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Old 12-29-2006, 05:34 AM   #1
molsenice
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1964 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Glens Falls, NY
Posts: 1,209
DONE~! 64 cj5 frame up rebuild

well been busy lately to post - started this project out in new members area and figured it was time to post where it would stay. I am a shop teacher and this is not the first Jeep i have run across, but it is the first for me - looking for a daily runner as I also do some general construction and a tool hauler for light jobs would be better than the full size truck.

The project is a '64 cj5 that has been stripped it to the frame. I landed a used fiberglass tub as the body was toast. This a rebuild since most of the original controls for brake and clutch will not work with the new tub. Engine is completely torn down and is getting a full rebuild, frame has been hacked at since it once had a plow attached and a tow bar set up, will be repairing that and then modifying the body mounts as the originals do not line up with what is on the tub.

soo many areas to address, need to pull back on the reins since I have a few fellas who want to help - everyone has an opinion and going in 10 directions at once is not my style - engine can wait as I want to get the frame rolling so I can move it as necessary - currently it is up on stands as i need to do some welding before painting.

will post a link to some pics when I get a chance
edit: finally got a chance to group all pics - I just can not see photobucket @ work
http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/molsonice/


Last edited by molsenice; 04-25-2008 at 01:40 PM..
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Old 12-29-2006, 05:42 AM   #2
molsenice
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figured I would edit the thread to keep from jumping all over cyberspace

In the beginning - she's a real beauty



Last edited by molsenice; 10-30-2007 at 07:30 PM..
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Old 12-29-2006, 11:59 AM   #3
jayhawkclint
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1970 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
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Hey there. I tried to check out your JEEP, but all I see is pics of a Harley.

I read through the posts. Seems to be some confusion over your motor digit in the VIN. The VIN just reads 8305, which means CJ5, then a six digit serial number. That's it. (Consider your 5th, 6th, and 7th digits blank.) Looks like yours was made in Aug 1964. (http://www.mninter.net/~molsen/jeep/VIN/Vehicle_Indentification.pdf) Kaiser didn't offer the Dauntless in a CJ until 1966, so you're F-head is probably the original motor. Should have a T90 3spd (or in some cases a T86 - almost the same thing) behind it, and a D18 t-case. Your front axle should be a D27 and the rear a 19 spline tapered shaft D44. Both differentials are offset to the passenger side, 5.38 gears standard.

I'm doing a lot of the same stuff to my '70 (same body and chassis as your '64). Check out some pics here: http://www.kcjeepclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7836. Let me know if you've got some questions, or better yet, check out www.earlycj5.com, hands down the best resource on the net for your JEEP.

Last edited by jayhawkclint; 12-29-2006 at 01:16 PM..
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Old 12-29-2006, 02:57 PM   #4
molsenice
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jay hawk - thanks for the heads up with the info and the links - spent a few hours this mornin workin on the frame
I have a put file account where the pics are but since I am a new member with less than 40 posts and not sure what counts as a technical post - not sure when I will be able to post pics directly - so the reason for the link
http://www.putfile.com/molsenice/images/43701

I linked the thread to HDF since my Harley buds where following along with my inability to sit still - I know the pics made it up there - posts 26 and 27
http://www.hdforums.com/m_1067973/mpage_2/key_/tm.htm
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Old 12-29-2006, 04:41 PM   #5
jayhawkclint
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Looks like maybe someone put in some later CJ leaf springs. What is the width on those? Stock should be 1.75". Later CJ would be 2" in front, 2.5" in rear.
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Old 12-29-2006, 06:38 PM   #6
jayhawkclint
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Also, PM your e-mail address. I've got something that I think you're really going to find usefull.
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Old 12-30-2006, 06:30 PM   #7
molsenice
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Ok today I fabricated a body mount frame as the fiberglass tub mounts to the frame differently than the old steel tub. Sorry pics have to wait till tomorrow
Also got a chemistry lesson from pop for a great cleaner formula - he made his living as a chemist so he knows his chit.

Lets get the recipe on the record - first start with a 50 gallon plastic drum and make a copper ring for the barrel that you can hook to an air compressor with a regulator valve to control the bubbling action.

