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Unread 06-21-2012, 11:48 PM   #31
Dadamsnv
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Thanks Hutch

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Unread 06-22-2012, 12:13 AM   #32
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Still waiting for axles, and now seat brackets. So I put in a cool new Holley choke cable. While I was playing with the choke linkage, I noticed fuel leaking from my base plate, so I went to summit (I have one local) and bout a renew kit. I also bought a new baseplate assembly on eBay. I figured since the carb had to come apart, I'd also clean out all the black crap and rebuild it. When I took the carb off of the manifold, I saw a cool little air gap in my adapter gasket. I did some research into the goofy spreadbore manifold to find its from an AMC 360 with an MC 2100 pattern. I have a Holley two barrel, and no adapter exists for these two. Now I have to think about How I'm going to fix this. New carb or new manifold.

I also painted my rear drive shaft and cleaned and greased my u joints. I also painted my trucks Dana 44 and Chrysler 9.25 diff covers since it was time for a fluid change. I used VHT chassis and roll bar paint. They say spray it on bare metal, so I did and it seems pretty tough.
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Unread 06-23-2012, 10:36 AM   #33
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I got my seat brackets in the mail so I pulled the brackets from the boxes and checked them for damage. Both boxes were heavily damaged in transit, but the brackets seem okay. I bolted the seats onto the brackets and threw the assemblies into the jeep. With the seats basically all the way forward on the sliding brackets, I was able to get the brackets to sit flat on the floor. It took a WHOLE lot of bending to get the holes to line up on my tub. I'm not 100%sure if it's a stock tub, but it's steel and has the "Jeep" stamped on the side. Of course the brackets are powder coated, and of course it chipped during the bending, but I'll paint them when I do the body. I tried them out and it's a pretty tight fit. My knees are pretty close to the dash with them seats as far back as they would go. It looks like I'll be notching my wheel wells in the near future.

I also got my ARB fill up kit installed. It filled up my 31" tire from 8 to 30 psi in a little over 1 minute. And I left it all assembled (hose and chuck too) and pressurized it. I came back same time next day to find it only lost 6 psi. Awesome

Edit: sorry for the dark pics
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Unread 06-29-2012, 02:06 PM   #34
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Axles finally came in 3.5 weeks later. They are the Ten Factory axles. I know a lot of guys on here like the superior or moser axles, but I like the warranty and reviews on the Tens, so I went with them. Putting them together is pretty simple if you have a shop press. I've rebuilt several axles and diffs, and this is pretty easy stuff. The hardest part is maneuvering the axle in the shop press while you have the drum backing plate, outer seal and seal guard on the axle. Its like handling a 50 lb drumstick (like the chicken kind). I will say the only thing I didn't like about the TenFactory axles was how tight the press fit on the bearings and retainers was. I've pushed a ton of bearings, but these were way tighter than any I've dealt with. A six ton press wouldn't have been able to do it.

The PO screwed up my driver side axle tube with a pry bar trying to remove the seal, and that is why there was so much gear oil in my drum brake. The two little snake bites tore the new seal up when he re-installed it. I simply took my dremel with a grinder bit and ground at them until they were flush with the tube. Then I used the wire brush the smooth the grind spot down. It left two little holes, but I smeared a thin silicon film in the tube on the seal bore before I pushed it in, so it should hold fine.

Also, I needed a .030" shim on the passenger side, and the driveline shop in town told me they are impossible to find in town, and they need to be ordered. They also told me they make their own! So I, not wanting to wait another eternity, made my own as well. I bought a piece of 16 ga. steel (I think it was 16, all I know is it was like .031"). Traced my old .060" shim that came off the axle, cut it out with tin snips, drilled the little holes, jigsaw cut the big hole, straightened, and deburred it. It took 1.5 hours, but it came out really well. I got a little crazy with the jigsaw in one spot, but it'll work. All in all, the axles were pretty easy to install, and they look awesome too with the black oxide coating and metal colored sticker in the center.
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Unread 06-29-2012, 10:53 PM   #35
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Lookin good.
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1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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Unread 07-03-2012, 05:45 PM   #36
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So I had a dilemma with my intake manifold, as can be seen in a previous post. I had a spread bore motorcraft AMC 360 manifold on my 304 with a Holley 2 bbl carb. This would all be dandy if I didn't have a huge air leak because of the oddball fit of the motorcraft carb. It turns out there is no existing adapter for the carb and manifold, so I had to buy either a new manifold, or a new carb to get a good fit. I've heard good things about the Holley, so I ditched the 360 manifold (a giant, inefficient clunking piece of cast iron) for an edelbrock performer intake, which almost everyone loves.

NOTE: THE INSTRUCTIONS WITH THE INTAKE STATE YOU NEED TO USE BOTH A NEW VALLEY PAN GASKET AND THE EDELBROCK INTAKE GASKETS TO INSTALL THE MANIFOLD. THIS IS CONFIRMED INCORRECT BY EDELBROCK! ONLY USE THE VALLEY PAN GASKET OR IT WILL NOT FIT ON YOUR 304!

