[joe johnson]

i just bought one and am installing it on an 82 cj7 inline 6 with long tube headers and offy intake. How long does it take to install this kit? The local shop wants to charge me 500 bucks for install. At 70 per hour thats a good 7 and a half hours, does that sound right?

thanks to all that supply info

[MudMonster]

yeah probably, jadams has a write up or two on here so search for that or go to www.bustedjeep.com

[John N]

It probably takes that long, but it's easy stuff to do.

[Geer_hed]

Do you have the Howell TBI Install Instrux.

And yeah, Jadams does have a write up. Pretty good with pics...

[jadams68]

It took me 6 hours top to bottom...
If I had to do it again, I could do it in 4 or less.

[gunkysputter23]

I've just ordered the Howell TBI Kit for my 81 CJ7. I've long ago striped her of all unneeded vacuum lines and emissions equipment and such including the charcoal box in the gas lines. I'm hoping I can get around using it as well as hooking up the vacuum advance on the distributor. All vacuum valves and switches in the intake manifold have also been removed. Has anyone done this type of installation or have any input?

[jadams68]

done what type of install... a Howell kit?
What specific questions do you have?

[gunkysputter23]

Are there ways to install a Howell TBI kit without using all the sensors and lines, a way of tricking the computer into running how I desire it to run? The sensors and lines are mentioned above.

[jadams68]

Well the whole point of the howell kit is to bring modern fuel delivery and modern emissions controls at the same time. There are only 4 sensors in the entire kit.

Map sensor
O2 Sensor
Speed sensor
Coolant Temp Sensor

All of them are necessary to have the computer control the injection, fuel air mixture.

I wouldn't mess with it.

[gunkysputter23]

Thanks, I most likely won't mess with it too much, I was just wondering what my options were.

[joe johnson]

i all ready have stripped all of the emissions lines off of the jeep. so the first few steps on the write up are all done at this point. I think i could do this in like 3 hours with the exception of the coolant sensor. I have the offy intake so I have no clue where my coolant temp sensor is now.
Its an 82 inline six; does anyone have any idea where the coolant sensor might be with my aftermarket intak on there?

[Jeep Daddy]

Originally Posted by joe johnson

i all ready have stripped all of the emissions lines off of the jeep. so the first few steps on the write up are all done at this point. I think i could do this in like 3 hours with the exception of the coolant sensor. I have the offy intake so I have no clue where my coolant temp sensor is now.
Its an 82 inline six; does anyone have any idea where the coolant sensor might be with my aftermarket intak on there?

All the original sensors were located on the intake manifold. The temp gauge sender is on the rear of the head but is too small for what you want to do. Look for a passage on the block. I'm not sure there are any there but if not, I think you might be able to use (modify) a 4.0 thermostat housing. I believe it has a spot to tap into for a sensor. The only other thing I can think of is to tap into a heater hose with a Tee and put it there.

[jeepmor]

There are places to put the sensors on the block. I have my coolant sensor at about #2-3 cylinder area around manifold and headers. If you have headers you may need some heat tape for the wires, I do. I've had a Howell kit for about 8 years now and love it. About the only improvement you can make to it tinker wise is the call howell and get a new chip. They told me I don't need a new chip until I install a new cam.

You can use 90s era S-10 air filter housings on this setup and graft it to your fresh air intake with a little creativity. Be sure to get the plastic tube that goes with your air filter housing. There are thermostatic and vacuum actuated hot air pickups styles for warming up faster. I currently don't have mine connected due to the headers not offering a hot air tin, but it did work with stock exh, but I had to make an adapter. I use some black duct tape, worked for years until I switched to Clifford int/exh. I prefer the thermostatic part and like to stay away from the vacuum components when I can. I put a K&N in it too, so remember what S-10 truck you get it from for reference.