Add 30 gallons of water, 4 cups tsp, 2 Bottles Dawn dish soap, a large can (despenser size) of waterless hand cleaner and a gallon of denatured alcohol.

use gloves and the alcohal may stink - but otherwise - pretty environmentally decent compared to using kerosene

you may find a need to adjust levels according to the crud level, this will get it clean though

as for the rinse, dip into clear water and if you are not painting imediatly, add a small bottle of salad oil - this will coat the parts as you remove them from the water and walla - instant seal from the air - no rusting - you will need to clean this off prior to painting.

Gotta clean the shop - school starts again Tue. - I pretty much trashed the place over vacation
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Old 12-30-2006, 06:32 PM   #8
molsenice
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jahawk - going from memory, it looks as if the rear spring had a helper spring added - the bottom spring is wider than the rest of the pack.
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Old 12-31-2006, 07:52 AM   #9
molsenice
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ok in the recipe for the de-greasing tank, I found a TSP that says TSP-PF (phosphate free) - even better for the environment, not that I am a mega environmentalist - just no sense in doing more damage than necessary. besides - it is way cheaper
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Old 01-01-2007, 05:44 PM   #10
molsenice
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ok 3hrs of clean up yesterday and another couple today and the shop is ready for school - man did I trash the place over vacation.

Went on a hunting/ gathering mission today - scored a windshield, gas tank soft top, doors and a cross member to mount the power steering parts too. Also grabbed an old rim to weld up a puller to assist in removing the drums to do the brake work - there is an identical twin to this hurricane motor so had to find parts should not be a problem. Also have my pick of 2 master cylinders for the breaks and clutch linkages as the fiberglass tub has the pedals mounted already and I really don't want to add unnecessary holes - need some sleep - was up late and outta bed early

jahawkclint - did ya get my e-mail address??
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Old 01-01-2007, 06:01 PM   #11
jayhawkclint
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Quote:
Originally Posted by molsenice
jahawkclint - did ya get my e-mail address??
Got it. Sent you an e-mail back. This file I want to send to you is a 33MB(!) pdf. My e-mail account keeps kicking it back to me because it is so large. You know of any place on the net I can FTP a large file and then let you download it?

By the way, tell your dad thanks for that recipe! I've been looking for that for some time. I've got a 20gal parts washer I need to fill, and it was going to cost me over $250 for solvent. You know where I should look for TSP locally?
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Old 01-01-2007, 08:20 PM   #12
molsenice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayhawkclint
Got it. Sent you an e-mail back. This file I want to send to you is a 33MB(!) pdf. My e-mail account keeps kicking it back to me because it is so large. You know of any place on the net I can FTP a large file and then let you download it?

By the way, tell your dad thanks for that recipe! I've been looking for that for some time. I've got a 20gal parts washer I need to fill, and it was going to cost me over $250 for solvent. You know where I should look for TSP locally?

TSP is tri sodium Phosphate - active ingredient in dishwasher soap - might find it in the grocery store - it's purpose is to get the ph elevated - pop said the dishwasher soap would work also will check with him on what his opinion of amounts would be

will be setting mine up tomorrow and let ya know how well it works

BTW - I had a box of TSP-PH - which is not TSP but will still do the job, but pop said it would require another couple a cups - just looking to get the ph right

just be real careful as the stuff will eat your skin and not to preach but I wear glasses and around this stuff, goggles to prevent splashing into eyes might be a good idea
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Old 01-02-2007, 01:05 PM   #13
molsenice
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parts cleaner pics -

Last edited by molsenice; 10-30-2007 at 07:22 PM..
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Old 01-02-2007, 03:06 PM   #14
molsenice
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how well it works - oil pan before and after


Last edited by molsenice; 11-05-2007 at 08:11 PM..
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Old 01-02-2007, 03:09 PM   #15
molsenice
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oh as a side note - hands were ok and ungloved (solution didn't eat them)- the waterless hand cleaner took about an hour or so to dissolve completely and I had a piece of screen handy to skim the oil crud off the top - kinda coagulated to the top
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