it will start fine and idle for about a minute, but after that it chokes off like it's not getting the right fuel mix/air mix and then cuts off. All the emissions stuff has been removed and pluged up. The only hosing remainin are the pcv valve and the vacuum advance. I. Does anyone have an idea off what could be wrong. Vacuum line leaks are my only idea, gonna start checkin them later. One more random question. Should the vacuum advance be atached above or below the carb/manifold plate? Thankyou for your time and help. -Anthony
Anthony....how about more info so we can assist better....what engine, what carb, what mods do you have? Do you still have/use the fuel filter with the "return" line? Just need some more info and there are lots of guys here that will gladly assist.
You should probably give more details, like: was your Jeep running fine and this just started, or has it been parked, or did you just remove all the emmissions ect..............Check this out, kinda sounds like a problem I had. I changed just about everything I could before I tried the gas can. Read this post and it might help you narrow your problem down and save you some headache. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/je...-2-min-783211/
All the emissions stuff has been removed and pluged up. The only hosing remainin are the pcv valve and the vacuum advance.
Unplug the line that went from the charcoal can to the tank. Let the tank breathe, and it'll run. Better thought - connect the charcoal back up so you don't have to smell the gas fumes as it vents out..
1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy
Littlturner76 - I got it cheap because of that. It was sitting for a bit, but ran fine to get gas to take it home, but then we came back to the guy we bought it from and parked it out front to come get later. When we came back it would start and stay running when you tap the accelerator, however if you let off it would cut off.
Okay, that's fine. It doesn't necessarily "need" to be flat....all depends on the cold running/starting characteristics of your engine. If it starts up fine when its cold, there's no need to adjust the choke flap closed any more than it is.
What I am trying to say, however, is that if the choke flap remains in that position after 2 minutes of running, then the engine "begins to run roughly, as if it is not getting the right fuel/air mix, then dies" this COULD be part of the issue...choke flap blocks off airflow into the carb, richening the fuel mixture. Great for cold starts, kills it when the engine is warm. I'd make sure that your choke is opening up enough when the engine is running/warm, that's all I was saying.
Looks like you still have most of the emission parts to me.
If I read your post correctly,
It will stay running, but you have to keep the rpm's up when it wants to die.
Sounds like the carb needs rebuilt.