06:16 AM   #14
abernut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonehead13 View Post
Abernut,
Did you have a lot of vacum lines and modules attached to the top of your old valve cover? If so how did you reroute them?
Here's what it looked like before I completed the Nutter Bypass and replaced the valve cover


In my case there were a lot of lines missing, nothing plugged, etc.

There is a very good write up on one of how I routed my lines after I Nuttered it
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/va...ypass-1047507/
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Unread 04-27-2011, 08:31 AM   #15
Bonehead13
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Thank you for the help! very helpful!
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