Jay now that you say that I wouldnt doubt that wouldnt be the problem as I used short hex headed bolts threaded the whole way that just barely fit threw the pressure plate holes and torqued them all to about 16 ft lbs which pretty much pressed the ears of the pressure plate tight to the flywheel. This would cause the clutch disk not to disengage huh?
Where would I go about trying to get those bolts tomorrow at somwhere local??? Dealership or could I find them at the hardware store.
Double check your clutch documentation. Jeeps basically use a standard domestic light truck clutch. They're pretty much universal fit. You should be able to go down to your local auto parts store and grab a pack of shouldered clutch bolts from behind the counter. My local stores have a section with Mr. Gasket, Holley, MSD, etc. They're usually in the same section in a plastic pack. Now, with that said, standard torque isn't usually 16lbs, it's 40lbs. I've never put in a fancy aftermarket pressure plate like the Centerforce, so your mileage may vary, but 16lbs sounds awfullly light to me.
Hey, one more thing while I'm thinking about it. Since we're talking about installation, whenever you replace those bolts make sure the clutch disc went in the right way. It's almost impossible to go in backward. Almost. I bought a Jeep not too long ago that was in backward when I stripped it down. Flat side goes toward the flywheel. Would definitely cause problems.
As far as the throwout, it's not rocket science. If it slips over the input shaft and pushes against the pressure plate, it "should" open. There's a lot of room for error built into the slave between the throw and freeplay adjustments.
Even the smallest of air bubbles can cause problems. When you bleed, pump the clutch a bunch, crack the bleeder and close it (while your buddy keeps pressure on the pedal), then put fluid back in the resevoir before the next pump. Then, once you think you've got all the air out, bleed from the slave. You can just do this by hand. Remove the slave, compress it, crack the bleeder, close the bleeder before releasing the slave. Then, repeat for the master one last time for good measure.
Also related to bleeding, is the bleeder pointed straight up? You'll never get the air out if it is pointed sideways or down.
also almost looks as something may have been rubbing on the bushing but its hard to tell. Anyone see anything wrong. I am about to call centerforce and see if there is something special about there throw out bearing that would make this work.
Can't see pics right now, but if the input shaft is tight inside the pilot, it might take a few miles to put enough wear on it to disengage. Mine was like that at first when I installed a new trans. Shouldn't take more than a few starts, though - it's steel on bronze.
well I was talking with centerforce and they are saying the throw out bearing I have should be fine. They are also stumped as far as what cause be causing this exactly telling me it the bolts would just cause a vibration possibly and had a hard time believing it was the throw out bushing.
They told me that once the throw out bearing makes contact with the fingers it should be about 3/8-9/16 of an inch to operate the clutch correctly. This would translate to 3/4- 7/8 inch of throw at the clutch rod which I should have plenty of travel if thats the case.
There has to be something that is hanging up and not letting it free up.