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Unread 11-07-2014, 05:26 PM   #1
Dborns
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8274 Remote wiring help

I worked on the motor/ solenoid assembly today and also cleaned up some of the wiring. I've been looking for a schematic or pics on how the wiring comes out of the remote socket and what solenoids it connects to. I've found quite a few pics, but none have the wiring going to the same solenoids that I do, so I could use some help.
The first pic is of the solenoids themselves, and I marked them with a number that corresponds to numbers I marked on the socket itself.

photo-1.jpg

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Unread 11-07-2014, 05:28 PM   #2
Dborns
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On the socket, the pic is straight on as if it was in the plug, and it was wired so that the #1 wire was in the upper right, and going clockwise, then #2, and #3, with nothing in the upper left pin.
photo.jpg

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Unread 11-07-2014, 06:54 PM   #3
zillla
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Found his 4 solenoid diagram. Even though the plug has 4 connectors you only use 3. Looks to me like you have it in the correct sequence, just need to connect to the control.


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Unread 11-07-2014, 07:28 PM   #4
Dborns
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Ive seen that pic, but it didnt breakdown the terminals on the socket connection. The wiring was changed and I want to make sure both the connections at the solenoids and the socket pins are correct. In that pic the solenoids are numbered, any idea of how that corresponds with them in the pack? Maybe clockwise?
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Unread 11-07-2014, 11:17 PM   #5
zillla
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OK, I get it.. What you need is a multi-meter and to test the switch configuration. One wire will be common to both other wires when the switch is moved. Let's say for example that you have a black, a red and a white wire. Put the meter on ohms. Connect one lead to the black wire and the other to the white wire. Move the switch to one position, doesn't matter which one. Does the meter move to zero or close to it? Lets say it does. So you have found one set of switch contacts. Now move the meter lead from the white wire to the red. Move the switch the other way. Does the meter move? Lets say no. These have to be the wires that go to the solenoid [black and white]. Now verify by connecting the meter to the red and white. Move the switch the opposite of what you original did and the meter should move close to zero. In our example the red wire is the hot or feed from your power source. The black and white go to the appropriate solenoid coils.. It helps to draw a small diagram. You can test w/o taking the plug apart just test to the prongs, #1,2 and 3..


Now once you identify the wires then you just need to connect them to the proper solenoid for the direction you want. You may have to reverse the solenoid wires to get it the way you want it..
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Unread 11-08-2014, 02:31 PM   #6
Dborns
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Ok. I didnt bring an ohm meter with me so Ill try what youre suggesting this week. I dont have it hooked up to a battery since Im rebuilding the winch, but Ill figure something out so I can test it as you suggest.

Thanks!
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Unread 11-22-2014, 07:44 PM   #7
Dborns
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Ive seen people weld a bolt to the motor for a better ground. I was thinking the ground wire was bolted onto one of the long bolts that hold the motor on the upper housing, andinstead of doing that, youre supposed to use the bolt welded to y he motor? Is that correct, and if so, does the other end of that wire go to the battery?
Thanks
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Unread Yesterday, 02:28 AM   #8
holliewood61
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I dont even have a ground wire in mine, I let it ground through the winch plate to the frame.

Here's how mine is wired if it helps.

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Unread Yesterday, 08:03 AM   #9
lucdog
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IIRC there is a threaded hole on the back side of the motor. Winches' should have a dedicated ground direct from the battery. I have not seen a winch that didn't come from the factory with a positive and negative cable. This would include harbor freight winches.

As seen in the above picture there are 3 wires for the control,
1.) 12 volts positive connected to the positive wire from the battery.
2.) 2 wires that are for in and out.

Using a fused 12 volt positive source from under the dash, the only wires needed for a in cab switch are the 2 wires connected to the solenoids.

I would also use a safety switch in the cab to supply voltage to the winch activation switch.
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Unread Yesterday, 10:00 AM   #10
CSP
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My 8274 didn't have a ground from the factory. I've owned it since new in the early 80s and it's been on three vehicles since then without issue.

#1 above is the common power leg. #2 and #3 and the in/out solenoids. I'd have to trace mine to see which is which.
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Unread Yesterday, 04:15 PM   #11
lucdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP
My 8274 didn't have a ground from the factory. I've owned it since new in the early 80s and it's been on three vehicles since then without issue. #1 above is the common power leg. #2 and #3 and the in/out solenoids. I'd have to trace mine to see which is which.
Strange, my 1984 does.

image-2088382898.jpg

I believe the tapped hole to be factory, it doesn't got thru the housing, threads are tapped to the bottom.
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
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1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
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1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
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Unread Yesterday, 04:27 PM   #12
GPER
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I put my 8274 0n in 1980 and it does have a ground cable going to the battery.
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Unread Yesterday, 04:29 PM   #13
JeepHammer
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If you want a diagram,
Then tell me, where does the battery hook up to the relays?

Where do the cables out to the motor hook up?

Does the motor have two or three terminals? (parallel or series wound?)

---------------------

Dborns,
Someone colorblind has rewired your plug.
You have everything in RED and that's going to make it harder,
Working on a diagram...
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Unread Yesterday, 04:37 PM   #14
JeepHammer
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Lucdog, GPER, you are both correct.

Since this is a MOTOR FRAME 'Ground', this is probably a Series wound motor.

How many terminals on the motor, including the 'Ground'?

If you are going to supply a high amp load draw (Motor) with POSITIVE,
It only makes sense to supply it with NEGATIVE.

Relying on rusted bolts, rusted brackets, paint, and who knows what else to supply 'Ground Path' back to the battery is hard as hell on the motor.
VERY good way to burn brushes and pit the copper on the commutator on the armature.
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Unread Yesterday, 04:46 PM   #15
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dborns View Post
On the socket, the pic is straight on as if it was in the plug, and it was wired so that the #1 wire was in the upper right, and going clockwise, then #2, and #3, with nothing in the upper left pin.
How about cleaning off that connector so I can see the 'Key' in it?
I can't get the diagram correct if I can't see the key in the connector.

Does the key in that connector line up with the key in the plug that fits it?
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