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Unread 01-20-2014, 01:50 PM   #1
smbundy13
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'84 CJ-7 "restore" project

Well, I finally was able to get my CJ-7 back from Texas to Alabama. This was my first car when I turned 15 so, I want to get it running and driving again..

the specs on it are:

CJ7, 4cyl 150, 4spd (I think its a T4, but I am not sure), Stock height and axles.

My plans are as follows:
1. get it running and driving and registered
2. chase down some possible electrical issues (haven't even looked for these)
3. lift/tires (I have the lift, waiting on the tires and wheels)
4. Have fun.

seems easy enough.

To accomplish #1 has been an adventure so far.
when my dad had it in his barn, something happened with the ignition switch. Well, he took the whole thing out of the column and wired it up for push button starting w/o a key. I figured this out when I put my new lock cylinder in the column and it turned against no resistance. (good times). Turns out, my dad took everything out of the column that had anything to do with the ignition switch (rack, actuator rod thing, and ignition switch module at the base of the column).. I figured out that getting everything would be difficult w/o specific part numbers (which I have been unable to find). Luckily, my brother-in-law is into jeeps as well because he is sending me one of his spare columns with the guts still in it.

so, as I wait for that "new" column, I installed a new clutch master cylinder and bled the system.. wasn't too hard but I plan on doing it again when(if) drop the trans skid plate for cleaning... (we'll get to that later)

anyways.. here are some pictures.

this was how I pulled it back to Bama


and, wouldn't you know, we had a super cold stretch here in bama and had some water pipes freeze in my garage... the Jeep was in a barn for 6-7 years with no drama... it was in my garage for 2 weeks and this happened... luckily, there was no damage to the Jeep.


this is the issue I had with the ignition switch... it just wasn't there anymore..


it was moved to these two switches



this is what it looked like after I figured out the guts of the column were missing.


took the dash out to have easier access to where the ignition module (should) have been.


I plan to buy a new Painless wiring harness to re-wire everything for the following reason.....



Once I re-do the wiring, I want to remove as much of the EPA stuff that I can get away with... since Alabama has no vehicle inspections, the only thing to worry about is to keep everything running correctly. And, if (when) I ever move back to Texas, the jeep is old enough to be exempt from any emissions testing.

so, my plan this weekend is to drop the gas tank and get new soft fuel lines, as long as the hardlines are still in good condition. I will have to get a new fuel pump and fuel filter(s).. can I get those at autozone or another parts store? of, do I need to order them from a source like Quadratec?

so, I will post some updates and some (a lot) questions.

thanks in advance for your help.

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Unread 01-20-2014, 03:15 PM   #2
seabass1858
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not bad looking. looks mostely surface rust repairs. hows the frame. Oh and great color, Im also doing a beige cj7 reconditioning.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 05:48 PM   #3
BlkCJ7Laredo
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Really no need to drop a bunch of coin on a new harness. It looks like that one hasn't been all hacked up. Just remove what you don't need and leave what is needed to run the Jeep. Most of it is pretty straightforward. Just search for Nutter and Team Rush. Most all of the same principles will apply to the AMC 150 as to the AMC 258.


I bought a Jeep to use a plow truck last year and that's how they had the ignition switch hooked up, but all the original stuff was still there so I just hooked it back up. Apparently one of the PO's wasn't smart enough to simply adjust the ignition switch so the start circuit would engage.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 06:01 PM   #4
smbundy13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlkCJ7Laredo View Post
Really no need to drop a bunch of coin on a new harness. It looks like that one hasn't been all hacked up. Just remove what you don't need and leave what is needed to run the Jeep. Most of it is pretty straightforward. Just search for Nutter and Team Rush. Most all of the same principles will apply to the AMC 150 as to the AMC 258.