If you have the offenhauser manifold, you're set, it will bolt straight on because the offy uses the stock throttle linkage that mounts to the manifold. I have a Clifford, and it does not link the same and I had to modify a 4bbl throttle cable holder. Worked okay, but not as clean because it eliminated my stock throttle cable and the replacement is too long and has to loop around.

If you want to go nuts with TBI potential, you can talk to turbo city. They offer bigger TBI's, computer controlled timing with an HEI distributor and knock sensor. Pretty much like the OEM stuff from chevy, that's the way they ran it. Howell took the dist and knock sensor out of the system, not really necessary with a good distributor.

If you order a kit, let them know if you have an MSD ignition, they or you, will have to install a different filter in the harness. It won't start otherwise. I found out the hard way. You only need a soldering iron to perform the filter change.

One word of warning for those old cjs. Make sure your return line is not restricted in any way. If you have higher than 13psig return fuel pressure, it's a problem and will burn up a catalytic converter. Mine plugged and cost me a new cat and return line. The FI pump returns a lot of gas relative to the old carb system, so test your return line pressure, it's worth the hassle. It's a bummer to see that red light come on.

jeepmor

[gunkysputter23]

Originally Posted by jeepmor

If you order a kit, let them know if you have an MSD ignition, they or you, will have to install a different filter in the harness. It won't start otherwise. I found out the hard way. You only need a soldering iron to perform the filter change.

Jeepmor, are you talking about the condenser that sits next to the points in the distributor? I know of no other filter in the wiring harness.

I also lost the cat converter many a day ago. What effect will that have?

I'm also planning on tossing the old clutch fan setup and installed dual flex-a-lite fans. Will that play a factor in the integration of the Howell's computer with heat?

I've already ordered the Howell kit over the net but haven't received it yet. However, I did call their 1-800# and was told that all of the components I would need were in the kit. Let's hope so.

[jeepmor]

Originally Posted by gunkysputter23

Jeepmor, are you talking about the condenser that sits next to the points in the distributor?

I also lost the cat converter many a day ago. What effect will that have?
I'm also planning on tossing the old clutch fan setup and installed dual flex-a-lite fans. Will that play a factor in the integration of the Howell's computer with heat?

I've already ordered the Howell kit over the net but haven't received it yet. However, I did call their 1-800# and was told that all of the components I would need were in the kit. Let's hope so.

Answer #1 No, the filter is a howell part and it's in the Howell harness right as it comes out of the computer.

Answer #2 - No cat will have no effect, it's main control for fuel, once warm, is the O2 sensor. However, mine did not have enough backpressure with the headers and new intake, plus 2 1/2 exhaust, so I put my cat back in. It did run better, but it did not have anything to do with the workings of the catalytic converter, is was the backpressure it created. I have a full size V-8 high flow cat if your wondering. I had a test pipe when I initially put the clifford stuff on for safety. I've been through too many catalytic converters.

#3 - Fans won't make a difference, it does not control cooling, your fan does. The computer only senses temp and optimizes Air/Fuel ratio accordingly.

Do you want to sell that old fan clutch? I'm interested, I have the fixed style and want to convert. Is it a plastic or metal fan on the clutch? Will you be parting with the shroud also?

#4 comment - kits are complete, I can vouch for that. You may want to get some more 1/16" rubber for the harness passthru the firewall to fashion a grommet. The computer mounts above your glove box. Also, that heat tape for the coolant sensor that ended up routing next to the exhaust manifold, I did not have any tape on this wire until I installed my headers recently. And some silcone sealer, I recall that adapter gasket needing some to keep me happy.

It's a great kit. Mine only advice having done this, would be to put a return fuel pressure gage in or at least check it when initially firing up. If return pressure is too high, it will run, but not properly and you'll be running rich and blowing black smoke.

This and a worn plastic tip on my Idle air controller are the only issues I've had in eight years, and it always ran, regardless of the engine light or not. That was good peace of mind.


Hope this helps,

jeepmor