'74 CJ5 lift Q's. - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 13 Old 01-02-2006, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
tomchurch
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'74 CJ5 lift Q's.

So if you read my earlier post I just got a '74 CJ5 with a 304, D44 up front and a Frod 9" in the rear. I'm planning on putting 33x13.5 LTB's on it. Since I was off today I spent a lot of time on the net researching my options. It seems that I need about a 4" lift to really clear the tires with good flex and that's what I am looking for. I will be in the mud a lot but I also like to play on the rocks and I would like to see some nice flex. With that in mind I have an idea for the suspension and I am looking for advice since I am pretty new to Jeeps (I have a lifted Nissan).

Since I have read that that 1) the smaller the spring lift the better the flex because of the lesser arch of the spring pack and 2) the shackles really give the articulation. So option one would be to get 2.5" Lift Springs and 1.5" shackles (with 4" lift shocks and I assume I need a dropped pitman arm and shims for the driveline angles). I am not opposed to cutting some fender if needed as well but need to keep the jeep street legal. The other option is just to go with a 4" lift (with 4" lift shocks and I assume I need a dropped pitman arm and shims for the driveline angles) and just make it easy. Will the spring/shackle combo really give me better flex than the 4" springs alone?

Not planning on a body lift unless I really need the overall lift to go over 4" which I don't think is needed for 33's.

Also I assume rim backspacing will play a role in rubbing...what is a good BS for this setup?

Thanks,
Tom

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post #2 of 13 Old 01-03-2006, 06:58 AM
CJ51973
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I have 33s with w 2.5" lift and lots of trimming. My shackles add another 3/8" or so (5/8" longer than stock). Everything is still covered legal wise although we don't have regs here in KY. The problem is the up stroke of the suspension. With only about 3/4" lip left in the front fenders and about 4" cut out behind the tire on the rear I have my bump stops lower than stock. I did this to keep my springs from bending backwards. The fronts are 1 1/2" lower and the rear are 2" lower. With this lift my rear driveshaft barely works in stock form running at about 13 deg. This is with a T18 so my driveline might be a little longer than yours. So IMHO if you go higher than I am you'll need a CV style rear driveshaft or drop your tranfer case which wouldn't be smart considering that you plan to use your Jeep off road.

So, what to do. Set it up similar to mine. By a larger lift and plan to do a CV rear drive shaft ($450) and lower bump stops than mine. If you do major trimming the front fenders look fine. If you want the rear not to look so butch you could get TJ flares and mount them close to the stock front edge of the rear fenderwells and trim the rear portion out.

Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
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post #3 of 13 Old 01-03-2006, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
tomchurch
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So you had to do major trimming with that setup...hmmm...Maybe a 1" body lift is in order then. I'm ok with some trimming but I think we have tougher front fender regs out here in NY and I would loke to have some decent articulation.

Thanks
Tom
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post #4 of 13 Old 01-03-2006, 08:53 AM
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The 1" body lift should take care of the front. You may still have problems with the back corner in the front scrubbing the tire when turning. The rear will still require a little trimming with the tires sticking out of the fenders. I assume that tires are sticking out with the axle swaps. If your 33s I would do 2.5" with some HD shackles and the 1" body lift. Then take it somewhere controlled you can flex it and see what will hit. Take measures from there (trimming, bumpstops).

Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
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post #5 of 13 Old 01-03-2006, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice...that sounds like the best plan of attack. It's going to be a good long process of testing and cutting.

Tom
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post #6 of 13 Old 01-03-2006, 10:50 AM
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Tom build a lift. Order a 4" lift springs for the rear and a set of Rancho 44044 for the front. These are 2" lift for a waggy. However they are equal to a 4" CJ lift. the added bonus is the centering pin is offset 2" this will allow you to move the front axle forward preventing the rubbing of the front fender. also increases the wheelbase. If youwant to put them front and rear you can increase the wheelbase to 99". Just a bit of fyi.

86 CJ7, 258, t18, D300, D44's 4.56's, Detroit front, Warn shafts and CTM joints, spool rear, SOA, SRS, waggy springs, 6 point cage, Warn winch, 38" Tsl, Allied beadlocks.
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post #7 of 13 Old 01-03-2006, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
tomchurch
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hmm...thats an intersting option...is there a write up on the process/results someplace? Any welding required?

