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Unread 03-07-2012, 03:49 PM   #1
way_of_life
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Alternative shifters for quadratrac lockup

As everybody who has had to deal with quadratrac quirks knows, the vacuum diaphragm shifter for emergency drive / transfer case lockup is engine vacuum powered, and the switch is in the glove box, all of which tends to rot away and/or stop functioning.

My shifter diaphragm has been dismantled by a previous owner- the internal shaft is intact, and the outside end is welded to the side of a nut, so it can now be used a an eyelet for a new style of shifter (although nothing is in place)

The issue is that I need other options for how to shift in and out reliably. The options I have come up with are as follows, including potential issues. If you have ideas to build on mine or new ideas altogether, please add on to this.

1--- Electric actuator
companies such as grainger and mcmaster carr have actuators for relatively cheap, and could be mounted on flat portion of the case just behind the entry hole for the shaft with a lever, and then just add a switch on the dash for it.
Down side- that area is exposed to water, mud, salt, etc and would be bad for a touchy little actuator wires could be pulled by roots/other obtsacles (although unlikely considering location

2---cable shifter
using something like a tranmission shifter cable like b&m sells for the th400, and a lever to transfer down to the shaft
down side- what to use at the other end-- possible fabricate an entire shifter lever assembly?

3--- revert to original
this is not an option as far as I'm concerned, however some of you may consider this as an option for your self. it will work, parts are pre-made and available pretty cheap.
down side- vacuum lines are in danger of trail obstacles or could rot away, it is a bad idea to run vacuum all over the place (more possibility for leaks)

Anybody with ideas let me know!





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Unread 03-07-2012, 04:13 PM   #2
skizriz
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Drill a hole in the floor, and hook the nut with a welding rod. LOL

I've thought of replacing mine with a simple manual type choke cable.
It doesn't take much pressure to shift it, and it not something that is used on a daily basis. It simple,effective,and low maintenence. All you would need to do is fab a bracket near the actuator to hold/clamp the cable in place.
You could even go with one of the bigger manual throttle controls you see in bigger diesel work trucks.

I think the BM type shifter would be way overkill.It would look nice,but way more than needed.

I agree with the electric being high maintenence.

Getting the original working again was the route I took.
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Unread 03-07-2012, 04:14 PM   #3
JeepHammer
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Morse cable, push/pull locking knob. Like they use for throttle on small aircraft.
Works great.

I drill a hole in the end of the can,
I use a 20 cent 'Nut Sert' or 'Riv-Nut (threaded inserts for thin metal) and epoxy it to the shaft where it sticks tough the diaphram,

Then i use a metal collar as a cable stop, connect cable to 'Nut Sert' (Cables made with threaded ends) and use the collar on the outside of the can for a cable stop.

Since I didn't weld to the rod, the diaphragm is still intact and keeps moisture out of the shaft assembly,
And I have several years on mine, with no signs the JB Weld is letting go anytime soon,
No welding involved that way...

Look at the one on the left, with the button in the middle,

http://www.madisonpowersystems.com/1...s/throttle.htm
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Unread 03-07-2012, 05:06 PM   #4
papa355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
Morse cable, push/pull locking knob. Like they use for throttle on small aircraft.
Works great.

I drill a hole in the end of the can,
I use a 20 cent 'Nut Sert' or 'Riv-Nut (threaded inserts for thin metal) and epoxy it to the shaft where it sticks tough the diaphram,

Then i use a metal collar as a cable stop, connect cable to 'Nut Sert' (Cables made with threaded ends) and use the collar on the outside of the can for a cable stop.

Since I didn't weld to the rod, the diaphragm is still intact and keeps moisture out of the shaft assembly,
And I have several years on mine, with no signs the JB Weld is letting go anytime soon,
No welding involved that way...

Look at the one on the left, with the button in the middle,

http://www.madisonpowersystems.com/1...s/throttle.htm


guess I could do something like that for my low range shifter, huh? I have one of those shifter cables at the shop.
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Unread 02-05-2013, 01:11 PM   #5
flboy0638
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someone take a picture or two if they have completed the fabrication to an end. Where is your hole in the cab at, what pull mechanism did you use, what does your bracket look like and where did you weld it underneath.
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Unread 02-05-2013, 01:12 PM   #6
flboy0638
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just out of curiousity. could you put your hand on the diaphram actuator in a stock setup and pull it aft into emergency drive? Assuming your truck was on a lift as I hear you have to be rolling a little bit and in nuetral
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Unread 02-05-2013, 03:43 PM   #7
lucdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flboy0638
just out of curiousity. could you put your hand on the diaphram actuator in a stock setup and pull it aft into emergency drive?
No, you can't

Bill
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Unread 02-05-2013, 04:36 PM   #8
way_of_life
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I just roll it around in the driveway to get it to shift, and there is plenty of room underneath to push it around and push the shifter from laying on the ground.

I still haven't done anything about it, but I probably will in spring, now that my t case is rebuilt and worthy of some work

My intent is to build a bracket off of the steel plate above the shifter outlet, and I'll probably actuate it electronically.

If you were to use a cable, you would have to use something sturdy, like a b&m shifter cable for a transmission, which I am still considering. I would cut the hole in the trans tunnel next to the hi/low shifter lever, probably in a plunger up/down configuration.


Anything but vacuum would be an upgrade from stock, and you could easily manipulate the shaft from the stock vacuum shifter to be driven by other means.


I'll try to draw something up to sore what i'm planning
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