Originally Posted by bogbear
Driving down the road CJ stalled, couldn't get it started. Cranks but will not start, replaced the following:
I look down the in carb, and I believe I only see one stream of fuel, could this be a carb issue? Any suggestions?
I hate to sound like a broken record, but did you start with the simple things...
Like checking the Ignition fuse?
Do the gauges read correctly (or move) when you turn the key switch to the 'Run' position?
If you get the gauges to move, then it's probably not the ignition switch or the fuse.
If you get yourself a $6 test light
(looks like an ice pick with a bulb in the handle and a wire coming out of the handle)
Connect to the battery NEGATIVE terminal, and test (probe) the light on the battery positive terminal...
Once you know what a 'Bright' light looks like (and you have confirmed you have a good ground connection and the bulb is working)
Then take the coil wire connector off the ignition coil.
Probe the RED wire terminal of the CONNECTOR with the key in the 'RUN' position.
You should get a 'DIM' light.
Probe the same 'Red' wire terminal while someone CRANKS the engine (Starter) and you should get a 'Bright' light.
If you don't get the bright and dim lights, there there is an issue with getting power to the ignition coil and probably the module also.
Now, connect the clip of the test light to the POSITVE side of the battery, And probe the NEGATIVE battery terminal.
You should get a 'BRIGHT' light.
This time, probe the GREEN wire terminal of the ignition coil connector.
You should get a BRIGHT light with the ignition switch in the 'RUN' position.
When you crank the engine, you should get a FLASHING light as someone cranks the engine over.
*IF* you do not get the 'Bright' and Flashing lights,
You have a bad ignition module,
Bad ground from distributor to ignition module,
Or you have a bad wire between coil connector and ignition module (Green wire).
*IF* you get 'Bright' and 'Flashing' lights,
Then you are going to need to do some more testing, Probably testing the distributor 'Stator' ("Trigger") for resistance, and that means a Multi-Meter or taking it off and into the parts store so they can test it.