80 cj5 with turn signal issue - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 15 Old 08-06-2013, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
jeep rio
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80 cj5 with turn signal issue

Hey everyone, Its been a while since I've been on here and posted but I just got another jeep after getting out of it for a few years. Its a 1980 CJ5 and is the first cj I have ever owned. Any way I am having one heck of a time with the turn signals on this thing. When I first got it they wouldn't flash at all. The previous owner as it turns out put led tail lights on it but never installed the correct flasher for the led lights so that they would flash.

Well I went out and got the correct flasher for led lights and they work just fine with the engine not running and the key in the run position. However as soon as you start the jeep and go to use them they do not flash any more. All the other lights on the jeep work perfectly. Not sure what the problem could be that would cause them to only work with the engine not running and the key in the run position. At a loss so any help here would be appreciated. Also if it helps the jeep does have a flaming river tilt column which I am not too impressed with either. As always I appreciate your help.


1997 XJ Sport 2 Door- High country suspension and skid plate package.
2006 TJ- Custom lift 4in Full traction springs, OME shocks, Kilby skid plates and bumper, Full traction 3 link in rear, JKS control arms upper lower, Banks exhaust, Edge trail jammer, 4.56's and true trac front, Eaton elocker rear. D30, D44

1995 YJ Rio Grande- 4.0l Swap 3.5 in 4wd hardware lift, Ford 8.8 Rear 4.10 gears.
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post #2 of 15 Old 08-07-2013, 03:59 AM
John Strenk
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That is a weird problem.

Do they come on and not flash or don't even come on.

Do they work when the headlights are on?

What I'm thinking is that with the engine running, power is being applied to the turn signal circuit after the flasher.

If you pull the flasher out. do the turn signal lights not come on at all?
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post #3 of 15 Old 08-07-2013, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
jeep rio
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The indicators come on on the dash when the engine is running but they don't flash. It will only flash when the key is in run and the engine is not running. Also with the headlights on it doesn't change the symptoms at all.

1997 XJ Sport 2 Door- High country suspension and skid plate package.
2006 TJ- Custom lift 4in Full traction springs, OME shocks, Kilby skid plates and bumper, Full traction 3 link in rear, JKS control arms upper lower, Banks exhaust, Edge trail jammer, 4.56's and true trac front, Eaton elocker rear. D30, D44

1995 YJ Rio Grande- 4.0l Swap 3.5 in 4wd hardware lift, Ford 8.8 Rear 4.10 gears.
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post #4 of 15 Old 08-07-2013, 04:01 PM
LumpyGrits
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The LED lights do not 'pull' enough of a 'load' to signal/cause the flasher to cycle when the engine is running.
Look for a HD flasher that is not load sensitive.
LG
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post #5 of 15 Old 08-07-2013, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
jeep rio
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Yep, That's what I purchased already to get them working at all. It's especially for led turn signals. Before I bought the led compatible flasher the signals would just come on solid whether the engine was running or not. Do you think maybe this flasher is bad already? It's the type that has the separate ground wire coming off it. Here's a link http://m.summitracing.com/parts/upd-90650

1997 XJ Sport 2 Door- High country suspension and skid plate package.
2006 TJ- Custom lift 4in Full traction springs, OME shocks, Kilby skid plates and bumper, Full traction 3 link in rear, JKS control arms upper lower, Banks exhaust, Edge trail jammer, 4.56's and true trac front, Eaton elocker rear. D30, D44

1995 YJ Rio Grande- 4.0l Swap 3.5 in 4wd hardware lift, Ford 8.8 Rear 4.10 gears.
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post #6 of 15 Old 08-07-2013, 04:47 PM
LumpyGrits
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Never seen those.
I use an old style motorized flasher with my LED, t/l's.
Not sure the why of a dedicated gnd lead either.

LG
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post #7 of 15 Old 08-07-2013, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
jeep rio
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I used one just like it on my yj but it was from painless. It's just the painless one is $40 and to me that's a little excessive for something that's just a toy. I'm not too sure on the ground wire either. But it's making me wonder if going cheap this time is getting me what I paid for. Do you have a part number or any info on the one your using lumpygrits?

