81 CJ7 Under Hood Clean Up - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 24 Old 03-18-2013, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
DYontheForum
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81 CJ7 Under Hood Clean Up

As I am starting to put my Jeep back together I realized how bad the rats nest of wires in the engine bay, original 30, is. So I wanted some good ideas to clean it up. I was thinking about going to HEI, which would remove some stuff but I'm not sure what. Maybe the painless wiring harness would be a good idea, but there is not much wrong with my factory harness.

Also I have a mess of vacuum lines that I have no idea what to do with, I will get pics tomorrow.

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post #2 of 24 Old 03-18-2013, 10:40 PM
BagusJeep
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They are not that difficult to marshal back into the original wiring looms. Get the original diagrams for the routing and it will start to make sense.

A few cable ties will help get them together.

I then use flexible conduit, the sort you can get for computer wires, and wrap each part of the loom in that with a few cable ties on the outside to hold it together.

When you hav that you will notice your rat's nest is under control.

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1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
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post #3 of 24 Old 03-20-2013, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
DYontheForum
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What is this thing?



image-2857266895.jpg


What is this hose for?



image-3440728219.jpg


Is this supposed to be capped off?



image-1791508563.jpg
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post #4 of 24 Old 03-20-2013, 01:22 PM
sgtbookie
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Garage
Get your favorite beverage then Check out this site: http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/

Great site for figuring out what all the crap under the hood is!


2005 LJ Rubicon Sahara #380
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post #5 of 24 Old 03-20-2013, 01:34 PM
cj5russ
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Oh wow, awesome site.

I can chime in that 3 nipple fitting in the block is a temp activated vacuum switch. I plugged mine with a brass plug.
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post #6 of 24 Old 03-20-2013, 07:06 PM
Qualitycfi
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Here's my Clean-up!

Works great now without the new Weber 38 installed (not pic'd).
Attached Thumbnails
Engine.jpg  
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post #7 of 24 Old 03-20-2013, 07:07 PM
Qualitycfi
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Ooops

Sorry, misspoke. With the Weber 38..
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post #8 of 24 Old 03-20-2013, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
DYontheForum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qualitycfi
Works great now without the new Weber 38 installed (not pic'd).
How did you get it that clean!?
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post #9 of 24 Old 03-20-2013, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
DYontheForum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cj5russ
Oh wow, awesome site.

I can chime in that 3 nipple fitting in the block is a temp activated vacuum switch. I plugged mine with a brass plug.
What is the temp activated vacuum switch for?
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post #10 of 24 Old 03-20-2013, 08:23 PM
cj5russ
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Not too sure, mine were unhooked and filled with dirt when I got mine, I just left them eliminated. I'm still putting my engine back together and not to the vac lines yet. I know there are a ton of vacuum lines stock on these. This may help. http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/vactails.htm
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post #11 of 24 Old 03-20-2013, 08:35 PM
lucdog
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I believe this is called the CTO switch. One of its functions is to, when the engine get to a certain temp, open the heat riser flap in the air cleaner. I "think" the other line goes to the vacuum canister. I put a mechanical temp gauge in its place.

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
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post #12 of 24 Old 03-20-2013, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
DYontheForum
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Ok how bout this. What are the minimum vacuum lines I need to have my 304 run properly?
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post #13 of 24 Old 03-20-2013, 09:21 PM
BagusJeep
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Minimum vaccum line is the one that connects the distributor to the carb. Whether manifold vacuum or ported is oft debated but if it ain't connected the vacuum advance is not going to do anything for you.

Second most important is the manifold vacuum to brake servo. This can be eliminated by taking the servo off but generally it works better with one.

After that there is all sorts of stuff you can hook up. I make do with just the above, my EGR valves are all non operable, the tank is vented through the gas cap, the TAC was lost years ago etc.

BagusJeep lives in Bali.

1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
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post #14 of 24 Old 03-20-2013, 09:23 PM
BagusJeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qualitycfi View Post
Works great now without the new Weber 38 installed (not pic'd).
Great engine bay but is your fuel filter upside down?

BagusJeep lives in Bali.

1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
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post #15 of 24 Old 03-20-2013, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
DYontheForum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BagusJeep
Minimum vaccum line is the one that connects the distributor to the carb. Whether manifold vacuum or ported is oft debated but if it ain't connected the vacuum advance is not going to do anything for you.

Second most important is the manifold vacuum to brake servo. This can be eliminated by taking the servo off but generally it works better with one.

After that there is all sorts of stuff you can hook up. I make do with just the above, my EGR valves are all non operable, the tank is vented through the gas cap, the TAC was lost years ago etc.
How do I know if my fuel cap is vented?
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