64 CJ5 hydraulic clutch conversion - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 08-15-2017, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
Tuxedo64
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64 CJ5 hydraulic clutch conversion

Hi everyone, I'm working on converting my CJ to hydro brakes and clutch. The engine has been swapped but the original 134 bellhousing was used to adapt the t90 to the engine. So my question is, has anyone converted a CJ with the original bellhousing and t90 by simply mounting a slave cylinder near the transmission? I'm using xj pedals and a clutch master cylinder that has a .688 bore. Also does anyone have recommendations for slave cylinders that push? (Part numbers/model years) I've looked everywhere and can't seem to find an answer to this without having to use the original mechanical linkage. Thanks in advance!

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post #2 of 15 Old 08-15-2017, 03:34 PM
Fourtrail
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Speedway motors offers both a push and pull hydraulic cylinders. You will just need to fab up a solid mount for the other end. I suggest doing you mock up and testing with the speedway cylinder then going to the willwood cylinder for permanent use once you wear out the speedway cylinder.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/shop/s...69-20-487-2044

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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post #3 of 15 Old 08-15-2017, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
Tuxedo64
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Awesome thank you! Do you possibly know how to find or calculate the distance the original mechanical system moved? Just want to make sure I don't get a slave that's got to short or too long of a throw
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post #4 of 15 Old 08-16-2017, 08:55 AM
Fourtrail
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I don't have access to the underside of my 56 CJ-5 with a T-90 right now. Your best option for getting the throw length would probably be to ask on EarlyCJ5.com. They are more biased to the early models.

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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post #5 of 15 Old 08-16-2017, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
Tuxedo64
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Ok will do. Also I was just thinking, would it be possible/safe/functional to mount the slave cylinder further back, and then just lengthen the threaded rod that connects to the clutch fork? Since the slave cylinders' diameter may be too large to fit perfectly next to the t90, I could mount it further back, and then with a coupling nut and some threaded rod, extend it and then connect it to the fork.
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post #6 of 15 Old 08-16-2017, 09:40 AM
Fourtrail
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That sounds like you are wanting to do a pull setup instead of a push? The pull slave is only about an inch to inch and a half in diameter. Once you get it mounted to get a straight pull, you will be plenty far away from the t-90 with the fixed mount.

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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post #7 of 15 Old 08-16-2017, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
Tuxedo64
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Yes, I was thinking pull for the same reason as well. I'll get one ordered up and see what happens, if it works out I'll post some pics for everyone. I had plans of swapping the t90 out eventually but I'm the meantime I may as well make it easier to use. Not to mention eliminating all the old mechanical clutch linkages.
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post #8 of 15 Old 08-17-2017, 12:39 PM
commadore64
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Not exactly your same setup, but this is what I did with my T18... it may give you some ideas...


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post #9 of 15 Old 08-17-2017, 07:52 PM
StoneTower
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You should look into a Wilwood pull slave.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Wilw...0-1333&ie=&oe=

I am going to put one in my 85 CJ7 that has a 5.0 EFI Mustang motor and a NV4500 trans.

I am thinking of mounting one end to the torque arm or the transmission mount. The motor moves and you want the mounting points to move with the motor and transmission and not bind. It is important to mount the Wilwood slave with the moving end towards the rear of the vehicle. You would think that you would want to mount the moving end toward the clutch arm on the bell housing, but it can unscrew internally if it is done that way. The body of the slave actually moves this way but for some reason they designed it that way (you need a flexible line) and if you don't mount it this way, you will have failures like many in the street rod crowd have had. I understand that if you mount it correctly, it is almost 100% bulletproof. I spent about 15 minutes with Wilwood technical support discussing mounting options. They also recommend a 7/8 master cylinder to go with their slave.

This is the correct way to mount the slave.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/te.../photo-82.html
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post #10 of 15 Old 08-19-2017, 11:26 AM
Fourtrail
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Hmm, I have mine with the body mounted solid, not as Willwood told you. I have had about every other problem pop up, but it has never uncrewed itself. Be sure to mount a heat shield or wrap the exhaust where it passes by the slave cylinder. Heat will kill the o-rings inside in short order. Carry a rebuild kit with you, as they only take a few minuted to rebuild on the side of the trail/road.

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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post #11 of 15 Old 08-19-2017, 02:10 PM
StoneTower
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Do you have the Speedway motors copy of the Wilwood pull slave? If you do, I read that the piston is peened on the shaft rather than threaded. The Wilwood piston is threaded on the shaft and guys have even tried to locktite to fix the unthreading problem but the brake fluid seems to dissolve it.

To me it really does not make much sense to mount the slave body so that it moves in relation to the transmission each time the clutch pedal is pressed. I think a better design would be to just have the rod move. There may be a reason for this but having the supply line move each pedal press does not seem like a good design. I was told by Wilwood that it needs to be mounted as stated above to prevent problems.

My information comes for Wilwood and the rest of it comes from some Cobra kit car forums where some people have had repeated failures of the Wilwood pull slave while others have had very good luck. Those with good luck followed Wilwood's mounting instructions.

Do you have any pictures of your setup?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourtrail View Post
Hmm, I have mine with the body mounted solid, not as Willwood told you. I have had about every other problem pop up, but it has never uncrewed itself. Be sure to mount a heat shield or wrap the exhaust where it passes by the slave cylinder. Heat will kill the o-rings inside in short order. Carry a rebuild kit with you, as they only take a few minuted to rebuild on the side of the trail/road.
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post #12 of 15 Old 08-19-2017, 03:00 PM
Fourtrail
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I started out with the speedway knock off and am now using the willwood. I had a bad angle on the original setup and has issues with bending the rods and also with the o-rings deteriorating. Have since got my angles fixed, but still had issues with the o-rings. Luckily the faucet repair kit at the hardware store has the correct o-rings in it to fix the slave. I have since wrapped the exhaust and switched to the willwood as they offer a good rebuild kit unlike the speedway. Have been using the willwood for about 3 years now and have had no problems. I will try to get some pictures later in the weekend and post them up on Monday.

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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post #13 of 15 Old 08-21-2017, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
Tuxedo64
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This is super helpful! I went ahead and ordered the wilwood and then thought, shouldn't it be mounted backwards? But this helps alot! Also the slave I have is .688 diameter, (11/16 ish) and am wondering if there will be engagement issues once I get it mounted? And thank you Fourtrail for the mention about the exhaust, luckily one of the previous owners swapped the engine and the exhaust now runs down the passenger side.

Almost forgot, when test fitting everything the other day, my pressure plate wouldn't sit all the way against the flywheel with the clutch disc in between....I am getting the flywheel resurfaced before putting it all together for the last time but haven't done it just yet. So I'm wondering if this is normal and once tightened it will sit properly, or if I have another issue (other than resurfacing.) Thanks all
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post #14 of 15 Old 08-21-2017, 12:30 PM
Fourtrail
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It is a good thing that the pressure plate didn't sit flat without being tightened down. If it did there would be no pressure from the pressure plate to keep the disc engaged. As long as the disc is in the correct way, then it will sit flat when tightened down. I will double check on my master, but I believe I am using a 3/4 and have plenty of travel.

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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post #15 of 15 Old 08-22-2017, 02:23 PM
StoneTower
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I believe the Wilwood slave is 7/8" and the properly match master cylinder should be 3/4". This came from Wilwood with two different Techs on two separate phone calls that included other questions. I ask a lot of questions before I buy stuff. I average the answers and try to buy only once. I don't mind spending money, I just want to make sure that what I end up with does what I need it to do.

Looking forward to see the picture of your setup Fourtrail...(when you have time)
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