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ECGS Black Friday Sale!!6th Annual, Beat Your Wife to the Credit Card Sale!50 in light bar /A pillar mount less than 500 at JeepHut.c

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Unread 10-12-2013, 10:44 PM   #46
Chewtoy
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that is a cool setup. looking forward to following along with this one.

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Unread 10-12-2013, 11:16 PM   #47
Chewtoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AcidLamp View Post
Okay, Time ID the mystery equipment. If these pics aren't helpful, then just tell me what you need to see, I'll take them. Here we have suspension (front right), Suspension Front, Transmission, and Wheels.
Ok from what I can see you have a front sway bar that helps with on road handling but will restrict off road flex. It is the bar that attaches to the front of your spring pads and arches up to your frame.

I think you have some lift because your drag link and tie rod are not parallel. Tie rod ties your wheels together and the drag link attaches to your steering box. How long are your front shackles?

You also have an after market steering box stabilizer that is the bar between your frame and your steering box. It helps keep your steering box in place and is a good thing.

The part that worries me a bit is the "Billy Bob" engineering that went into the shock mount extension. More precisely, it appears that the PO used that roughly welded shock bracket as an engine mount. I would run that by a good fab shop and see what they think. Looks to me like a couple good bounces and the engine would pop that bracket right off the frame and dump the engine on your front axle.

Just my 2 cents.
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Unread 10-13-2013, 06:52 AM   #48
AcidLamp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chewtoy View Post
Ok from what I can see you have a front sway bar that helps with on road handling but will restrict off road flex. It is the bar that attaches to the front of your spring pads and arches up to your frame.

I think you have some lift because your drag link and tie rod are not parallel. Tie rod ties your wheels together and the drag link attaches to your steering box. How long are your front shackles?

You also have an after market steering box stabilizer that is the bar between your frame and your steering box. It helps keep your steering box in place and is a good thing.

The part that worries me a bit is the "Billy Bob" engineering that went into the shock mount extension. More precisely, it appears that the PO used that roughly welded shock bracket as an engine mount. I would run that by a good fab shop and see what they think. Looks to me like a couple good bounces and the engine would pop that bracket right off the frame and dump the engine on your front axle.

Just my 2 cents.
Sweet, thank you SO much. This exactly the type of help I need. I've had it by a 4x4 specialist mechanic down here, and they did't find anything overly worrying but it's always possible they missed that. I"ll add it to the list of things to look into. I do have a 2.5" body lift. I've noticed that ride is very, very stiff; is that the effect of the sway bar? Should it be removed for serious off roading, or is it only a concern if I'd be crawling around on major obstacles?
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Unread 10-13-2013, 07:18 AM   #49
Matt1981CJ7
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Most likely it's the lift springs that are causing the stiff ride, not the sway bar.

Some guys remove their sway bars, or have quick-disconnects, for serious wheeling to increase the amount of flex in the suspension. I've never found a need to do that. The sway bar improves handling on pavement, however, so I wouldn't remove it permanently, if I were you.

I'm with Chew on the Bubba-fied shock/engine mounts. That doesn't look safe to me, at all. I would look into engine mounts that attach to the frame, as they are suppose to.

Matt
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Unread 10-13-2013, 07:33 AM   #50
CJ7ROB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AcidLamp View Post
For the door panels I cut a piece of hardboard and attached it with spray adhesive. I had already laid a layer of foil backed insulation onto the floor pans and body, so I simply sprayed both sides of the insulation and the back of the fabric and bonded it into place. It's easy to do, but it takes some planning in terms of cutting and shaping the pieces.
You realize your missing the sheet metal piece that covers up the door latch mechanism area on the inside of the door right? Its a cool fabric, did you purposely cut it short though? I think an old door panel would have made a nice template to go by.
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Unread 10-13-2013, 09:31 AM   #51
AcidLamp
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You realize your missing the sheet metal piece that covers up the door latch mechanism area on the inside of the door right? Its a cool fabric, did you purposely cut it short though? I think an old door panel would have made a nice template to go by.
I've got them, but they are off because I'm still working on some interior parts. When I need to access the area I just unscrew the panel. I cut it short to leave room for trim later. I've got a lot of fit issues with the doors, so I need room for adjustments and finish trim as I work through the guts of them.
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Unread 10-13-2013, 09:34 AM   #52
AcidLamp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Most likely it's the lift springs that are causing the stiff ride, not the sway bar.

Some guys remove their sway bars, or have quick-disconnects, for serious wheeling to increase the amount of flex in the suspension. I've never found a need to do that. The sway bar improves handling on pavement, however, so I wouldn't remove it permanently, if I were you.

I'm with Chew on the Bubba-fied shock/engine mounts. That doesn't look safe to me, at all. I would look into engine mounts that attach to the frame, as they are suppose to.

