81 CJ7 Clifford 258 Engine flutter - JeepForum.com
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Unread 06-20-2013, 05:43 PM   #1
KnoxButler
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81 CJ7 Clifford 258 Engine flutter

Hello guys, this is my first post! Love the community you guys have built up here!

Anyway I just recently bought a 81 CJ7 with a Clifford 258and have noticed that when idling and and when the engine is at specific rpms (mostly on the higher end) that the engine flutters a little and there is a little shake that goes with it. Almost like the engine is loosing a little bit of power for a second. I can make it a little better if I fiddle with the choke a little but I can never manage to completely stop the flutter.

I notice the flutter most when I'm at the top end of 2rd and 3th gear but can also get it by just revving up the engine. Once I get to the point where it flutters, if I hold the rpms steady at that point it will keep doing it but not when the rpms are above or below that point, if that makes any sense.

I saw somewhere else on this form someone mention that it might be a vacuum leak.

Any information would be great, thanks guys!
-Knox

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Unread 06-20-2013, 06:02 PM   #2
walkerhoundvm
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What carb are you pairing with it?

Vacuum leak is a possibility, but I bet we'll need more info...
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Unread 06-20-2013, 06:27 PM   #3
KnoxButler
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I believe it has a 2 barrel carter 0-2425. Sorry im new to all this, this is the first car iv had with a carburetor. Hope that helps.
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Unread 06-21-2013, 12:37 AM   #4
BagusJeep
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What shape is your ignition in? It could be some stray arcing in the distributor.
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Unread 06-21-2013, 02:36 PM   #5
KnoxButler
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I took a look and it has an accel super coil 140001 that appears to be in pretty good shape. This morning after some more research I also took a look into the carb. to see if the venturi might be leaking while it was idling and didnt notice anything, but I did notice that a lot of the vacuum tubing was cracked and dried out some places there was the nibs for the hose to fit over but no tubing. Could a worn out or missing vacuum line be causing this? Would it be worth me figuring out the diagrams etc. and going through the trouble of trying to replace all of the vacuum lines to prevent other problems?
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Unread 06-21-2013, 04:17 PM   #6
walkerhoundvm
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Short answer: yes. Maybe a pic of your engine bay, specifically the carb and all of its ports, your intake manifold, your canister, power brakes if you've got em, and distributor would help us.

There are diagrams all over this forum on how to route the vacuum lines, but feel free to post pics and ask questions if you can't figure them out
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Unread 06-21-2013, 05:09 PM   #7
KnoxButler
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I attaatched some pictures that I hope help and I took a
that might also provide further incite. Thanks for sticking with me on this
image-1.jpeg   image-2.jpeg   image-3.jpeg   image-4.jpeg   image-5.jpeg  

image.jpeg  
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Unread 06-21-2013, 07:18 PM   #8
WindKnot
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This may not help solve your problem, but there's some information that may help you in the future...

You don't have a "Clifford" 258. Clifford doesn't build engines but does manufacture performance parts for the 258. They're mostly famous for their intake manifold, performance cam shaft and exhaust headers. They also make an aluminum valve cover and that's what you've got. (The original engine came with a plastic valve cover and the PO probably needed to replace it.)

You have a stock intake manifold and it's hard to tell, but from what I can see a stock exhaust manifold as well.

Also, I believe your fuel filter is "clocked" wrongly. I may be wrong, but I believe the filter should be such that the two outlets should stack directly above each other with the carburetor feed on the bottom and the return on the top.

You may also may wish to research the "Team Rush Upgrade", a simple upgrade to your distributor that helps separate the plug wires to prevent misfires in the distributor at higher revs. (It's simple, easy to do and mostly involves snapping an adaptor on the distributor for a larger cap and replacing the sparkplug wires.)
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Unread 06-21-2013, 08:49 PM   #9
KnoxButler
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Thanks WindKnot. My mistake on the valve cover, I knew some stuff about cars but this is really my first time really jumping into one with a goal of doing everything myself.

So if iv identified the fuel filter correctly, that silver barrel with one line running right into the forward part of the carb. and another running down underneath the frame to, if im correct, the gas tank. it should be rotated so that line going directly to the carb. is on bottom?

Ill take a look into the "Teem Rush Upgrade" that you mentioned as well.

Thanks again, I really appreciate the help.
-Knox
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Unread 06-22-2013, 12:13 PM   #10
CJ7_Jim
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Let me ask a stupid question...why do you have the choke pulled all the way out if the engine is already warm?

Jim
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Unread 06-22-2013, 12:36 PM   #11
KnoxButler
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It completely warmed up and it seems to be idling the smoothest all the way out. When its pushed in it starts to "flutter" more.
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Unread 06-22-2013, 12:55 PM   #12
CJ7_Jim
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When you pull the choke all the way out, you are blocking off the air flow to the carb.
Chances are you have a good sized vacuum leak somewhere.
Start checking around the base of the carb and trace all your vacuum lines and see what's leaking.
This is one of the main reasons I went to FI.
Seems like there are about five miles of vacuum lines in the loop and if one of them are leaking you can have all kinds of problems = ))
Once your engine is warmed up, the choke should be pushed all the way in.

Jim
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Unread 06-22-2013, 01:13 PM   #13
boojeep
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I don't know if this will make any difference but my fuel filter is opposite of yours. Single end towards the carb.
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Unread 06-22-2013, 03:04 PM   #14
KnoxButler
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-Jim, Iv suspected a vacuum leak and I plan on going through the maze of it and replacing a lot of it. I just have to figure out where it is all supposed to go.

-booJeep WindKnot mentioned the fuel filter as well im going to check it out and see whats up with it.

Keep the suggestions and comments going, all of it is helping!
-Knox
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Unread 06-22-2013, 03:18 PM   #15
LumpyGrits
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Sounds like a 'cross-fire' or direct to gnd fire issue.
When was the last time you put in new dizzy cap, rotor, spark plug wires and spark plugs?
DON'T go the cheap on this either..........Go to NAPA and get their"Gold" line stuff.
LG
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