I bought a Jeep to use a plow truck last year and that's how they had the ignition switch hooked up, but all the original stuff was still there so I just hooked it back up. Apparently one of the PO's wasn't smart enough to simply adjust the ignition switch so the start circuit would engage.
hmm... I have checked around for the nutter bypass just haven't really gotten in their and researched it... I am just concerned about 30 year old connectors..
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Unread 01-20-2014, 06:04 PM   #5
smbundy13
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I do have a question though... when I hook the battery up, something on the firewall clicks... I think it is a relay of some sort, it doesn't have a rhyme or reason to the clicking... just kind of does... I unplugged what I think is the power wire and it stopped... does anyone know what this is?





the wire in front of it is what I unplugged. looking at the picture, the wire I unplugged is the ground... just don't know what this part is for... the jeep isn't running right now so I cant see if it affects how it runs.

any help is much appreciated
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Unread 01-20-2014, 11:07 PM   #6
jeepmor
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That's a relay for the emissions is my bet. I'd suggest a howell tbi upgrade. After howell, it guts the entire emissions junk. I have an 84 also by the way. You can successfully mothball the entire emissions system in place and just run the carb. I did this until I got my howell. And it smogged fine as everything is there for visual inspection and a tuned carb will pass the sniff test.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 09:13 AM   #7
smbundy13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepmor View Post
That's a relay for the emissions is my bet. I'd suggest a howell tbi upgrade. After howell, it guts the entire emissions junk. I have an 84 also by the way. You can successfully mothball the entire emissions system in place and just run the carb. I did this until I got my howell. And it smogged fine as everything is there for visual inspection and a tuned carb will pass the sniff test.
good info... I am going to have to look at everything.. I have the 4cyl engine, does the nutter apply to that as well? most of my emissions junk is toast anyways, just due to deterioration.. luckily, in Alabama and texas, there is no emissions testing..

did you post a thread on removing the emission stuff? if so, can you provide a link to it? Thanks a lot.
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Unread 01-23-2014, 10:24 AM   #8
smbundy13
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Well, I am going to try to tackle the fuel system this weekend. I am going to drop the tank and check it out / clean it out (if it is usable). then I am going to disconnect all the soft lines and blow some air backwards through the hardlines to clear out what ever bad gas and gunk has built up in them (hopefully)..

I also will get a new fuel pump and filter.. it has been suggested that I get a cheap little fuel filter that is see through to put in front of the nice metal one so I can quickly look at what is going through the lines. would yall agree?

any tips to doing this? mostly I am worried about dropping the tank.

thanks.
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Unread 01-25-2014, 10:27 AM   #9
Kstein
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I dropped the tank on my 85 CJ7 a few days ago for the first time. (It's the 20 gal stock.) Here's how I did it:

Pull the filler and vent hoses at the tank. (I was able to do this with the back wheels on, but I later decided to put the jeep on jack stands and remove these tires for more working room.) I put the jack stands on the frame, and then two more under the rear axle for safety. (You'll be under the tank some....don't take shortcuts, if you remove the back tires.)

Siphon as much gas as you can from the nipple where the filler hose was attached.

Loosen the nuts on the skid plate. (There's 5 rearward and 3 forward.) The longer strap bolt on the rearward side does not need to be taken off to remove the tank.

Place a floor jack under the center of the tank and raise if enough to just touch the tank. Double check that the support plate is very close to the center of the tank. Remove the nuts from the rear, but just back the forward nuts off to the edge of the bolts.

Slowly lower the tank about a half inch. If the tank feels stable, remove the forward nuts. My tank rubbed slightly on the inner shackle bolts, but just ease it down until you have access to the top of the tank. You'll need to disconnect the the supply and vent hoses either where they conned to the hard lines, or at the tank. Also, disconnect the two wires at the sending unit. The connectors just pull off from the mounting posts.

If the floor jack support is small, the tank will be tipsy. Before you lower the tank further, you'll want to position some type of support to land the tank on. I built a dolly (U-shaped with casters) that I lowered the tank on to for portability. The U-shape allowed me to maneuver the floor jack without interfering with the dolly.

