If you have a welder, sit a nut on top of the bolt head, and fill up the center with weld. Then just put a wrench on it.
1984 CJ7 I6 258 Bone stock
"[I]Screw the brakes, just make the horn louder[/I]!"
My build thread
I was able to remove mine with an 18v cordless impact driver! Never would have thought it would work but I said what the hey and tried it....of course this was after a couple of days of PB and a little heat, but it worked.
On another note, my right rear body mount bolt is spinning, I'm assuming the capture nut broke loose? Read a few posts about having to cut the bumper. Any suggestions?
You may have to go from the inside of the rear tube from the inside wheel well area. Cut it open to access the capture block,repair and close access hole. We did this on my friends but i don't recall removing the tank. I don't think we did.
I was able to get to all the rust with th body on. I did remove all the mounts and just suspend it over the frame so I can see what i was dealing with body mount wise. I will say this, replacing brake and fuel lines with tub on is kind of a pain. I would love to do a tub off but space doesnt permit for me to do that. I did address all the rust though with the tub on though just had to remove everything in my way.
I tried to move the roll bar bolts and broke my torx bit... any pointers on how best to get those out?
I had hell that you can see in my rebuild thread... Ended up having to take it to a friends shop and welding nuts on the top of them, often more than one per torx bolt to get them out. Tried PB blaster, heat, everything that was suggested. It finally took the welding...