'86 CJ7 won't start. - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-24-2013, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
0hcanada
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Oshawa
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'86 CJ7 won't start.

Stopped at the gas station and Jeep wouldn't re-start. Upon trying barely would register a reading on the Voltmeter, then the odd time would; intermittent; but only about a 10. Would read better on ACC (Accessory) a 12. A couple of days ago at the carwash when I turned the key to the ON position, the needle on the Oil Gauge moved up, down, up, down, ...... and the Voltage meter registered nothing then all of a sudden moved up and the Jeep finally started preceded by a slight hesitation on starting. Then today, nothing.

Tried boosting, but all I got was a clicking. Tried a few times, even tapped starter and solenoid. No luck.

Pulled battery and had it 'Load Tested'. Came back GOOD (Voltage: 12.52V; Measured 508 CCA; Rated 630 CCA; Temperature 23 degrees), but low on charge so added some distilled water (one cell fairly low), and am now trickle charging overnight.

Have since read a few old threads here and sounds like problem could be anything from a battery issue (above?), cable from battery to solenoid, or dirty grounds.

Be curious to hear some thoughts/suggestions.

Is there a short cut to start the Jeep where I could get it home/moved; if so how?

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post #2 of 11 Old 08-24-2013, 05:07 PM
Jeeper44mag
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1978 CJ7 
 
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Location: Tampa
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Check all connections first. It's very possible that you have an inadequate ground.

Luis

Black '05 LJ, soft top, ~4" lift, 42rle, 3.73, 35"x12.5" AT's, Tampa FL area
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-24-2013, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
0hcanada
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battery to solenoid and/or battery to block?
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-24-2013, 07:12 PM
shadoow
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check em all: battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter, battery to block and both battery connections on the battery terminals. Make sure they are clean and tight.
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-25-2013, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
0hcanada
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thanks boyz. all fixed up and running again. cleaned all my contacts (battery clamps, posts, solenoid, starter and block connections, ....). am all good again.

thanks for all the heads up and advice.
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-26-2013, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
0hcanada
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actually one last question.

would I be best to convert ALL these connections with white lithium grease?
if not all, which connections? and if not white lithium grease, which kind/type of application?

thanks.
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-26-2013, 08:19 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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I think white lithium grease hardens over time when it's exposed to air. I wouldn't use it.

If anything, buy some conducting lubricant from an electrical supply company.

Matt


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post #8 of 11 Old 08-26-2013, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
0hcanada
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great thanks for the info.
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-26-2013, 12:40 PM
shadoow
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dielectric grease
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post #10 of 11 Old 08-26-2013, 02:43 PM
jdarg
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Dielectric grease can actually cause issues because it is non-conductive. Something like Caig Deoxit would work much better in this application.

'94 YJ - SBC/AX15/231, SOA, 8.8, 34" swampers
'06 LJ Rubicon - 31" ATs, OME 2.5", belly-up skid, other junk
'75 CJ5 - 232/T14/D20, 'glass tub w/ 2" BL, otherwise stock
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post #11 of 11 Old 08-26-2013, 04:58 PM
LumpyGrits
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadoow View Post
dielectric grease
NO-That can stop contact.
What does the first 3 letters(Die)tell you in it name.
LG

Have'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men
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