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80 CJ7 frame replacement

12K views 47 replies 7 participants last post by  Cutlass327 
#1 ·
Hello All
I am new member to this site but have browsed the forum a lot. I want to thank everyone who has submitted their adventures here. I have learned a lot and still have a lot to learn.
Anywayhow, on to my story.
I have previously owned a 1990 YJ and a 1993 YJ. Loved them both but I ran across a 1980 CJ7 and although I knew it needed some major work I purchased it. I wanted to go 'Old School'
The 80 CJ I got had a fiberglass body already on it. I know a lot of people do not like it but the Ohio salt will eat an older body. So to me that was a plus. The Jeep looked good but the frame was shot. And I do mean shot! It had a plow on it. It had a 304 V-8, 4 speed T-176, Dana 300 transfer case, 30 and 20 axles with 3.31 gears.
I purchased the jeep in the fall of 2009. I figured a frame replacement wouldn't be too bad or that costly.... lol yea right. I am working with limited funs so I have to watch my spending. I figured I would get a year or two out of it before I had to get the frame done.
As it stands now May 2011 it is about 7/8 of the way done. Any comments will be welcome.

On to the story! Pic heavy :thumbsup:
 

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#28 ·
So in the process of getting things done with this thing. All new brakes and hardware, s.s. brake lines, s.s.covered brake flex lines, changing it over from manual brakes to power brakes, sometimes it seems like a million and one little things.
As I was taking pics, my youngest daughter and mother stopped out to see my progress. Well they are both on the short side. My daughter is about 5' tall. Here you can see her standing next to the jeep and she barely comes up to the cowl! Oh wow, yes a little lift in that there jeep! lol
 

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#29 ·
I may have mentioned this before. But the carpet was shot in the jeep. I do not think carpet should be in a jeep that goes off road anyhow! Doesn't make sense. So I ripped out the old carpet. It was a long and crappy chore. The p.o. had used tons of glue to hold it in. so after getting all the carpet and glue out I decided to put in the d.i.y. truck be liner. I have heard a lot about it on this forum.
What do you think?
 

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#31 ·
I had the frame level and the body level. I then used 1.5" mounts at the front. Then what ever the rest of the mounts measured out at I cut them plus 1/8". Where I mounted the mid section, over the plate I welded they came out to be about 1" I felt more comfortable with that then the 2.5" it would have been. I think it makes it more solid that way.
 
#32 ·
Once the tub was on I began working on things like converting it to power brakes, working on the wiring ect.
With the brakes I got a setup from a wrangler. But after seeing how I had to modify it to fit I decided against it. I did find a cj power brake set up and used it. I had to lengthen the brake rod because of the fiberglass body. Everything else bolted right up.
I also redid a lot of the wiring. One reason was because the old wiring was so cut up, corroded and was basically crap. I got another wiring harness, one for the front, and one for the rear and modified them. I added grounding wires to them.
Probably one of the things I did wrong was I would work on several different things at once or jump from one thing to another. But in the end it is still coming together....
 

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#33 ·
For example with the wiring. I switched to L.E.D. tail lights. The old ones were wired with 3 wires. The new ones are wired with 4 wires. I even used quick disconnects and added trailer wiring.
 

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#34 ·
One nice thing about working on the jeep and still always looking for parts or just looking is you never know what you will run across or when. Back a while I had mentioned that I took my dash off to clean it up and fix the rust on it and to do some wiring repair while I was at it? Well I got it done, but before I reinstalled it I ran across a s.s. dash on Craig's list. A S.S. dash can run you $200.00 to $300.00 depending and that does not include the clove compartment door or the column cover. I picked up a new one, with door, with column cover for $75.00 and it was still in the original shipping create! Oh Yea!:2thumbsup:
 

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#35 ·
To this point it was from October to the middle of January. I kinda really slowed down on working on my baby for a while. My garage is kinda airy and with Kerosene running about $4.00 a gallon... Well I am back on the project full again. I need to get it done! been to long! I did a little to it here and there, but not like I should have...
while I was taking the siesta I did pick up some parts. Like a Sparta lunch box locker for the amc 20, a pair of 1 piece axles from ten factory, and some odds and ends.... So as they say, there is more to come!
 
#36 ·
Hi I am back

For the past month I have been very busy with work and working on the jeep as much as possible. I actually got it together enough to take it for a test ride. Ah it was so awesome! BUT... There were a few problems that I found and I need some advice on. I also decided to change the rear axle over to a 1 piece unit with 10 factory axles and added a spartan locker.
 

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#37 ·
I followed the directions with the axles and had no problems changing them over. All new brakes and hardware too.

Also pulling the old spider gears and putting in the new locker was a breeze! Went very smooth.

Now driving it with the new locker is a little different than driving without one. So far it has been a very good experience however I have noticed it catching in a turn if I put too much power to it and barking the tires. I can't wait till I get it off road to see how well it does!

Every where I have read you had to take the carrier out to install the locker. But with my 3.31 gears I had no problems doing it in the axle. The drift pin was easy to get to.
 

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#38 ·
I also got a new top for it. Got the best top with tinted windows. It also cane with all the hardware since I did not have it all. The doors are from my last top. They are still in great shape except for the door handles that I will have to take off and re-due.

I also as you can see need a set of good bumpers and other items. Even though it is not done I have gotten a lot of complements on it. It is a blast to drive too.

But....
 

