I have a 85 CJ7, 258 with a T-5 behind it. All factory set up drive train. The clutch is showing signs of wear and I am going install a new one soon.
The transmission is working fine, just a little slop (as expected) however I was thinking about going with a something a little more robust. My jeep is a daily driver and I commute 20 miles to work on a highway. I do very little off road, but do some and a lot of gravel roads in the fall. Should I stick the T-5 back in or go with something else? I don't want to spend a ton of coin either. Just heard a lot of bad things about the T-5.
The slop is in the shifter. Easy fix.
I have had a T-5 in my CJ since the day I bought it in March of 1985.
I'm run'n 4:88 R&P with 33" BFG's
You REALLY need to buy a copy of the Factory Service Manual(MR-252)!
There is a kit, with all the parts needed to take out the slop in the shifter, and not expensive at all. It is installed at the top of the tranny...but I don't recall what they call it. I got one for my T5 and the T176 from Morris 4x4.
Take shifter 'boot' off.
You'll see the area where the 2 pieces are pressed together. You'll also see what crap idea the was by Borg-Warner.
Drill 1/4" dia hole through the to parts of the shifter where they 'mate'.
Install bolt w/nut. Never worry about it again.
I need to replace my transmission in my 85 CJ7. Where is the best place to go without paying an arm and leg?
You get what you pay for when it comes to driveline repairs. What you save in rebuild costs could easily bite you in the ars and you'll end up paying more than what a rebuild would have cost in the first place.
If you don't want to shell out money for a professional rebuild (which usually include a warranty) you'll likely have to scour the interweb to find a good used unit (which has none). If you find someone doing a bargain rebuild I;d be sketpical of either the parts being used or the quality of the work being done.
The other option is to find a local offroad club, forum or facebook page and ask someone to help you through the rebuild yourself.
'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.
The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her. :-D
1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
That will take the slop out of your shifter. Lumpy's suggestion will work too and be permanant, but a new isolator will tighten it up cheaply and it will stay tight for years.
My suggestion is to tighten up your shifter, and keep an eye out for a cheap used T176/T177. If you wait till you NEED a transmission, you'll end up paying $$$. If you keep an eye out for one and buy it now, you'll have it if/when your T5 craps out, and you can wait till you find a cheap one. I have two in my shop I got for $200 or less that I've picked up over the years. One will go in my Tan CJ when the T5 craps out, and the other will be a spare since I'll then have 3 CJ's all running T176's.
Only way to keep from bankrupting yourself when dealing with CJ's is to buy parts BEFORE you need them so you can get deals on parts.
85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT