As I am starting to put my Jeep back together I realized how bad the rats nest of wires in the engine bay, original 30, is. So I wanted some good ideas to clean it up. I was thinking about going to HEI, which would remove some stuff but I'm not sure what. Maybe the painless wiring harness would be a good idea, but there is not much wrong with my factory harness.
Also I have a mess of vacuum lines that I have no idea what to do with, I will get pics tomorrow.
They are not that difficult to marshal back into the original wiring looms. Get the original diagrams for the routing and it will start to make sense.
A few cable ties will help get them together.
I then use flexible conduit, the sort you can get for computer wires, and wrap each part of the loom in that with a few cable ties on the outside to hold it together.
When you hav that you will notice your rat's nest is under control.
Not too sure, mine were unhooked and filled with dirt when I got mine, I just left them eliminated. I'm still putting my engine back together and not to the vac lines yet. I know there are a ton of vacuum lines stock on these. This may help. http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/vactails.htm
I believe this is called the CTO switch. One of its functions is to, when the engine get to a certain temp, open the heat riser flap in the air cleaner. I "think" the other line goes to the vacuum canister. I put a mechanical temp gauge in its place.
Minimum vaccum line is the one that connects the distributor to the carb. Whether manifold vacuum or ported is oft debated but if it ain't connected the vacuum advance is not going to do anything for you.
Second most important is the manifold vacuum to brake servo. This can be eliminated by taking the servo off but generally it works better with one.
After that there is all sorts of stuff you can hook up. I make do with just the above, my EGR valves are all non operable, the tank is vented through the gas cap, the TAC was lost years ago etc.
Minimum vaccum line is the one that connects the distributor to the carb. Whether manifold vacuum or ported is oft debated but if it ain't connected the vacuum advance is not going to do anything for you.
Second most important is the manifold vacuum to brake servo. This can be eliminated by taking the servo off but generally it works better with one.
After that there is all sorts of stuff you can hook up. I make do with just the above, my EGR valves are all non operable, the tank is vented through the gas cap, the TAC was lost years ago etc.
Minimum vaccum line is the one that connects the distributor to the carb. Whether manifold vacuum or ported is oft debated but if it ain't connected the vacuum advance is not going to do anything for you.
Second most important is the manifold vacuum to brake servo. This can be eliminated by taking the servo off but generally it works better with one.
After that there is all sorts of stuff you can hook up. I make do with just the above, my EGR valves are all non operable, the tank is vented through the gas cap, the TAC was lost years ago etc.
Good question. I don't know but I found out most Locking gas caps seat so poorly they vent all the time. E-check cant even get them to fit on their tester so I pass all the time...
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