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Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineSteering and more from Ruffstuff!The Original 3/8" Ruffstuff Diff Cover!

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Unread 08-10-2013, 09:29 PM   #31
philwil
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1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: , Georgia
Posts: 33
Another question...what is this hose on the bottom of my distributer cap that is not connected to anything? thanks in advance.



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Unread 08-10-2013, 09:54 PM   #32
MrWonderful73
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Luck, Wisconsin
Posts: 185
That is your vacuum advance...should be connected to ported vacuum.
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Unread 08-10-2013, 10:39 PM   #33
wellmax
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1984 CJ7 
 
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I was driving my old jeep one day (1984 CJ-7) and noticed coolant dripping into the passenger floor board.

if you decide to make the heater core replacement yourself,
just a note to the wise:

unless you are a get in there, tear it out, remember where everything is type guy, replacing the heater core was probably the biggest job I ever did on my old jeep.

I had someone else, replace the engine, new long block

you need a good repair manual, I got a official shop Jeep repair manual for 1984 model jeeps, the same as the jeep dealer repair shops used.

worth every penny:

also note to the wise: do not go cheap on the heater core, buy the best one you can find, you do not want to have to do this job again.

if I had to do it over again, I would hook the heater hoses together and say screw the heater core,

I never run the jeep with the top on anyway, so who needs a heater.
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Unread 08-11-2013, 08:49 AM   #34
philwil
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1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrWonderful73 View Post
That is your vacuum advance...should be connected to ported vacuum.
Does anyone have a picture showing where the "ported vacuum" is located?
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Unread 08-11-2013, 10:21 AM   #35
MrWonderful73
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Luck, Wisconsin
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Your CTO valve which is attached to the manifold should have ported vacuum. Its a black plastic attachment with 5 vacuum ports coming off of it. Ported vacuum will not feel suction at idle you won't have vacuum until the motor is revved.
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Unread 08-11-2013, 10:21 AM   #36
MrWonderful73
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P.s let the arguments begin whether it should be attached to ported vacuum or standard vacuum
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Unread 08-12-2013, 09:30 AM   #37
Ken4444
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1985 CJ7 
 
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Location: Houston, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philwil View Post
... what looks like anti-freeze in the passenger floor board. Looks like it is running down form under the dash somewhere.
Replacing the heater core isn't horrible because you don't need any special tools to do it. It's a lot easier to do on a CJ than on a newer vehicle.

What many people will do is just bypass the heater core totally by connecting the 2 heater hoses together. This prevents coolant from flowing through the heater core and bypasses the leak. Of course you won't get any hot air from the thing. To do the bypass, you need a plastic or metal fitting that fits the heater hoses. If you are unsure about the size, cut off 1/2" of heater hose, take it to the auto parts store, and have them help you get the right size fitting and hose clamps.

Ideally, however, you need to replace the heater core. As you have found there are some other posts and threads about this.

The process is basically this, off the top of my head:

1) Disconnect everything from the heater box (heater hoses, brown wire to the fan, drain hose, all of the mechanical control wires that lead to the dash panel. Label the control wires before disconnecting, so you know what connects back to what.

2) From the engine compartment, remove the 4 or more nuts that attach the heater box to the firewall. The hardest nut is behind the valve cover of the engine.

3)It may take some wrangling to get the heater box free from the firewall after the nuts are off. Some folks will remove the passenger seat to get more room to work. This can help when you reinstall the heater box too.

4) After the box is out, remove the metal panel and that will reveal the inside of the whole thing, and the heater core. Many folks will take this opportunity to re build the heater box with new seals, new fan motor, etc. If your heater box has never been serviced, it is likely full of dust, dirt, leaves, and remnants from whatever critter may have been living in there. There are also several posts about rebuilding the heater box. You also want to consider the "blazer blower motor" upgrade. This involves replacing the factory heater fan with a new fan from the right 80's model Chevy Blazer. The Blazer fan motor moves more air than the original motor. You also have to enlarge the round hole in the firewall to accommodate the blazer motor. The blazer motor may be cheaper than the Jeep motor anyhow.

5) Reinstalling the heater box isn't too bad, but getting the 4 or 5 threaded studs through the matching firewall holes is a pain. I have found that you can cut a 2x4 to the right length and wedge the board between the heater box and the floor pan in front of where the passenger seat is located) to hold the heater box in place before you get the nuts reinstalled. This will also hold it while you run around to the engine to see if any of the studs have made it into their holes in the firewall.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 09:52 AM   #38
philwil
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1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: , Georgia
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Thanks for the response Ken. Heater core will be arriving tomorrow and not sure when I'll get the time to get it installed but your post will definately help. I can get the wife to help when reinstalling, so that should not be to bad.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 10:45 AM   #39
Jeeprage
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1986 CJ7 
 
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Location: Braintree, MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
Replacing the heater core isn't horrible because you don't need any special tools to do it. It's a lot easier to do on a CJ than on a newer vehicle.