Good luck.
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TAMC85 CJ7
Still Original: Tub, Rollbar; Frame; 258 Block; T176; DANA300; Steering; DANA30; AMC20; Drive Shafts; Wheels; Tank; Altenator; Fan; Frt Bumper; Speedo; Heater Box; Spare Carrier; Seat risers
Replaced: Radiator; Valve Cover; Clutch linkage; Taillights; Frt Brake Calipers; Fuel, Tmp, and Oil Pressure Gauges; Exhaust line; Seat Belts; Paint
Mods: Mopar MPI(in progress); 4.0 Al Cylinder Head; OME YJ Suspension; MC Seats; Tub liner; 31" Tires

Last edited by Kstein; 01-25-2014 at 10:28 AM.. Reason: typo
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Unread 01-25-2014, 12:50 PM   #10
smbundy13
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Thanks very much for the detailed writeup. I just bought a new fuel pump and filter. Also got some replacement flexible fuel lines. Hopefully my hard lines are in good condition.
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Unread 01-27-2014, 09:22 AM   #11
smbundy13
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Well, on Saturday, I was able to remove the tank out of my CJ. I got it out without destroying anything that I wasn't going to replace anyways. (the skidplate.. but more on that later)

I had to cut two lines that go to some sort of canister up in the drivers' side fenderwell. looks like a vapor canister. anyways, they were dry-rotted so I need to replace them anyways.

I haven't been able to separate the tank from the skid yet because I am going to have to cut the top strap because I am unable to get a wrench on the bolt to loosen it. I am going to get a replacement factory skid but I don't know if it comes with a new top strap. I think it does because it looks to be built into the skid plate.

I need to remove the sending unit so I can inspect the inside of the tank, is there a special tool I need for that?

I don't want to replace the tank unless I have to. any advice on how to clean it out the best? there was no gas in it at all when I tried to drain it... hopefully that is a good thing.

anyways, here are some pictures. beware, it is super dirty..



these are the two lines I had to cut. I have seen someone just run a hose from one, directly to the other.. can I do that also?


this is the canister they were going to:


one reason I have to replace the skid (and this crossmember.. I lost a fight with a stuck tractor...


I need to cut this strap... hopefully a replacement comes with a new top strap


so, that was my weekend... no calamity.. so that is nice.

I start working Saturdays this weekend but maybe I can get something accomplished on the crossmember... any advice how best to remove it? I know it is welded to the frame.. I plan on using my sawzall on that.. I don't really have any other plan to address that... maybe a small cut-off wheel?

thanks
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Unread 01-28-2014, 08:55 AM   #12
smbundy13
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ok, good news, I found out I can get replacement straps for the skid... so, that dude is getting cut soon.. I think I am going to go ahead and cut all three straps and just replace them, since they are maybe $10 a piece.

I am supposed to be getting my new column in today so maybe I can get the guts out of it into my stock one..
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Unread 02-01-2014, 07:55 PM   #13
smbundy13
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so, good times today... found out my gas tank has 3 extra holes in it... thats why it was empty... sucks... so, after that bit of great news, I pressure washed the whole deal.. made it look a little better and got about 15 pounds of dried mud (aka dirt) out of the trans / transfer case skid plate... well, tomorrow, I plan on trying to get the rear crossmember replaced.. wont be easy since it is welded to the frame for some reason... Good times!!

also, since I apparently didnt see enough rust for today, I found some rust on my windshield frame and in my tub under/beside the roll bar on the floor... luckily, the windshield frame appears to be structurally sound.. the body tub next to the roll bar, on the other hand, goes straight through to the ground...
so, without further ado, here are some pictures.

gas tank holes..


fresh and clean!!


don't be jealous of my drop down tailgate


driver side floor pan. looks bad but it is solid..


passenger side is much better..


this is what peaked my interest of my windshield frame


outside


inside


annnndddd.. the great news for today... the hole in my floor by the freaking roll bar


so, thats it for today..
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Unread 02-01-2014, 07:56 PM   #14
smbundy13
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another picture of the rust damage...

dont think my screwdriver is supposed to go straight through...



I tried to move the roll bar bolts and broke my torx bit... any pointers on how best to get those out?
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Unread 02-01-2014, 08:13 PM   #15
ETthomehomw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smbundy13
another picture of the rust damage... dont think my screwdriver is supposed to go straight through... I tried to move the roll bar bolts and broke my torx bit... any pointers on how best to get those out?
Yes. An act of God. Or a lot of heat and pb blaster. Which ever one you believe in.
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