She's almost together, and she's looking really good! The timing cover is in, water pump is in, and the alternator. I went to put the harmonic balancer on, and she didn't want to go enough to get the bolt in, so I tapped on it a bit with no success. I didn't want to hit it hard lest I destroy the mains or the rod bearings. I pulled it off, heated it up to about 200 degrees, and still nothing.
So to town again to get longer bolts to start the press on process.
I got the whole front end of the motor put together now. I primed the oil pump, aligned the dizzy and got it roughly timed by eye. I've got oil in the pan. It's all ready to fire after I go buy another gallon of coolant tomorrow. It's only been down a week and I'm super stoked to drive it tomorrow!
Today was a CRAP day! I was supposed to add coolant, and go driving, but NOOOO!
1st the jeep started but slowly died. I tried different base timings, but nothing worked. I watched the oil pressure while it was slowly running all crappy, and it was pinned passed 100 PSI. I tried to turn the motor by hand, and it was very tough to turn. So I did a bunch or research, and it looks like most of the time, high/pinned oil pressure means a bad/stuck oil bypass plunger. So I tried to pull out the plunger, and of course, It didn't want to come out. So I took JeepHammers advice and tried to crank the motor to blow the plunger out. No dice. Next I dismantled the oil pump, hooked up the air compressor to it, and tried to blow it out. No dice. So I heated it up to where I could barely hold onto it, and tried to blow it out again. No dice. Last ditch, I banged that piece of **** on a piece of aluminum. It finally popped it out, so I kicked that stupid ***** into the corner and I will leave it there forever. I put the oil pump back together with the old plunger and spring. Primed the pump and went to start it.
The jeep wouldn't start, just pops and snaps. After more research, I found the dizzy was 180 out, so I fixed that, and she started right up. I went to set the base timing with the vac gauge cause it was handy, and got her set. I double checked it with the timing light, and it was 18* SOB!!! I turned it to 12* any way, AND the oil pressure was STILL 100 PSI!! But it dropped slowly to 75, and eventually after driving it around forever, it settled in at 25 PSI. But went up to 90 PSI at 55 MPH.
Also, the front of the motor was whining like crazy. I used the screwdriver in the ear trick, and all noises pointed to the alternator, so I went to summit and got a shiny black and chrome alternator, put it in after decoding what R and F mean and what to do with my wires. Still whines! I loosened the power steering to where it barely grabbed, then loosened the alternator, and the noise only quit when the belt was almost falling off the alternator. I guess its the water pump
It also had a mean stumble at 800 RPM, but that was much better at the end of my little drive.
So I traded my little bit leaky jeep, for one with a crap oil pump, bad alternator, and bad water pump. SUPER DAY!!
Now that I'm done being pissed, is there some kind of break in period on these oil pumps? Will the pressure go down eventually? Is the high pressure bad for the workings? When I said I wanted higher oil pressure, I guess I should've specified I wanted healthier oil pressure
Also, the alternator bearing was a little sticky when I pulled it, so I needed one anyway, but all I did was paint the water pump, that shouldn't make it howl like a money consuming wolf! The worst part is I wanted to replace water pump, but summit was out of all seven types of pump at that moment. Life sucks today! Damnit!
If you recall, I wanted to build this jeep up in three stages
1. Safety and functionality
2. Off road capability
So far, after $3500 initial purchase and probably $3000 invested, I still have a jeep that doesn't function properly, and still doesn't have all the safety stuff I want. I guess I should have seen this coming since it seemed to happen to everyone else.
I still have to go through the mechanical portion of the brakes, tear the D30 apart and replace the leaky seals and bad U joints, replace the ball joints and attempt to align it properly, replace all four bent shackle hangers, install a new wiper motor and make sure that all works, install an entire wiper fluid system, cut my fender wells to fit the new seats, install the four point harnesses, and replace some redneck dash wiring.
now, because of whatever reason, I need to add a water pump to this list, and possibly a change back to my old oil pump.