1997 XJ Sport 2 Door- High country suspension and skid plate package.
2006 TJ- Custom lift 4in Full traction springs, OME shocks, Kilby skid plates and bumper, Full traction 3 link in rear, JKS control arms upper lower, Banks exhaust, Edge trail jammer, 4.56's and true trac front, Eaton elocker rear. D30, D44

1995 YJ Rio Grande- 4.0l Swap 3.5 in 4wd hardware lift, Ford 8.8 Rear 4.10 gears.
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post #8 of 15 Old 08-07-2013, 05:25 PM
LumpyGrits
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Sorry, no PN
Got it from NAPA years ago.
BTW- You get what you pay for. Going the cheap, costs more in the long run.
LG
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post #9 of 15 Old 08-07-2013, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
jeep rio
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Yep for as long as I've been playing with jeeps and muscle cars I've learned that lesson a few times the hard way. Oh well once I get home from the drilling rig I'm working on tomorrow ill dig into it some more and see what I can figure out

1997 XJ Sport 2 Door- High country suspension and skid plate package.
2006 TJ- Custom lift 4in Full traction springs, OME shocks, Kilby skid plates and bumper, Full traction 3 link in rear, JKS control arms upper lower, Banks exhaust, Edge trail jammer, 4.56's and true trac front, Eaton elocker rear. D30, D44

1995 YJ Rio Grande- 4.0l Swap 3.5 in 4wd hardware lift, Ford 8.8 Rear 4.10 gears.
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post #10 of 15 Old 08-10-2013, 05:40 AM
pipster453
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Check your grounds. Had a similar problem when I wired in my tail light although not LED.
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post #11 of 15 Old 08-11-2013, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
jeep rio
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I played with the wiring in the taillights, it is a disaster back there as none of the crimps had heat shrink on it so of course the connections were corroded. Also the trailer harness the previous owner put on was just twist spliced on to the factory light wires.

I ended up doing away with the trailer harness completely and put all new weather proof connectors on everything. I haven't had a chance to see of this fixed my problem yet as I have the heater assembly out due to changing the blower fan. I'll keep you guys posted.

1997 XJ Sport 2 Door- High country suspension and skid plate package.
2006 TJ- Custom lift 4in Full traction springs, OME shocks, Kilby skid plates and bumper, Full traction 3 link in rear, JKS control arms upper lower, Banks exhaust, Edge trail jammer, 4.56's and true trac front, Eaton elocker rear. D30, D44

1995 YJ Rio Grande- 4.0l Swap 3.5 in 4wd hardware lift, Ford 8.8 Rear 4.10 gears.
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post #12 of 15 Old 08-11-2013, 01:00 AM
Msmall
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I'd look at the main turn signal switch in the steering column and the connection under the dash. Im not certain but believe there are 2 power lines in the bunch. one always on and one on with car on....just like a radio. Constant power and ignition power.

T
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post #13 of 15 Old 08-11-2013, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
jeep rio
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yea that would make sense. This thing has a flaming river column in it and the p/o made a mess of the wiring going to it. Today I got the new heater blower in and put the box back under the dash so I should be able to start it again and test it tomorrow. Thanks for the help!

1997 XJ Sport 2 Door- High country suspension and skid plate package.
2006 TJ- Custom lift 4in Full traction springs, OME shocks, Kilby skid plates and bumper, Full traction 3 link in rear, JKS control arms upper lower, Banks exhaust, Edge trail jammer, 4.56's and true trac front, Eaton elocker rear. D30, D44

1995 YJ Rio Grande- 4.0l Swap 3.5 in 4wd hardware lift, Ford 8.8 Rear 4.10 gears.
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post #14 of 15 Old 08-12-2013, 08:02 PM
Msmall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep rio View Post
yea that would make sense. This thing has a flaming river column in it and the p/o made a mess of the wiring going to it. Today I got the new heater blower in and put the box back under the dash so I should be able to start it again and test it tomorrow. Thanks for the help!
I've got to do the same with the heater box. How difficult was it and where did you get the parts. Did you upgrade the blower?

I don't know if I want to just get an aftermarket heater or track down an original box...
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post #15 of 15 Old 08-12-2013, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
jeep rio
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Its not hard at all. Three nuts on the firewall remove the heater core hoses, remove your glove box insert, and remove the entire under dash heater assembly. It takes some wiggling but it comes right out. For my parts I ordered a blower motor for a 87 yj from advance auto cost me $29.00.

You may be wondering why I ordered a blower motor for a yj and that's because the one advance auto listed for a cj looked nothing like the ones Ive seen In 78 and up cj's yet the yj one matched perfectly. Keep in mind only 87-90 yj blower motors cross over to the late cj's. I have done the blazer upgrade in my friends 80 cj7, its the same deal you just have to use a hole saw to make the blower motor hole bigger on the fire wall.

1997 XJ Sport 2 Door- High country suspension and skid plate package.
2006 TJ- Custom lift 4in Full traction springs, OME shocks, Kilby skid plates and bumper, Full traction 3 link in rear, JKS control arms upper lower, Banks exhaust, Edge trail jammer, 4.56's and true trac front, Eaton elocker rear. D30, D44

1995 YJ Rio Grande- 4.0l Swap 3.5 in 4wd hardware lift, Ford 8.8 Rear 4.10 gears.
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