73 CJ-5 Restoration Questions - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 3 Old 07-13-2013, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Chesterfield
Posts: 13
73 CJ-5 Restoration Questions

Hi all,

I'm currently restoring my 73 CJ-5 232 and need some advice for a few problems I have.

1. Choke Heat Tube: There's a tube that extends out the top of the new exhaust manifold about 1/2" of an inch. I'm going to need to connect a new steel line to it and run it up to the choke on the carb. Not sure exactly sure how to accomplish this at the moment and was wondering if someone else has had some experience with this?

2. Mysterious Part: On the drivers side of the frame about 6" back from the end for the T-case there is a small bar that had what appeared to be a cable and bracket attached to it. Anyone know what this is or was used for?

3. Differential Yoke/Pinion Nut Torque: I replaced the pinion seals in the Dana 30 & 44 and I'm getting ready to torque the pinion nuts back down. From what I understand the 44 does not use a crush sleeve so I should just torque the nut back to about 200ft/lb? What about the 30? Do I do the same thing and torque the nut back to its factory torque specification? I've read lots of information on this and was wondering if someone could help clarify it.

4. Dana 20 Yoke Nut Torque: I also replaced all the seals and gaskets in the T-case. Do I need to just torque the nuts back to their original factory torque specification?

Thanks for the help!!!

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post #3 of 3 Old 07-14-2013, 07:36 AM
Bulldog Dave
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1975 CJ5 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Spring Valley
Posts: 8
Hi XM855,
I have a 75 CJ-5 but mine is "slightly" modified.
Question 1: For my heat riser tubes, the carb had basically steel lines bent and a slight "bump" about 1/2" from the end. The tube simply fit into the riser tube end (your 1/2" steel fitting) and then the connection to the carb held it in place. The bump in the tubing prevents it from going into the fitting too far. If you don't have the original tubing, something like a drill bit stop gage (fits around a drill bit to limit it's depth) would work also.

Question 2: I think that is the e-brake cable termination bracket. The cables from the rear drums end at that bracket, the cables stick through the bracket and the single cable going up to the e-brake pedal attaches there.

Question 3: Both the 30 and the 44 use shims to control pinion depth and preload. According to my 75 FSM, both yokes are torqued to 200 to 220ft/lbs. I'm assuming that all you did was remove the yoke, replaced the seal and want to reinstall the yoke, no gears need to be reset which is an article in and of itself.

Question 4: Yes

Bulldog Dave
1975 CJ-5, AMC 360, T-18 w/6.32, D300, 4.56's, D30 w/Lock-rite, D44 w/spool & FF, 33x12.50 MTRs, full cage, OBA, PPW, and a few other mods.
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