What many people will do is just bypass the heater core totally by connecting the 2 heater hoses together. This prevents coolant from flowing through the heater core and bypasses the leak. Of course you won't get any hot air from the thing. To do the bypass, you need a plastic or metal fitting that fits the heater hoses. If you are unsure about the size, cut off 1/2" of heater hose, take it to the auto parts store, and have them help you get the right size fitting and hose clamps.

Ideally, however, you need to replace the heater core. As you have found there are some other posts and threads about this.

The process is basically this, off the top of my head:

1) Disconnect everything from the heater box (heater hoses, brown wire to the fan, drain hose, all of the mechanical control wires that lead to the dash panel. Label the control wires before disconnecting, so you know what connects back to what.

2) From the engine compartment, remove the 4 or more nuts that attach the heater box to the firewall. The hardest nut is behind the valve cover of the engine.

3)It may take some wrangling to get the heater box free from the firewall after the nuts are off. Some folks will remove the passenger seat to get more room to work. This can help when you reinstall the heater box too.

4) After the box is out, remove the metal panel and that will reveal the inside of the whole thing, and the heater core. Many folks will take this opportunity to re build the heater box with new seals, new fan motor, etc. If your heater box has never been serviced, it is likely full of dust, dirt, leaves, and remnants from whatever critter may have been living in there. There are also several posts about rebuilding the heater box. You also want to consider the "blazer blower motor" upgrade. This involves replacing the factory heater fan with a new fan from the right 80's model Chevy Blazer. The Blazer fan motor moves more air than the original motor. You also have to enlarge the round hole in the firewall to accommodate the blazer motor. The blazer motor may be cheaper than the Jeep motor anyhow.

5) Reinstalling the heater box isn't too bad, but getting the 4 or 5 threaded studs through the matching firewall holes is a pain. I have found that you can cut a 2x4 to the right length and wedge the board between the heater box and the floor pan in front of where the passenger seat is located) to hold the heater box in place before you get the nuts reinstalled. This will also hold it while you run around to the engine to see if any of the studs have made it into their holes in the firewall.
2nd all of this. It really isn't too hard to take apart, just take your time and track the bolts as you take the box apart. DEFINITELY upgrade to the Blazer heater motor while you have it all apart. Huge difference if you will ever us the heat.

It was great the other night coming home from dinner with my wife. Even with doors off, it was keeping our feet warm.
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Unread 08-18-2013, 04:35 PM   #40
philwil
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1981 CJ7 
 
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Windsheild frame cowl seal

Got the windshield back on the jeep and installed the cowl seal. Wondering if the lip is supposed to stick out like the first picture below or if it folds under. Also, if it sticks out, seems like water would collect there.
9539878657_12c6ae7a50_b.jpg   9539876305_cac3780dc3_b.jpg  
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Unread 08-18-2013, 04:40 PM   #41
philwil
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1981 CJ7 
 
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Windshield frame finally installed

Finally got it back on the jeep and hopefully get the glass installed this week. Then I'll be back on the road again.
9542718908_227ff4271e_b.jpg  
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Unread 08-18-2013, 04:42 PM   #42
LeePrather
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1978 CJ5 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philwil
Got the windshield back on the jeep and installed the cowl seal. Wondering if the lip is supposed to stick out like the first picture below or if it folds under. Also, if it sticks out, seems like water would collect there.
The lip goes up over the windshield and, yes, you probably want to try and seal it somehow to the windshield...
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Unread 08-29-2013, 02:14 PM   #43
philwil
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1981 CJ7 
 
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Posts: 33
back on the road

was able to actually drive the jeep around town last night after having the carb rebuilt. Running smooth and keeping my fingers crossed.
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Unread 08-29-2013, 02:19 PM   #44
philwil
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1981 CJ7 
 
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Location: , Georgia
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billet aluminum dana 300 transfer case shift knob

I have looked every where and unable to find one with pattern 4L-N-2H-4H. You will see pictures of Rampage part #46009 with that looks right but then find a picture for the same part # with the exact opposite pattern. So far, the only one I find is on ebay and a bit expensive, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Dana-30...6dd4ea&vxp=mtr. Anyone else having this problem?
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Unread 08-29-2013, 04:49 PM   #45
Matt1981CJ7
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Location: Elbert, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrWonderful73 View Post
P.s let the arguments begin whether it should be attached to ported vacuum or standard vacuum
Actually, the factory layout for his '81 most likely used both manifold and ported. Manifold when cold, ported when warm, controlled by the CTO.

Later models (1983 on) were hooked only to manifold.

Matt
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