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Unread 12-05-2007, 02:22 PM   #1
jeepcj7304
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1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 67
727 in a CJ

I Bleew Up My Tf 999 For The Third Time So I Bought A 83 Wagoneer And Took The 727 Out Of It It Runs Fine But I Am Concerned About How Close The Front Driveshaft Is To The Bottom Of The Trans Pan I Am Running A 4 Inch Lift Plus A Small Shackle Lift Anyone Hane Issues With This Or Is It Not Going To Be A Problem When Flexing.

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Unread 12-05-2007, 02:48 PM   #2
jason m
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
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it will beve a very tight fit to clear the front drive shaft. my friend and i had to build a two piece drive shaft to clear the pan with the dana 300. great tranney's ( the 727 ) but the jeep model found in the waggy's are not made for pass side drop. this is why the triple 9 ( 999 ) works so much better. on the flip side the triple 9 we have in a rubicon has the same problem but on the drivers. the front shaft is a pieace of 1.5'' .188 wall and its about the only thing that could fit without hitting the pan when it gets dented/bent, jason.
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Unread 12-05-2007, 06:09 PM   #3
The Von
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1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
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I have a 360-727-300 combo in my jeep. It was installed by the PO so I dont know what was involved. I know my front axle is moved 2" forward. Not much help I know but at least you know it can be done.
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Unread 12-06-2007, 07:43 AM   #4
jpfaris
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1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: York, South Carolina
Posts: 556
Having full width axles moves the driveshaft over to the PS, away from the pan.
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79 CJ7, 304, TF727, D300, FULL WIDTH D44's, 4.56:1, SPOOL LOCKERS, SOA, OUTBOARDED, SHACKLES REVERSED, HOMEMADE D-SHAFTS, 38.5" BOGGERS
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Unread 12-06-2007, 09:49 AM   #5
jeepcj7304
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Posts: 67
i am full width and it is still under the pan
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Unread 12-06-2007, 06:36 PM   #6
jpfaris
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1979 CJ7 
 
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Location: York, South Carolina
Posts: 556
what t case and axles do you have? If dana 300, did you clock it? Have you lowered your tcase? Have you flexed it?

need more info
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79 CJ7, 304, TF727, D300, FULL WIDTH D44's, 4.56:1, SPOOL LOCKERS, SOA, OUTBOARDED, SHACKLES REVERSED, HOMEMADE D-SHAFTS, 38.5" BOGGERS
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Unread 12-06-2007, 06:51 PM   #7
jeepcj7304
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1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 67
i have factory axle set 30 front 20 rear. i have not flexed it and my transfer is not clocked. i was running a 1 inch transfer drop but removed it to gain a little extra clearence. plan to flex it soon just need the snow to go away for a few days.
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Unread 12-06-2007, 07:11 PM   #8
flexncj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepcj7304
i have factory axle set 30 front 20 rear. i have not flexed it and my transfer is not clocked. i was running a 1 inch transfer drop but removed it to gain a little extra clearence. plan to flex it soon just need the snow to go away for a few days.
If you have stock axles, you're not 'Full Width'. That term is used to describe using much wider truck axles in a Jeep.
I ran a 727 in my CJ with a 4" lift. I too was concernced about driveshaft clearance, and wound up notching the transmission pan. Worked great, but I couldn't clock the tcase the way I wanted to, and wound up swapping in a 999.
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1985? Jeep CJ-7: 360, 999, D300, LOMAX 4:1, Dana 44s, 4.10's, Aussies front & Detroit rear. S0A, York OBA, YJ tub, 36" IROKs-
1989 YJ Sahara: 258, puko tranny, np231. 2-3" spring and 2" body lift. 33" TSLs- latest project.
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