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Unread 09-21-2013, 11:19 PM   #1
Greekcj5
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73-76 CJ5 Brakes Won't bleed

Good evening ladies and gents. Here's my issue. I rebuilt my CJ5 and the last thing to do before taking it out is the brakes. Here's what I've done so far:

1: Tried bleeding them the conventional way (RR, RL, FR, FL)
2: Tried bleeding the front first (FR, FL, RR, RL)
3: Cleaned the proportioning valve

When trying method 1, I didn't have any fluid come out of the rear brakes.
When trying methos 2, I started seeing fluid come out then it disappeared and didn't return.
During method 3, I used air after cleaning the prop valve and each port worked as it should.

Also, when I press the brake pedal, there's about a 1-2 inch gap (play) before it's easy to tell that the master cylinder piston is actuating. It seems like a lot of play to me but I'm niether an expert nor a seasoned vet when it comes to this. I'm just a Nugget so I'm looking for whatever guidance is presented to me.

Having presented my findings, it seems to me the Master Cylinder is bad, however due to cost, I'd like to get the opinion of some pros before I make the decision to replace it.

If it's not and someone has another method of bleeding please let me know.

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Unread 09-22-2013, 12:41 AM   #2
dg6772
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It may just have air in the m/c, have you tried bleeding the master?

Dave in Muskegon
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Unread 09-22-2013, 07:21 AM   #3
jp360cj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dg6772 View Post
It may just have air in the m/c, have you tried bleeding the master?

Dave in Muskegon
This^ If you didn't bench bleed the master cylinder before installing that is most likely the problem
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Unread 09-22-2013, 08:16 AM   #4
hp_lovecraft
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I've been able to do a quick "bench bleed" while still attached to the truck. I removed the lines, and jammed in a 6" piece of poly tubing into the hole, bench around back into the resoivoir, and pumped a couple times until no bubbles were in the tubing. I forgot the size of the tubing, but poly tubing is dirt cheap at the hardware store. Probobly 1/4"?
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Unread 09-22-2013, 09:29 AM   #5
Greekcj5
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Forgive me for saying this but I didn't know the master needs to be bled also. Obviously i have a lot to learn still. I'll try that today and update everyone later. Thanks
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Unread 09-22-2013, 10:56 AM   #6
OleBlue73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greekcj5
Forgive me for saying this but I didn't know the master needs to be bled also. Obviously i have a lot to learn still. I'll try that today and update everyone later. Thanks
Bleed the MC on a bench to get full strokes with the pushrod. The pedal travel doesn't push it all the way to full get the air out when mounted on the jeep.

Also, when bleeding each wheel cylinder, the LR has the longest distance for fluid travel, so I'd bleed it first (assuming your setup of brake lines is stock).
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Unread 09-22-2013, 10:46 PM   #7
Greekcj5
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Gents, so here's the latest. I removed the MC and bench bled it. Re-installed it, bled the entire system and the brakes will stop the jeep now. However, I have to press the pedal all the way to the floor and only when I get to the very bottom, does it actually start stopping. It feels like the rod that's attached to the pedal is too short and if it were longer the pedal wouldn't have to travel as far to engage the brakes. What are your thoughts?
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Unread 09-23-2013, 01:25 AM   #8
dg6772
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The rear brakes aren't working correctly. Thats where your pedal height comes from. Could be the adjustment is off or proportioning valve is messed up. The p/v can be reset.

Dave in Muskegon
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Unread 09-23-2013, 09:30 AM   #9
MoneypitCJ5
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One thing I just want to throw out there......does your CJ use a combination proportioning/metering valve? If so, try bleeding the brakes by alternating front/rear as in, FR/RR/FL/RL. I just replaced the brake lines on my 77 and had to do it that way.
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Unread 09-23-2013, 10:25 AM   #10
Greekcj5
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Thanks moneypit. I'm not sure if there's a metering valve. I can tell the master is not the one for my year set up though. I'm almost flying blind cause the PO had a lot of units replaced and some haven't worked right so far which has led me to make adjustment during the entire rebuild. i drove it for the first time in two years last night and as long as i pressed the pedal all the way down it would stop on a dime.
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Unread 09-23-2013, 10:36 AM   #11
MoneypitCJ5
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I'm almost to the same point with mine. I started working on it as a basketcase back in February and I'm hoping to get it on the road for the first time before it gets too cold!

Good luck!
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Unread 09-23-2013, 10:39 AM   #12
Greekcj5
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Thanks. You too.
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Unread 09-23-2013, 01:43 PM   #13
Ken4444
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I don't know if your CJ has front disk brakes or not, but Ill throw this out there because it's a problem that others have run into. If it does have disks in the front, make sure the calipers are not on backward because this will allow air to be trapped in the system. The bleeder screws need to be the upper side, not the bottom.
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Unread 09-23-2013, 01:49 PM   #14
Greekcj5
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Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
I don't know if your CJ has front disk brakes or not, but Ill throw this out there because it's a problem that others have run into. If it does have disks in the front, make sure the calipers are not on backward because this will allow air to be trapped in the system. The bleeder screws need to be the upper side, not the bottom.
i have 4 wheel drums.
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Unread 09-23-2013, 01:58 PM   #15
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greekcj5 View Post
Gents, so here's the latest. I removed the MC and bench bled it.
When bench bleeding, how many times did you press the in the piston? If it was just a few, it could still have air in it. When I did my MC, I think I worked it over 100 times because I didn't want to have to pull it out and re-do it
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