79 cj7 carb replacing motor craft 2100 thoughts and recommendations - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 08-13-2017, 05:05 AM Thread Starter
rhoj
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79 cj7 carb replacing motor craft 2100 thoughts and recommendations

TX for help soooooooooooooo far on carb issues !!!!!! PROBABLY choke issues

Decided to either have carb professionally rebuilt or get a new one.

Votes or rebuild?????

OR


Which brand new carb to go with??????

ALL positive comments are appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!TXS

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post #2 of 16 Old 08-13-2017, 06:13 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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Don't you already have a thread on this subject?

Just rebuild the carb yourself. A 2100 is about as simple as they get.

Matt


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post #3 of 16 Old 08-13-2017, 06:24 AM
OrangeCJ-5
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I sent mine out to get rebuilt. It had slop in the throttle shaft. Very happy with the result and it has a lifetime guarantee. I had to pay for shipping it back to them once for a driveability issue which was about the same as a the cost of a rebuild kit. They found rust in the fuel bowl and still did not charge me.

Like Matt said there isn't any reason you cannot do it yourself if it just needs a good cleaning and freshening up.
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post #4 of 16 Old 08-13-2017, 06:46 AM Thread Starter
rhoj
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yes I do and I didn thank folks for previuos thoughts but looking for recomendations on carb types or rebuild , I rebuilt carb still runnng bad!!!! like you said probably choke problem.

TXagain
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post #5 of 16 Old 08-13-2017, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhoj
yes I do and I didn thank folks for previuos thoughts but looking for recomendations on carb types or rebuild , I rebuilt carb still runnng bad!!!! like you said probably choke problem. TXagain
Have you confirmed the choke isn't working, or tried adjusting it?

Matt


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post #6 of 16 Old 08-13-2017, 08:38 AM
gunsanddaisys
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When you say running bad, what all does that imply? Is it just taking too long for the idle to drop, or is there more to it?
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post #7 of 16 Old 08-16-2017, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
rhoj
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More info----I rebuilt the carb a tad bit ago.
Just yesterday I sprayed the choke mechanism it's moving very freely, openned up the springbox on carb it's a ok,

It takes at least 5 minutes of somewhat faster running (perhaps 1200 rpm) keeping foot on gas pedal for it to stay running once I take my foot off the pedal. It's a heat activated choke so I am guessing that something is wrong with that????

As best as I can tell I do not have any vacuum leaks

It wants to stall after a short run and stopping (VERY local drive mainly on my dead end street)

I have adjusted the air flow needle valves and the timing is dead on

Thanks for encouragement!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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post #8 of 16 Old 08-16-2017, 07:18 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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On a cold engine, one pump of the throttle should close the choke. From there, you should not have to use the throttle to start. Once the engine fires, the choke should open slightly, about 3/16", and the engine should idle at a higher than normal RPM for a few minutes, as the choke gradually opens all the way. After that, another pump on the throttle should disengage the choke and allow the idle to drop to normal RPM.

Matt


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post #9 of 16 Old 08-16-2017, 08:02 AM
gunsanddaisys
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So I'm assuming the short drive that ends in a stall is after the engine is fully warm, correct? If not, let it warm up completely before we start trying to diagnose things. Your choke butterfly needs to be completely vertical and open to begin tuning.

First off, what rpm are you idling at when warm? How many turns in is your curb idle screw? How many turns out are your idle mixture screws?

Secondly, how well did you clean the carb. A rough or lack of idle can be caused by clogged or blocked idle passages in the venturi body.
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post #10 of 16 Old 08-16-2017, 09:55 AM
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Obviously if you rebuilt it and its still running bad, then there's something still wrong. But is it running rich or lean? Do you know how to read plugs? What about post pictures?

Figure that out 1st, then go from there.
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post #11 of 16 Old 08-18-2017, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
rhoj
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Guys thanks for all the help I do have a rather basic question about my carb. PLEASE NO LAUGHING!!!!! how do i tell if the choke is electic or heat activated???

There is a housing on the left side of the jeep with a small spring coil inside which leads me to beleive it's "climatic controlled" HOWEVER there is an electric connection that goes to the housing which confusses me??????

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO which is it???? THANKS
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post #12 of 16 Old 08-18-2017, 11:22 AM
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The electric connection on the black housing means it's probably electric, however hot air activated chokes also used some electrical assist. To be sure it's not hot air controlled, check for some steel hard lines running from the choke body and to a manifold. If those line are present and connected, it's a hot air operated choke. If not, it's fully electrically operated.
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post #13 of 16 Old 08-18-2017, 11:50 AM
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Here are the steel lines Guns is talking about. If you have them, then it's a hot air choke, which was common on AMC V8s.

Matt
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post #14 of 16 Old 08-19-2017, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
rhoj
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yes lines are present and only 1 electrical connection sooooooooooooooooooooooooooo I am going with HOT AIR NOT fully electical

TX !!!!!
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post #15 of 16 Old 08-19-2017, 11:07 AM
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You still haven't said how the choke is working now. Does it work like I described above, or not?


We need more information, if we're going to help you.


Matt


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