Tom
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post #8 of 13 Old 01-03-2006, 12:25 PM
CJ51973
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The Rancho 44044 springs are 2 1/2" I think. You'll have to install new spring hangers which will require welding because your existing springs (unless they have been changed) are 1 3/4" wide. I would measure because with the axle swap they may have done something different with the springs too. I have been thinking of doing these Ranchos in the rear. It will take about 2 degrees out of my driveshaft which would make it happier. They are the same length as the stock rear springs. The front is a different story. They are longer which is good and bad. Longer means the front hanger needs to move to move the axle forward. The 44044s are the same length as your shorter stock front springs from the eye to the pin on the short side. The down side is that your approach angle suffers (shackles farther from tire). The up side is the spring is longer so a little more flex. Moving your axle may make your tierod and drag link interfere with each other so check that out as well.

Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
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post #9 of 13 Old 01-03-2006, 12:38 PM
rockreligious
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ51973
The Rancho 44044 springs are 2 1/2" I think. You'll have to install new spring hangers which will require welding because your existing springs (unless they have been changed) are 1 3/4" wide. I would measure because with the axle swap they may have done something different with the springs too. I have been thinking of doing these Ranchos in the rear. It will take about 2 degrees out of my driveshaft which would make it happier. They are the same length as the stock rear springs. The front is a different story. They are longer which is good and bad. Longer means the front hanger needs to move to move the axle forward. The 44044s are the same length as your shorter stock front springs from the eye to the pin on the short side. The down side is that your approach angle suffers (shackles farther from tire). The up side is the spring is longer so a little more flex. Moving your axle may make your tierod and drag link interfere with each other so check that out as well.
I run 44044's on my YJ, 104" wheel base. I moved rear end back and front end forward and used a shackle reverse, comp cut the tub and moved fuel tank up into the tub, yes the center pin is offset 22"pin24" eye to eye I used that as an advantage for better approach and departure by turning the spring. Ive never seen these on a CJ5 you may have to lenthen your frame or mount shackle hangers off your bumpers.

NoEcoNaziAmmo

YJ w/ CJ clip hpd44/ford9/38's/44044's/rockram/onboard weld/air/beads/104wb/teralow4to1/2loShorty.
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post #10 of 13 Old 01-03-2006, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Probably a bit more than I can do right now...I think I'm gonna go the way of a 2.5" or 3" spring lift with some shackles. Then see what I have to do. Cut out some metal or what not...maybe figure out a way to make the front fenders detachable for trail use...we'll see.

Next question is what lift...the Black Diamond 3" or the Superlift 2.5"...

Tom
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post #11 of 13 Old 01-03-2006, 12:57 PM
CJ51973
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Here's the spring stats:

stock pre '76 front 2.5 lift
RS44062
rate: 314
length: 40.5
arch: 5.1
eye1: .88
eye2: .88
width: 1.75
thick: 1.66
offset: 20.25/20.25
#leaves: 6

stock pre '76 rear 2.5 lift:
RS44162
rate: 287
length: 46.7
arch: 6.15
eye1: .88
eye2: .88
width: 1.75
thick: 1.66
offset: 23.35/23.35
#leaves: 6

RS44044
rate: 300
length: 47
arch: 6.58
eye1: 1.5
eye2: 1.5
width: 2.5
thick: 1.66
offset: 22.5/24.5
#leaves: 6

Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
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post #12 of 13 Old 01-03-2006, 02:23 PM
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Whatever you do, be sure to reinforce the frame around the spring hangers and the box mount. Pre 76 frames are known for cracking at these places, especialy with the lift kits and added width tires. Personaly unless you are running bottomless mud or sand, a slightly narrower tire might do better. But this a personal choice.
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post #13 of 13 Old 11-24-2013, 11:26 AM
JROCK78
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Extra bump stop?

Since we are kinda talking about bump stops, I have 4 total on the front of my 74 CJ. One right over the axle , and one towards the back of the spring. What the heck is this for?? So the axle doesn't hit the oil pan? my springs are about an inch away from them and i know thats why i'm getting such a rough ride.
I don't want to get rid of them until i talk to someone that knows whats up..
Thanks!
I can post a pic later if need be..
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