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Unread 08-16-2014, 03:28 PM   #1
alafreakinbama
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79 cj5 rotor removal

I'm trying to replace the brakes and rotors. I'm a novice at this. Most of the time I can find info on YouTube to get me by, but I'm stuck.

image-3849001512.jpg

I've got the rotors to here. I'm missing something because I cannot figure out what to do next. I've tried pulling the rotor off from here. Any help would be much appreciated.

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Unread 08-16-2014, 06:28 PM   #2
firegod33
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I don't see it in the pic but there should be a snap ring around the stub shaft. Remove it, if it's there and pull the inner part of the locking hub off the axle. Behind that, will be the spindle nuts.
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Unread 08-16-2014, 07:02 PM   #3
dg6772
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Once they are removed the rotor and hub will come off as one unit. From there I put the rotor on the floor on two pieces of 4X4 then with a brass bar I knock out the wheel studs. After that I turn the assembly over, put a 2x4 on the hub and drive it from the rotor. The hub and rotor are 2 separate parts. Reassemble in the reverse,but I drive the wheel studs back in with my brass bar,and tighten down with an impact and a lug nut on some washers to make sure they are all the way seated. Not too hard to do.....good luck

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Unread 08-16-2014, 07:39 PM   #4
Dborns
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Once you get too the spindle nut, you'll need one of these:
wrench-1-2-inch-drive-spindle-nut-socket-a692n_1999.jpg

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Unread 08-16-2014, 07:48 PM   #5
Dborns
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It'll remove the two spindle nuts that are on the axle shaft. Don't use a chisel and hammer like alot of people do; it'll ruin the nuts, and you need the socket to get the nuts back on and torqued correctly anyway. If youre lucky, you maybe able to get the nuts off by hand, (mine were so loose, I didn't even need the tool), and you can at least get the brakes done while you order the socket. Its $10 here:
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/spindle...ive-a692n.html
I've used mine a bunch, so its not like youre wasting money buying a tool you'll use once. Then when you get everything apart, you'll need to do what dg6772 says to get the hub and rotor apart. Theres alot of metal touching metal which means rust. I sprayed a bunch of PB down the lug nut holes and into the crevices and then beat the heck out of them to get them to break apart.

When you put the new rotors on, put a small amount of anti-seize ONLY where the rotor sits on the hub. Don't get any on the brake pad surface.
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Unread 08-16-2014, 09:46 PM   #6
dg6772
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Dborns is correct,I forgot about that tool. I use mine often. Every winter I break my front end down for cleaning and greasing. Here,there is a lot of sand and water. Bad for bearings,so I clean them every year....

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Unread Yesterday, 08:36 AM   #7
alafreakinbama
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Thanks for the help. I was just missing one part. Like I said, I'm a novice. Just takes me time and smarter people than I am. Thanks again
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Unread Yesterday, 12:34 PM   #8
Mike Romain
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I must be missing something. I just gave my rotors a good smack with a hammer and they come off if I remember right, no need to get into the bearings. Some penetrating oil around the lugs helps, but I hit on the cone part of the rotor, just like loosening off a drum brake drum. Hit one side, then the other and off it comes. That said, the wheel bearings should be repacked when you do brakes, but mine had been done recently.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
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Unread Today, 06:12 AM   #9
ADDZ71
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Mike - The 79's and possibly earlier had a funky design compared to most new vehicles and require the entire hub assembly to come off to replace the rotors.
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Unread Today, 07:56 AM   #10
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADDZ71 View Post
Mike - The 79's and possibly earlier had a funky design compared to most new vehicles and require the entire hub assembly to come off to replace the rotors.
I think the first time I took one off I might have punched the lugs in to do it, was back in 99, after that they came off. I use antiseize on just about anything I might need to remove though.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread Today, 09:14 AM   #11
CSP
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All of the CJs require the lugs to come off to get to the rotors. They go through the back of the rotor, so the shoulder of the lugs is behind everything and the splines are supposed to engage both the rotor and the hole in the wheelbearing hub. If the rotor and lugs come of with a couple hammer hits your lug splines are shot and not gripping like they should.
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Unread Today, 10:58 AM   #12
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
All of the CJs require the lugs to come off to get to the rotors. They go through the back of the rotor, so the shoulder of the lugs is behind everything and the splines are supposed to engage both the rotor and the hole in the wheelbearing hub. If the rotor and lugs come of with a couple hammer hits your lug splines are shot and not gripping like they should.
Wouldn't doubt that! Lol.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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