After doing some research, I've found a couple different cases where Rotella 15w-40 is thick enough to pin out pressure gauges on startup. In these cases, the oil pressure performs in almost the exact same way as mine is currently performing. Given this information, I will conclude that the new pump, along with the proper clearancing, is much more efficient than the old pump, which is why my oil pressure is so much higher (not pinning out like before, but excessively high). I will drain out my brand new $25 worth of Rotella into a clean container and salvage what i can.
As for what I'm going to put in it now, I read this entire article on engine oil, and I'm feeling 1000 times smarter when it comes to oiling. From this article I feel like I should try a full synthetic 0W-30 and see where I stand. To summarize why I'm choosing this oil, all engine oils are too thick at a cold startup to be useful to your motor. This is why %90 of engine wear happens at startup. The first number on the oil bottle (ie. xxw-30) relates to the viscosity at lower temps. The lower the viscostiy, the sooner your engine is able to use the oil to lubricate the motor, the less wear you have. The second number on the bottle (ow-xx) relates to the viscosity of the oil at operating temps. Almost all oils have the same viscosity at operating temps, so there is very little reason to use a more viscus (thicker) oil other than to build oil pressure. What you are shooting for is whatever combination gets you as close to 10 PSI per 1000 RPM as possible at operating temp. Also, a full synthetic tends to get less thick during cold temps than dino oil, so that means less motor wear. Since I'm using a 15w-40 right now, and experiencing 25 PSI at idle during operating temps, I need to drop the second number a bit, I'll try 30. And after reading this article, I am going to try a 0 for the first number to get that oil working faster to protect my old *** motor.
The best way to figure out what viscosity of oil you need is to drive the car in the conditions you will use. Then use the oil viscosity that gives you 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM under those circumstances. For some reason very few people are able to get this simple principal correct. I cannot explain further.
These same rules apply to engines of any age, loose or tight. Just because your engine is old does not mean it needs a thicker oil. It will need a thicker oil only if it is overly worn, whether new or old. Yet the same principals of 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM still apply. In all cases you need to try different grade oils and see what happens. Then choose the correct viscosity.
I used 0W-20 in my Ferrari 575 Maranello. It had over 5,000 miles on the clock. There will be a day (my estimate is 50,000 miles) when one will have to go to a 0W-30. In the future one will have to increase the viscosity to a 0W-40, then a 0W-50, maybe. You should use whatever it takes to get 75 PSI at 6,000 RPM during the lifetime of the engine. This formula works in all situations.
Last night sucked too. My electrical oil gauge crapped out. I'm trying to find an oil that will work with my new, toleranced oil pump, and this means I need to use the oil gauge to make sure any new oil I try will run at a reasonable pressure through my new pump. I'm pretty fried about this mess-up right now. I can handle high oil pressure, but the stuck bypass plunger and possible timing chain stretching really get me.
So I was off to Summit again to buy a mechanical oil gauge. I figured a mechanical gauge would be an upgrade someday, but since I need it, its an upgrade now. I've been there 5 days in a row and twice yesterday by the way. The hookup of the mechanical gauge went swimmingly. I overtightened one of the brass fittings and it kinked the squish cap a little, but I can find one of those practically anywhere. It holds oil great despite the kinky cap. I fired her up (she fires instantly and runs great now that the new bypass is in BTW) and the gauge went to 80 PSI. The bypass plunger is said to open at 80 PSI, and this is where the pressure hovered for about 30 seconds. After that, the pressure slowly dropped to 30 PSI over the ten minutes I spend fiddling with my new new alternator (I thought the new alternator was whining too, so I swapped it at summit).
Even with this new alternator, shes still howling, and I feel bad for swapping them for no reason . I used a funnel as a sound pin pointer (put the big end up to your ear and point the little end at stuff). I read this trick online yesterday. Despite what my ears (without funnel) told me, and despite what the screwdriver in the ear told me. The funnel did indeed point to the water pump, as I figured since she still make noise with the new alternator. The entire city is out of aluminum water pumps, so I had to buy a cast iron one from Napa, which means I will have to paint it before I put it on
I sure hope that the timing cover to block seal doesn't break while I'm removing the water pump tonight *fingers crossed*
My hardest decision is do I paint it AMC blue like the last one? Or do I paint it black to match the alt and the PS pump?