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#39 ·
Now for some of the problems that have crept up.

while doing the first test drive I found the steering totally out there and unacceptable. I knew that when I had put the steering back together that the tie rod from the Pittman arm was worn and needed replaced. But I figured for a short drive it would be ok. I also know there is a little play in my steering shaft. I will explain that shortly.

I did replace the whole arm from the Pittman shaft to the steering knuckle. It did make a little bit of difference as I knew it would, but it is still too much, way too much play.

Here is what I have done to the steering so far. I have checked all the components. The tie rod ends, the ball joints, the axle bearings, the spring mounts, and the power steering box and mounts. I did adjust the steering box. That helped a little. My steering box mount is a aftermarket heavy duty unit and is bolted in good and strong.

Also I have not had it aligned by a pro shop but I did check the caster as best as I could. I got a 4 degree positive reading both sides.

Everything 'seems' to be ok other than my steering shaft. I know it is loose but it is not creating all that excessive play!

Any ideas??????
 
#40 ·
Ok. Steering shaft....

When I put the body on I did increase the height about 2" over stock. The steering shaft had to be lengthened. However it would not move, no matter what I did to it. I ended up heating it where the 2 shafts meet and melting out the plastic in there. I was able to mount the steering assembly then with no problems. There is some play there but not enough to support all the play that I have now.

I have looked for new plastic inserts to put back in there to firm it back up but have not found any as yet. I have also searched without success to locate new plastic and/or a solution to my problem. I don't want to have to buy a new aftermarket $300.00 shaft if I don't have to.

I got to thinking about it. I wonder if that plastic is injected in there after it is together... Hummmm..

Any help or thoughts????
 
#42 ·
Great write up.:thumbsup: I finally dug my CJ out of the garage after 10 years. It had a fiberglass tub, and rusted frame like yours. I did the frame swap, and the big stuff, then kids and work and bills came along and it's been tucked away ever since.
I cleaned everything out to sell it, started to do some work on it to get it ready, got bit by the bug and pull down the ad.:2thumbsup:

As far as your steering shaft, on every body lift I have ever installed, you would melt out the teflon to extend the steering shaft. It's there from the factory so the column is able collapse in an accident.
I would imagine it wouldn't hurt to put a tack weld to stiffen it up if you think that's your problem. Just keep in mind why it's able to collapse in the first place.

Keep up the good work. Hopefully I'll have some pictures of my own before too long. I know what work you have gone through so far.
 
#43 ·
I've seen HD Rugged Ridge steering shafts for under $200.. I'll probably go that route. I was thinking about maybe checking with Custom Clutch or other drivetrain shop about replacing that cheezy u-joint design with an actual one, and if it'd be cheaper than a good HD shaft..

I finished my frame swap last week, I started on Tuesday and finished Saturday evening, and that is including running a few times for extra bolts and other misc parts/tools. I'll have to get the pics and comments on my "build" thread here in the next few days. I took a few days vacation and did all the work in those 5 days, but I had the frame already to go, the suspension on it, and all the major things (SS brake lines, bulk SS fuel lines, steering box mount, etc) all ready to go. All I have left is my nerf bars and a bumpers. A former co-worker does fab-work and he's building the bumpers, and I am going to sand/wire brush my bars and throw some POR15 on them. I like the old school of the nerf bars, so laugh if you want! ;)

I know you live nearby - I probably drove past your house/road on the way to/from where I did mine!. We should meet up sometime and compare notes!
 
#44 ·
Hello All

It has been a while since I last posted. Been some changes here and there, some trials and errors and such. I will update it all soon.

But the biggest news........ Wait for it...... Is an engine swap in the near future. I do not like the AMC series of engines. Never have never will. Sooooooooooooo I will have some goodies for sale here soon. (as related to the AMC 304 V-8)

I just purchased a Ford 97 Mountaineer 5.0 302 V-8. It will be my new power plant. I will be retaining the T-176 D300 setup.

I will need some ideas and assistance. I hope to pick up the motor Monday or Tuesday and then start collecting the other parts I will need. Bell housing, flywheel, motor mounts ect. Any help anyone can offer will be appreciated!

Mike
 
#45 ·
Ok went and picked up the new engine for the jeep. As it turns out it is an early 97 mountaineer 302. Built in 1996. It does have the large intake on it and has the 3 hash marks on the heads. I take it that means it is the GT40 heads?
What was really nice to find out is that the wiring harness is 100% complete and intact! Including the computer. It also has the complete drive with all accessories still mounted.
What do you all think so far?
 
#46 ·
Hey, it's been a while since you've been on, but if you see this, I was curious how the engine swap went... I am needing to do something ASAP, my rear main seal puked today and I now have <5psi oil pressure at idle (odd how they are timed together!)... was looking for tips/tricks you had along the way if you have it done.
 
#47 ·
Hello Cutlass
I am still running the ole 304. Was thinking of selling it as a package deal with everything so someone could swap it into their Cj. I still want to put that 302 in there.
Maybe soon.
As for your motor, wow that 5psi isn't good. Sounds like you may be looking for a new motor.....
 
#48 ·
Yeah, was talking to my wife about it today. I have a carbed 83 302 long block, may put that in for now. Just need I/E manifolds, carb, bell house, pilot bearing. Already have the MORE mounts...

Might just rebuild the 258 for now though. May be the cheapest route we can afford this year. Already put an OME 2.5" lift on it, I realized with the winch and plow on it I was riding the bump stops!!
 
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