Ask how I know.

So after scraping silicon off my block and heads for the second time, I got the manifold to fit perfectly. WOW what a difference! Especially off idle. The torque is great. I also have headers, so that helps. Here are some pics.
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Unread 07-03-2012, 05:53 PM   #37
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Would you recommend me getting an edelbrock intake over the original 304 intake?
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Built Not Bought #640[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR][/CENTER][/COLOR]

1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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Unread 07-03-2012, 08:15 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8pitcher
Would you recommend me getting an edelbrock intake over the original 304 intake?
If the 304 intake is free, that'll work fine, but the edelbrock is awesome and only weighs like 15 pounds, the 304 weighs seriously 50 or more pounds!

What carb are you going to run? If its not a spreadbore motorcraft, the edelbrock is the way to go. But maybe they make an adapter for that carb to square bore, check it out because that intake is great.
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Unread 07-03-2012, 10:14 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dadamsnv

If the 304 intake is free, that'll work fine, but the edelbrock is awesome and only weighs like 15 pounds, the 304 weighs seriously 50 or more pounds!

What carb are you going to run? If its not a spreadbore motorcraft, the edelbrock is the way to go. But maybe they make an adapter for that carb to square bore, check it out because that intake is great.
The carb is the stock motor craft one.
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Built Not Bought #640[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR][/CENTER][/COLOR]

1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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Unread 07-03-2012, 10:43 PM   #40
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Did your intake come w/a 2"x4" plate that mounts under your PCV? My builder didn't install it. I just found it on the box of parts I didn't use. Like new rockers cuz I went roller, the too short pushrods for my cam etc..
I'm wondering if I'm gonna have an oil gusher!
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Unread 07-04-2012, 12:04 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hutch1200
Did your intake come w/a 2"x4" plate that mounts under your PCV? My builder didn't install it. I just found it on the box of parts I didn't use. Like new rockers cuz I went roller, the too short pushrods for my cam etc..
I'm wondering if I'm gonna have an oil gusher!
Hmm... I only had to use the large, more like 5"x8" pan that blocks the PCV system from oil splash. If thats what you mean, Edelbrock states that it is necessary and not having it will cause oil/PCV problems, but they may be covering their asses. Edelbrock DID NOT include it. I had to use the stock one off my 360 intake. The biggest issue would be all the oil gumming up your carb and intake, if you have the PCV hooked to the carb.
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Unread 07-07-2012, 01:05 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8pitcher

The carb is the stock motor craft one.
Check for a spread bore motorcraft to square bore intake. You may be able to find one. Otherwise you'd have to get a different carb to run the edelbrock intake
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Unread 07-07-2012, 01:08 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dadamsnv

Check for a spread bore motorcraft to square bore intake. You may be able to find one. Otherwise you'd have to get a different carb to run the edelbrock intake
Ok I will check that later today. Thanks.
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Built Not Bought #640[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR][/CENTER][/COLOR]

1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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Unread 07-07-2012, 01:26 AM   #44
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With the carb rebuilt, the intake bolted in, and the silicon cured, it was time to warm her up and tune her. So I turned the motor over a couple times and nothing. I wasn't surprised because I put in a clear fuel line to the carb and it stayed bone dry. I turned it over again and it just clicked and stopped, so I tried again and held it. This is when is saw SMOKE pouring out of the engine compartment! So I took the keys out and ran around expecting a small fire. Luckily there was no fire, and the smoke was coming from my choke cable. I figured this meant an accessory wire was bare and touching the choke under the dash. I took a peek under the dash (which is a hard feat as you all know) and saw nothing. I felt the choke cable and it was cold up tithe firewall where it go quite warm. So I went to the battery and wiggled the ground cable. It pulled out of the clamp in my hand. Problem identified! Since there was no motor ground, the starter motor attempted to travel through my chassis ground through the choke cable where it is grometted on the fire wall, which heated it up tremendously. At least my brand new Holley choke cable still works.

The clamp broke when I true to reinstall the ground. So I went to autozone and got a new one. Once that was all figured out, i tried to pull some fuel up the fuel line with a syringe, an found the tank to be empty, I guess a lot of fuel evaporated through my open disconnected fuel line. So off again to town for gas. Once I got home, I filled the tank, pulled some fuel up the line, pumped that fuel into the float bowl, and fires her up. At first she barely ran at all, but my vacuum gauge was steady (good sign). So I ran through JeepHammer's tuning procedure and she was purring like a kitten in no time. I even adjusted the timing using the gauge. I advanced it until it stopped increasing the vac, then retarded it by 1 inch HG. I was able to get 17 inches HG out of her on idle (I'm at 5000 ft elevation so it would be 22 in HG) at sea level. Which is a good vac! Also the needle was rock solid steady indicating a healthy motor I then cruised around town and registered her the next day.

Now we are caught up to the first post.
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Unread 07-07-2012, 01:32 AM   #45
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How did you find tuning steps? I'm rebuilding my 304 as you know and I will need those eventually.
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Built Not Bought #640[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR][/CENTER][/COLOR]

1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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