Matt
Good info, thanks. I'll take a look at the springs and see if there is a softer set, it handles well loaded down, but empty is quite stiff.
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Unread 10-13-2013, 09:40 AM   #53
AcidLamp
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Guys, I think my photo was misleading. The motor mounts are behind that piece that connects the frame to the shock. It is a separate mount, and bolted through the frame. Looks proper. unless I'm missing something, always a possibility.
img_1524.jpg  
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Unread 10-13-2013, 01:49 PM   #54
Chewtoy
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Originally Posted by AcidLamp View Post
Guys, I think my photo was misleading. The motor mounts are behind that piece that connects the frame to the shock. It is a separate mount, and bolted through the frame. Looks proper. unless I'm missing something, always a possibility.
You are right. The first pic looks like some sort of mount is coming off the shock mount and upon closer inspection it is the header behind the mount... sorry about that.

For the sway bar, Matt's right. If all your doing is fire roads and logging trails and building a hunting camping rig, leave it on there. Maybe invest in some quick disconnects in the future.

You mention a 2.5" body lift. The general consensus on the board is 'no more than a 1" body lift" to keep your center of gravity (COG) down. I am not a big fan of body lifts at all, I prefer to keep my lift in the suspension and or do some trimming to fit tires, but that is my humble opinion.

I don't know what kind of springs you have on there now but I am guessing they are either original stock or a low end "rough country" kind of spring just because they are freaking thick springs which is what is giving you the rough ride empty and softer ride loaded up. I would call BDS, RE (Rubicon Express) and OME (Old Man Emu) and see what they suggest for your rig as you seem to change from light to heavy load regularly.
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Unread 10-13-2013, 02:44 PM   #55
AcidLamp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chewtoy View Post
You are right. The first pic looks like some sort of mount is coming off the shock mount and upon closer inspection it is the header behind the mount... sorry about that.
No problem! I would rather have a thousand oopses then one missed critical error. Particularly one that could leave me stranded in a bad way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chewtoy View Post
For the sway bar, Matt's right. If all your doing is fire roads and logging trails and building a hunting camping rig, leave it on there. Maybe invest in some quick disconnects in the future.
Will do.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Chewtoy View Post
You mention a 2.5" body lift. The general consensus on the board is 'no more than a 1" body lift" to keep your center of gravity (COG) down. I am not a big fan of body lifts at all, I prefer to keep my lift in the suspension and or do some trimming to fit tires, but that is my humble opinion.
(shrugs) Blame the PO. Everything handles well, even with a loaded hardtop, so for now I'm not stressing it; though I'll bear it in mind should the angles get squirrelly out on the trails. it also might be a 2.5 total lift, so I may have that wrong. The paperwork that came with the rig was very spotty. I"m looking up some local jeep meetups so I can get some opinions in person, so hopefully I'll be able to report back with better info in the future.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chewtoy View Post
I don't know what kind of springs you have on there now but I am guessing they are either original stock or a low end "rough country" kind of spring just because they are freaking thick springs which is what is giving you the rough ride empty and softer ride loaded up. I would call BDS, RE (Rubicon Express) and OME (Old Man Emu) and see what they suggest for your rig as you seem to change from light to heavy load regularly.
Will do.
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Unread 10-17-2013, 03:43 PM   #56
AcidLamp
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Okay, today I built and installed a snorkel mount/ ram air intake. Since I'm running an old carb style Chevy 305, and don't have the airbox, it should help with engine temp and performance. It did. My God, it did. My normal running temp in Florida on the highway is 200 or so. It now runs at a cool 180 and didn't budge, even when I turned off the overdrive and got on it. Additionally, the engine seems to have to work a lot less than it was before. Pretty easy really, and i can reverse the position for snorkel mount when it's time for adventuring.
img_1539.jpg   img_1542.jpg  
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Unread 10-17-2013, 05:16 PM   #57
Matt1981CJ7
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I'm wondering why you didn't use the factory intake hole on the grill instead of cutting your hood?

Matt
radiator1.jpg  
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Unread 10-17-2013, 06:00 PM   #58
AcidLamp
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Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I'm wondering why you didn't use the factory intake hole on the grill instead of cutting your hood?

Matt
A couple of reasons; I don't have those cutouts on my grill, and the PO had the intake routed behind the headlight. I didn't like the performance I was getting there anyway. By shortening the distance I get a lot better airflow. There's a reason you see so many street rods without hood or bonnets. Additionally, I made the mount so it can be reversed for snorkel. You undo the retaining band, and turn it over to face the windscreen. Snap in the snorkel and you are good to go.
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Unread 10-17-2013, 06:10 PM   #59
Matt1981CJ7
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Hmm...I wasn't aware that the grill design changed from 1981 to 1984.

Here's a little tip. If you get into water deep enough to suck thru your air cleaner, that snorkel isn't going to help you much.

To each his own.....

Matt
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Unread 10-17-2013, 07:40 PM   #60
AcidLamp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Hmm...I wasn't aware that the grill design changed from 1981 to 1984.

Here's a little tip. If you get into water deep enough to suck thru your air cleaner, that snorkel isn't going to help you much.

To each his own.....

Matt
Ha yeah I know! It's prep for later. There is a whole slew of things to do on that engine if I want it sealed up.
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