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07-15-2012, 12:36 PM
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#61
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D-adams-nv(nevada)
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Sun Valley, NV
Posts: 2,432
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07-16-2012, 08:04 AM
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#62
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TgillyCustomFabworks
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Wellsville, Kansas
Posts: 3,927
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I'm getting a sand blaster a big compressor so I can do my frame and body. And all the painting.
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07-16-2012, 09:50 AM
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#63
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D-adams-nv(nevada)
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Sun Valley, NV
Posts: 2,432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8pitcher
I'm getting a sand blaster a big compressor so I can do my frame and body. And all the painting.
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You should for sure get a compressor that can run %100 duty cycle and run 12 or better CFM. Expensive, but you can blast all day and paint all day without giving the compressor a break. I have a craftsman 30 gal. and I have to stop and let it rest all the time, and the CFM is too low to paint a whole lot.
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07-16-2012, 09:59 AM
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#64
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TgillyCustomFabworks
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Wellsville, Kansas
Posts: 3,927
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Dadamsnv
You should for sure get a compressor that can run %100 duty cycle and run 12 or better CFM. Expensive, but you can blast all day and paint all day without giving the compressor a break. I have a craftsman 30 gal. and I have to stop and let it rest all the time, and the CFM is too low to paint a whole lot.
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I found an 80gal on CL And got a sandblasted for 30 bucks.
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07-16-2012, 10:09 AM
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#65
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D-adams-nv(nevada)
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Sun Valley, NV
Posts: 2,432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8pitcher
I found an 80gal on CL And got a sandblasted for 30 bucks.
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NICE
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07-16-2012, 10:30 AM
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#66
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TgillyCustomFabworks
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Wellsville, Kansas
Posts: 3,927
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Dadamsnv
NICE 
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It will be. I hope it's cheap enough.
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07-16-2012, 12:54 PM
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#67
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TgillyCustomFabworks
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Wellsville, Kansas
Posts: 3,927
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Got a 30 gal for 100$ and sandblasted for 30$
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07-16-2012, 02:06 PM
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#68
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D-adams-nv(nevada)
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Sun Valley, NV
Posts: 2,432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8pitcher
Got a 30 gal for 100$ and sandblasted for 30$
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Pretty good deal man! Just watch the duty cycle on that compressor. Don't want to blow her up
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07-16-2012, 02:54 PM
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#69
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TgillyCustomFabworks
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Wellsville, Kansas
Posts: 3,927
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Dadamsnv
Pretty good deal man! Just watch the duty cycle on that compressor. Don't want to blow her up 
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Ya your right. I'm going to do all the sandblasting myself which will be awesome.
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07-19-2012, 12:18 PM
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#70
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D-adams-nv(nevada)
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Sun Valley, NV
Posts: 2,432
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I am waiting for AMC blue metallic engine paint from seymore so I can finish the oil pan, but in the meantime, I figured I'd fix the expansion plug leak above the crank on the back of the motor, and replace my pilot bushing. I'm actually lucky that I pulled all the drivetrain apart to seal and paint everything. without doing that, I would have never found that expansion plug leak and would have taken it as a bad new rear main over and over again.
I washed the block with that gunk gel engine cleaner and when it was dry, I could see brown sealer around the plug, and a moist trail of oil heading for the rear main. I had to tap the sealer with a hammer to break it off of the block. Upon inserting the new plug I pushed one side of the new plug in too far for my liking (thought it may contact the cam (not good), so I pulled the new plug back out and trashed it. Off to Summit for another plug set (only way I can get the one plug I need). The second one went in perfect, I used a thin film of RTV in the plug's hole to help seal against remaining brown sealer bits and scratches I may have missed.
I used the grease pack technique I've seen used on this forum to remove the pilot bushing, and it worked great! The new bushing went in really tight! That'll be fun to remove if I have to later.
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07-20-2012, 12:36 AM
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#71
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TgillyCustomFabworks
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Wellsville, Kansas
Posts: 3,927
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Dadamsnv
I am waiting for AMC blue metallic engine paint from seymore so I can finish the oil pan, but in the meantime, I figured I'd fix the expansion plug leak above the crank on the back of the motor, and replace my pilot bushing. I'm actually lucky that I pulled all the drivetrain apart to seal and paint everything. without doing that, I would have never found that expansion plug leak and would have taken it as a bad new rear main over and over again.
I washed the block with that gunk gel engine cleaner and when it was dry, I could see brown sealer around the plug, and a moist trail of oil heading for the rear main. I had to tap the sealer with a hammer to break it off of the block. Upon inserting the new plug I pushed one side of the new plug in too far for my liking (thought it may contact the cam (not good), so I pulled the new plug back out and trashed it. Off to Summit for another plug set (only way I can get the one plug I need). The second one went in perfect, I used a thin film of RTV in the plug's hole to help seal against remaining brown sealer bits and scratches I may have missed.
I used the grease pack technique I've seen used on this forum to remove the pilot bushing, and it worked great! The new bushing went in really tight! That'll be fun to remove if I have to later.
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Is seymore the company you bought the paint from?
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07-20-2012, 09:40 AM
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#72
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D-adams-nv(nevada)
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Sun Valley, NV
Posts: 2,432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8pitcher
Is seymore the company you bought the paint from?
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No, I used Levineautoparts.com, they were almost half the price of most stores, and I couldn't find it locally.
Here's a link to the paint, just click AMC metallic blue. The part # is EN-66
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07-20-2012, 09:44 AM
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#73
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TgillyCustomFabworks
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Wellsville, Kansas
Posts: 3,927
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Dadamsnv
No, I used Levineautoparts.com, they were almost half the price of most stores, and I couldn't find it locally.
Here's a link to the paint, just click AMC metallic blue. The part # is EN-66
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Thanks a lot. Post pics when painted and how you did it so I can myself when it comes time.
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07-20-2012, 10:12 AM
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#74
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D-adams-nv(nevada)
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Sun Valley, NV
Posts: 2,432
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I just got the pan painted, I really like the hue, but it is a little lighter than I thought it was going to be. I had primed the pan about a week ago, so all I had to do was spray. I used four light coats. The can said light coats tend to look better, so I sprayed them all pretty light, but I also sprayed my new water neck, and I used one light coat and two heavy coats, and it came out way less rough and looks better in my opinion. So my advice is use one or two light coats followed by a final heavy coat. I also cleaned and painted my front driveline.
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07-20-2012, 11:36 AM
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#75
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TgillyCustomFabworks
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Wellsville, Kansas
Posts: 3,927
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Dadamsnv
I just got the pan painted, I really like the hue, but it is a little lighter than I thought it was going to be. I had primed the pan about a week ago, so all I had to do was spray. I used four light coats. The can said light coats tend to look better, so I sprayed them all pretty light, but I also sprayed my new water neck, and I used one light coat and two heavy coats, and it came out way less rough and looks better in my opinion. So my advice is use one or two light coats followed by a final heavy coat. I also cleaned and painted my front driveline.
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Are you not worrying about getting paint inside the pan?
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