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Unread 07-07-2013, 03:05 PM   #1
jennkent5454
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1979 CJ5 
 
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79 cj5 transmission installation 3 days no progress

I decided to replace the clutch so we dropped the transmission, we got the clutch installed and the bellhousing on but we cant get the transmission to line up and slide in. We have tried with the skid plate/mount, without the skid plate/mount. Have tried everything even to remove the new pilot bearing to make sure the trans shaft would fit. Im at a loss here about how to get it in.

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Unread 07-07-2013, 03:58 PM   #2
LumpyGrits
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Did you check fit the new friction plate of the clutch on your tranny's input shaft before the install? You do this to verify the splines are correct for the input shaft.
What did you use to align the clutch disc when you tightened down the p'plate?

LG
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Unread 07-07-2013, 04:11 PM   #3
chatham
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you can pickup a cheap clutch alignment tool at a auto parts store or even use a old broom handle. like said above you got to make sure that the clutch plate is aligned properly with the pressure plate or you will never get the input shaft in.
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Unread 07-07-2013, 05:00 PM   #4
jennkent5454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
Did you check fit the new friction plate of the clutch on your tranny's input shaft before the install? You do this to verify the splines are correct for the input shaft.
What did you use to align the clutch disc when you tightened down the p'plate?

LG
I checked to be sure the clutch disc fit on the trannys shaft and the pilot bearing as well- both did fit
I used the allignment tool that was supplied with the kit.
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Unread 07-07-2013, 05:07 PM   #5
jennkent5454
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on a side note what is the torque of the p-plate bolts? I just twisted one off in the flywheel. should I tap it out or buy a new flywheel?

the tranny and t-case are so hard to Maneuver without the correct tools, thats my main issue, trying to get the tranny shaft lined up with the engine swaying on the 2 motor mounts.
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Unread 07-07-2013, 05:13 PM   #6
LumpyGrits
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Good deal
How close do you get the engine and tranny? With in 2-3 inches?? If this...
Take 4 long bolts that will screw into the back of the engine and cut the heads off.
Use these headless bolts as 'alignment pins' to guide the tranny 'home'.
BTW: Those plastic alignment tools ain't the best. Do you have an old input shaft for your tranny? That is really the best tool to use.
P'plate bolt torque s/b 12-15 lb. lbs MAX and use blue loc-tite.
Can you get the broken bolt out??

LG
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Unread 07-07-2013, 05:31 PM   #7
jennkent5454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
Good deal
How close do you get the engine and tranny? With in 2-3 inches?? If this...
Take 4 long bolts that will screw into the back of the engine and cut the heads off.
Use these headless bolts as 'alignment pins' to guide the tranny 'home'.
BTW: Those plastic alignment tools ain't the best. Do you have an old input shaft for your tranny? That is really the best tool to use.
P'plate bolt torque s/b 12-15 lb. lbs MAX and use blue loc-tite.
Can you get the broken bolt out??

LG
the closest I got was about half an inch, but the tranny was a little cockeyed so the holes didnt line up but it was pretty close a few time that longer bolts would have worked.
I dont have an extra input shaft to use but def a great idea for the next time (I hope theres no next time).
Im going to try and tap the hole and see if I can get it out.
any tips on lifting that heavy beast?
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Unread 07-07-2013, 05:40 PM   #8
LumpyGrits
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BEFORE you pull the FW.
Center punch to marks. One on the FW down in the bolt area. Then another one right next to the first one on the crankshaft itself.
This way you don't have any chance of loosen balance.
You may need to take it to a machine shop to remove that busted bolt head.
Did the b'head twist off at the surface, or did it break below the surface??
What bolts are you using?? They need to be at least grade 5 certified.
Just lay the FW on your chest and roll out with it. The hard part is put'n that sucker back in and keep'n ALL of you fingers

LG
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Unread 07-07-2013, 05:46 PM   #9
jennkent5454
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The bolt broke below the surface. I will prob end up taking it the shop tomorrow, they can tap it out and install the tranny. Hopefully it won't cost to much which is why I was doing it myself.
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Unread 07-07-2013, 05:52 PM   #10
LumpyGrits
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Don't give up
Learn to do it yourownself
Just use a torque wrench on the FW bolts and on the p'plate bolts.
LG
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Unread 07-07-2013, 08:08 PM   #11
CSP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
BEFORE you pull the FW.
Center punch two marks. One on the FW down in the bolt area. Then another one right next to the first one on the crankshaft itself.
This way you don't have any chance of loosen balance.
The AMC flywheel bolt holes only line up one way. They look like they are symmetrical, but they are not.
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Unread 07-07-2013, 09:52 PM   #12
LumpyGrits
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Yeah, I know, just easier to line up that way.
LG
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Unread 07-08-2013, 06:13 PM   #13
jennkent5454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
Good deal
How close do you get the engine and tranny? With in 2-3 inches?? If this...
Take 4 long bolts that will screw into the back of the engine and cut the heads off.
Use these headless bolts as 'alignment pins' to guide the tranny 'home'.
BTW: Those plastic alignment tools ain't the best. Do you have an old input shaft for your tranny? That is really the best tool to use.
P'plate bolt torque s/b 12-15 lb. lbs MAX and use blue loc-tite.
Can you get the broken bolt out??

LG
So p-plate bolts 12-15 lbs

What should the following be?
Bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine?
Bolts that hold the tranny to the bell housing?
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Unread 07-08-2013, 06:19 PM   #14
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jennkent5454 View Post
the closest I got was about half an inch,
I had the same problem with my T5. The fix was to have a helper work the clutch pedal in and out a few times while I pushed the trans toward the engine. That got it in the remaining amount. I can thank Jeepforum for that trick, but unfortunately I don't remember who specifically posted the technique.
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Unread 07-08-2013, 06:29 PM   #15
LumpyGrits
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jennkent5454 View Post
So p-plate bolts 12-15 lbs

What should the following be?
Bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine?
Bolts that hold the tranny to the bell housing?
Depends on bolt dia and thread. Also the bolts strength specs(GD5, GD8).
Again, GOOGLE is your FRIEND
http://www.repairengineering.com/bolt-torque-chart.html

LG
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