Originally Posted by oconnob55
Battery - 12.97
Porclin voltage reducer 12.92 on hot side / 6.0 on reduced side
coil pos side - 6.0 (same as reducer)
These are w/ key on. I did go back and shut key off, I read a on a thread where some had similar no fire while cranking, then fire at last minute when key rolled back to "running" position, still researching for thread. Hoping to resolve this evening or a long walk to work....
I see an issue here that I would like cleared up...
An '84 with 'Voltage Reducer' ("Porcelain").
There shouldn't be an ignition resistor on an '84, even in a 4 cylinder version.
Do you know what type of ignition it has? Factory looking?
What you are seeing with your testing is how your ignition is supposed to work when the module or breaker points aren't doing their jobs.
When you apply power to the ignition coil, you 'Saturate' the coil.
When you cut the switch off, you kill that magnetic field saturation, and the coil discharges ONCE...
Your problem is now diagnosed to module, pick up coil or wiring in between the two.
Coil is working...
Now, there are some guys that have no idea how an ignition works, and they will argue this point, so don't get confused by them, stay on point.
The coil 'Saturates' when the power is 'ON', and it fires when the magnetic field collapses when power to primary is cut off.
Some guys don't realize this, so they argue the point and you can't diagnose without knowing how things work...
If you can take a picture of the distributor,
Or describe it accurately, I should be able to help you diagnose this issue correctly...
Does it have the coil in the cap (GM HEI) or is it a remote coil, meaning the coil is beside the distributor?
IS the coil 'Round' or square?
Some 4 cylinder Jeep engines had a GM HEI distributor with remote coil.
Does the coil have a 'Spark Plug' terminal, or a hole in the center for a wire to push into?
Spark Plug terminal, 'Square' coil means E-core coil, which means you have a GM HEI style ignition, more than likey...
Round coil with 'Socket' type terminal on top (also called a 'Volcano' style coil) means you have some other type of ignition we need to figure out.
The next test will tell me something about your wiring harness,
Test the coil power input to the 'Hot' side of your 'Ceramic' Ignition Resistor.
Test the power WHILE CRANKING THE ENGINE.
Do you have power?
If so, the starter relay is powering up the ignition while the engine is being cranked over,
And that rules out the starter relay/solenoid and it's wiring to the ignition.
Now, that leaves two things,
So answer me these questions,
Does the rotor under the distributor cap screw down?
Do you know where the ignition module is?
Is the ignition module under the rotor inside the distributor?
Do you find breaker points under the rotor in the distributor?
If the rotor screws down, it's a GM Delco Remy distributor.
If you find breaker points, someone has swapped distributors on you (Which explains the Ceramic Ignition Resistor...
If you find a module under the rotor, then you have a GM HEI style electronic distributor.
I would change the module and see if that solves your issues.
I would also remove that resistor, it's not needed and it's hard on the module.
If you find a PUSH ON ROTOR, no screws, we need to start over figuring out what distributor you have...
Things like is there a plastic cover between rotor and distributor internals?
Plastic or metal vacuum advance? Stuff like that...
Again, pictures would help...