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#1 | |
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Registered User
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83 cj-8 reclamation project with pictures and ???'s
I joined in late august when i bought this cj-8 off e-bay for 4500. The ad said no major holes in the frame, recently installed SOA lift. surface rust only on body. Let's just say I got what I asked for buying a jeep site unseen. Here are the pics from the ebay listing...
Also, want to say thanks for everyone that's helped so far, and tell evryone a little about my skills or lack thereof so you can help me out and know what i do and don't know when i post here. I am not a mechanic, welder or fabricator by profession. I can't weld. However, for any of you who follow professional mud racing my Uncle was Skip Collins (skippin' pennies, Deuces wild, Instant-T). I grew up working on the race trucks but was mostly invovled with maintenance and basic fab. My cousin is a professional welder so I never learned how to weld as he would come by after i left and weld anything we had fabbed up/clamped. Anyway. I can take apart and put things back together, read alot before i do anything and am working to secure a garage big enough to tear this thing apart. in the meantime, this build thread is about gettin this thing rolling, steering, stopping safe and effectively. let me know how you think things are going... on with the pics.
Last edited by spk454; 12-17-2007 at 06:34 PM.. |
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#2 |
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That V8 is a huge plus. Was it swapped in or is it original?
What type of tranny do you have? I didn't know anything about jeeps a year ago and now I just rebuilt my engine. Now sometimes I feel that I know everything about CJ's. ![]()
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[URL="http://traviswhite.proboards60.com"]CJ Forum[/URL] [COLOR="Blue"]Blue Jeep Club Member #238[/COLOR] [url]http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q120/traviswhite92/DSC07176.jpg[/url] [B]Hemi Club member #17[/B] |
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#3 |
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first off the "recent" soa. when i got into it i found shims that weren't tight, hardware store u-bolts, flipped spring plates torched open to fit, 2.5 inch perches on the front 2" springs creating some interesting u-bolt geometry. The front springs didn't match and the right rear was pretty sagged out. The truck was too tall on the SOA for the 32's (I will be running 33's when they wear out)
p.s. notice the optional "dual coil" in the motor pic. (the one running the motor was just sitting on the alt. bracket not mounted to anything. |
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#4 |
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went 4" SUA for ease of install and lower COG. added an extra leaf to all four packs to compensate for the extra weight of the cj-8 in back and the v-8 in front.
White92... It was a swapped in 304 (no scramblers came with factory v8 power) These pics are elsewhere, but for the purpose of maintaining the thread here's the 360 swap pictures. I thought i'd be in good shape for the swap b/c the conversion work was already done (yeah right) e.g. the way they brought the fuel line from pass side (i6) to driver (v8) was to snake rubber line behind the alternator, over the timing cover etc. etc... |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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next up was cooling woes. bought a new read-rad 2"core radiator and dual puller fans (2500cfm custom brackets to fit cj and thermostat controls). ditched the push through probe sensor for a SPAL programmable unit with a thread in sensor on the intake. with fans running the motot would run 180-185 (40degree day) while going down the road, near 210 at idle when not moving. so pic of new aluminum radiatior and some questions...
Should I go mechanical fan (my mechanic thinks i should) or buy a new 16" electric. Will the electric be enough with the new rad? they say (at novak) that the new rad will outcool a 5 row brass and should work with electric no prob, but want other opinions. motor is supposed to be 300hp, 380ft/lbs. but i didn't pay to get it dynoed. Also pic of new rad/fan combo that is now available (should work great with 16 or stock 304/360...PM me if interested) |
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#6 |
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next up, new wheel cylinders, brake lines and vanco dual diaphragm booster (got on sale thanks to heads up on this forum...thanks again). already changed the front rotors/pads and re-packed the front bearings just so i could drive it at all...
Anyone have a fan suggestion for the radiator? The flex a lite's won't work with the side tank style of the new rad... Was thinking maybe spal 16" 2470cfm? would like to do a taurus fan but only have 4.175" between thick alum rad and water pump... |
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#7 |
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The transmission is a T5 which i fully understand may grenade on me, but it shifts fine and works well for now. Plan on using an ax-15 once the frame-off starts.
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#8 |
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anyone think a contour fan might work? they are staggered so may clear the outlet. they will hang over the tanks though and only cover 15 inches top to bottom (core is 19" tall).
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#9 | |
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Quote:
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'81 Scrambler w/ FI 360 AMC, 33x12.50 BFG M/T's, 5" of lift, ARB'd Dana 44's F & R, Dana 300 clocked & twin sticked w/4:1, Warn XD9000i, etc... 2002 Grand Cherokee Limited, 2008 Overland Grand Cherokee, a 1976 CJ-7 in pieces and 3 more off-brand 4x4s............... John N |
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#10 |
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ok so after replacing with aluminum radiator and new spal fan found faulty ground on water temp gauge. don't think the motor was ever overheating (gauge showing 210, IR laser thermometer shows 167 at top hose with 160 t-stat, now replacin with 185...)
pics of truck with new lower stance and dual exhaust with exit behind rear tires. all welded aluminized 2.25, they did a great job keeping it up tight... dropped the rear drive shaft coming home, unbolted the slip yoke and drove home in FWD... |
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#11 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North East Texas, Texas
Posts: 992
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Did I see a photo up there with one spring on TOP of the axle and the other BELOW it???? For real???
Bruce |
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#12 | |
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Quote:
I think he was in the middle of a SOA - SUA conversion. SPK, looking good! ![]()
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#13 |
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one over, one under, that's a problem? I reversed it in the back so it's still level... LOL, Fatman is right, that was an in progress pic...
Just put an offer in on a house with a 16*32' garage. Keeping fingers crossed. At least the suspension work will all be figured out before I tear it down. Have to change the shims out of the rear. the SUA kit was for cj5,7, and 8 and it's too much for the 8. The pinion points at the top of the t-case no good with my slip yoke. The u joint failed because the "sealed" caps went dry by the looks of it. bringing the shaft to get repaired/new u-joints tomorrow. Anyone used A-1 driveshafts in Baltimore? |
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#14 |
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#15 |
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Lookin' good! I can't wait to see this bad boy finished!
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- Red '84 CJ-7 - I'll build it someday! I have the parts, but no shop and no time! :( - Black '78 J-10 - rollin' on 37s and SOA with front/rear Detroits, high-steer, etc. - Green '93 ZJ - Crusty old PARTS-GIVER TO THE CJ! "Six in a row makes it go" ...and a driveway full of Subarus... |
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