my clutch pedal has about a quarter of an inch from the floor left on it after you are in gear. i adjusted the clutch pedal as far as i could, and i can still drive and shift it, but it is definitely worn out and time to replace. thinking about tackling this myself, but have heard it is a difficult job. i'll have to do it in the driveway from underneath the CJ, no access to lifts or air tools or anything like that, but i ain't scaired of doing it. how difficult and troublesome is it? i have an 89 F150 pickup that i did a top end on myself years back when i had head gasket problems, and i know a clutch replacement is different, but turning wrenches is turning wrenches. this is also something i will have to tackle solo. am i crazy? any suggestions on a replacement clutch? difficulty? special tools necessary? thanks
It's not difficult at all. remove the tranny, you should have a T150 3-spd (small and fairly light), Place a jack under the transmission support, unbolt the support from the frame, disconnect front and rear drive shafts, lower the jack and remove tranny support cross member. There are 4 bolts attaching the transmission to the bell crank, top two you can get from inside the jeep, bottom two underneath. remove tranny carefully (I drained mine prior due to rebuild). Unbolt the bell crank (I think there are six bolts on the tranny side and 4 on the front (towards engine side). Two of the front bolts also attach your clutch linkage bracket. Once you pull the bell crank, you'll be looking at your clutch/pressure plate assembly. Be carefull not to lose the clutch fork pivot ball and springs when removing the bell crank. Many clutch kits come with everything you need to easily replace it: clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bushing, and arbor tool for aligning the new clutch plate and pressure plate when installing. I recently bought a kit for my 77 CJ-5 that contained all of these items for about $140 at Advance Auto.
I'm sure I may have missed a detail or two but that's the jist and it's really a simple job, just a bit dirty but hey, jeeps are dirty right? Oh yeah, the clutch kit I bought also contained instructions
you, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar, and i appreciate the info. dirt, i don't mind. i didn't want to wind up with a hernia for all my trouble. i figured it would take something like the jack thing. luckily i have a lot of room under there. you're obviously happy with the advance auto clutch kit. i don't know who gets you the biggest bang for the buck. i know different guys swear against different parts houses, and some guys would trade their wives for parts from others. i don't know. i read about the changing problems in a book called the jeep owner's bible by moses ludel, but figured it best to talk via this medium with guys who had been there. thanks
I just rebuilt the t150 and replaced the clutch on my wifes CJ7. it's pretty much as stated above. I used a motorcycle lift to drop the transmission and transfer case out, made it easier since it sits on a big skid plate.
I should mention that I've never done anything like either of those before, but with good instructions I can do pretty much what needs to get done.
The biggest problem I had with the clutch was getting the pressure plate bolts out without the flywheel spinning. I'd imagine you could stick something in the flywheel to keep it from spinning, but I just used an impact gun to take it all apart. The other problem I had was with the pilot bushing, it really didn't fit well into the flywheel, I had to knock it in there, just make sure it's straight or else you'll catch hell with getting the tranny back in. I also slowly torqued the pressure plate back down slowly in a criss-cross pattern until I got to the required torque settings.
I got my clutch online from Carolina Clutch for just over $100 shipped to my door. It was a Luk, and had the clutch plate, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bushing and alignment arbor in the kit.
I did have both ends of the jeep sitting up on jack stands in the garage to give me more room to work underneath.
I used the Chilton manual for directions on the clutch, gave me everything I needed, and the wife is happy with her new clutch.
Actually, new clutch is in but my trans is still on my bench waiting for a backordered synchronizer assembly so I haven't driven it with the new clutch yet. Out here in the sticks, the closest retail auto parts store is Advance Auto and that's 15 miles away. The next closest is more like 30 miles, hence buying from AA is simply a convenience. Ubergeek got a good deal if all that was delivered for $100.
thank you both, i have a chilton manual (i was the successful bidder on e-bay for three bucks--i got such a good deal on the manual that i went out and found the CJ to go with it.) i use a floor jack in my truck (the first thing i did when i bought the ford was to throw away the screw model that came with it and put the floor jack behind the seat), and that is the one i'll use for this, it should do nicely. i'll check out carolina clutch. you found this online? i generally follow the chilton instrustions or threads on line (used one to tear down and rebuild my steering column, etc.) i have no shame, what i am not sure of when i read, i just drive over to any garage that's open, dealership, doesn't matter, bypass the service manager and walk right up to a mechanic and ask until i find one with the right answers
if you are having problems with the friction point in the clutch you might be missing the pivot ball my clutch had to be pressed all the way to the floor and i knew something was wrong i got everything off and it was just resting on the ball pedestal and we fixed that but now i cant figure out how the skid plate goes on surfing the forum now
by the way its a 79 cj5
This sticker is inconvenient and dangerous, but I do love Fig Neutons