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Unread 01-29-2013, 04:52 PM   #61
teh603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
Torque stick, not torque wrench, Google would be your friend here, there's a difference. And if their not using one, I wouldn't go there again.
Nope, never seen one of those used either.

Course the new tire places all do everything in the back where you can't see what they're doing. The old ones would do everything in front where you could see the guy slapping the socket right onto the impact wrench.

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Unread 01-29-2013, 08:17 PM   #62
teh603
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Ok, from looking around, I'm going to try getting a can of PB Blaster and a new lug wrench in SAE sizes. I just double-checked the lug wrench that did so much damage all those times, and it was metric.

This is why I stopped allowing dad to buy tools. /headdesk
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Unread 01-29-2013, 08:23 PM   #63
Dadamsnv
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I use a 660 FtLb air impact to get my lugs off. I don't need to cause I put em on with a torque wrench, but it makes it really easy.

I'd trust Bill on this one man, if you plan on doing serious work on your jeep, that dewalt bill posted or a gnarly air impact will be invaluable.
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Unread 01-29-2013, 08:28 PM   #64
teh603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dadamsnv View Post
I'd trust Bill on this one man, if you plan on doing serious work on your jeep, that dewalt bill posted or a gnarly air impact will be invaluable.
It'd help if I had electricity in the barn. That was why I wanted the cordless driver.
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Unread 01-29-2013, 08:56 PM   #65
Dadamsnv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teh603
It'd help if I had electricity in the barn. That was why I wanted the cordless driver.
You're in luck! It's cordless!

image-234504700.jpg

Notice the battery pack
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Unread 01-29-2013, 09:21 PM   #66
lucdog
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2 of our club members use this dewalt. It works good.

I did want to mention. Double check the wheel studs for left hand threads on IIRC the drivers side. My 1957 Willys has these. Mine are stamped with a "L" in the center of the stud.
When re torqueing the value is usually 100 foot pounds..
Bill
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 01-30-2013, 08:20 AM   #67
teh603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
I did want to mention. Double check the wheel studs for left hand threads on IIRC the drivers side. My 1957 Willys has these. Mine are stamped with a "L" in the center of the stud.
When re torqueing the value is usually 100 foot pounds..
Bill
I'm pretty sure they're all regular studs, but I'll triple-check.
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Unread 01-30-2013, 06:34 PM   #68
OrangeCJ-5
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I have one of those Dewalt 1/2" drive impacts. Awesome. One of the best tool purchases ever but as with all cordless tools the battery will die or not work as well when it gets older. I have never had a failure in getting a wheel off with a socket and breaker bar or a 4-way. The stud will break before the breaker bar or 4-way.
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Unread 02-01-2013, 05:57 PM   #69
teh603
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First tool buy is DONE. I added a few things to the toolbox:

New SAE lug wrench to replace dad's bleeping metric one
Double-sided socket wrench in 3/8" and 1/2", because the mechanism on my "old" 3/8" one is starting to go and I needed something that can handle the odd 1/2" socket
Set of feeler gauges (they were cheap)
1" socket which SHOULD fit the castle nut on the rear axle (it is a 1", right?)
Can of PB Blaster

Dad's old bar torque wrench- the thing's almost unbreakable and had the original owner's manual
Needlenose garage sale pliers.

That's about half the order, but I'm making progress. I still need the hub puller, but that's another order entirely.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeCJ-5 View Post
I have one of those Dewalt 1/2" drive impacts. Awesome. One of the best tool purchases ever but as with all cordless tools the battery will die or not work as well when it gets older. I have never had a failure in getting a wheel off with a socket and breaker bar or a 4-way. The stud will break before the breaker bar or 4-way.
It looks like I'm going to be going with the "get a 100' extension cord and less expensive corded tools" route, but I'll make a note of another recommendation for DeWalt.
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Unread 02-08-2013, 02:27 PM   #70
teh603
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I'm not going to be registering it anytime soon, but how's this for a suitably ghastly licensplate to go with a ghastly pink Jeep?



I've already got a closet and a drawer full of ghastly Hawaiian shirts to wear while driving and working on it.

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Unread 02-08-2013, 06:29 PM   #71
Dadamsnv
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I'd say you nailed the ghastly pink alright! Haha. I tried to get a custom plate, but they had already given it out
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Unread 02-18-2013, 03:09 PM   #72
teh603
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Ok, update time. I tried ordering in a hub puller, and the place was out of stock. So no hub pulling this weekend. Looks like I'll have to put it off until spring break, when I'll have plenty of time to deal with it.

So the menu for this weekend:
* Grind off five or so screw heads, off stuck and/or metric screws.
* Take the wheels and rims off the rear axle, and loosen the castle nuts so I can pull the hubs quickly come spring break.
* Uncap the differential and have a look inside.
* Maybe pull the spark plugs and try hand cranking the engine.
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Unread 02-18-2013, 03:49 PM   #73
ezamora89
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any sites where i can get parts for my jeep guys?
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Unread 02-23-2013, 07:21 PM   #74
teh603
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Busy day today. I'm not sure whether it was the PB Blaster or the 24" lug wrench, but those lugs came off pretty easy. I only had two that gave me trouble, and a lot of wrenching around finally got them off. The front two wheels are ready to come off; the back two are off.



Driver's side with L-marked studs. The drum was on real loose, and the castle nut came off with just a little jerking on the 1 7/16" breaker bar. No sweat, no cotter pin. I wasn't too happy to find out that this is such a huge castle nut, though. Had to go to Tractor Supply to get it.

The drum looks like it'll need replacing. All four drums need replacing, although I'm probably going to Steve drum brakes on the front and go with a disc kit.. They're all horribly rusted and grind a little at the bottom. Looks like I'll have to reset the runout? Something like that.



Passenger side without L-marked studs. This one had a 1 1/2" castle nut, so I had to get an old mechanic up the hill to give me a hand with it. Many profanities were sworn before I finally broke down to ask for help, though, and dad's old monkeywrench will probably never be the same. This drum feels like it was pressed onto the hub, so I'm not going to mess with it until I can get a hub puller. Wonder if I could make a hillbilly one out of an old brake drum...

Then I busted into the diff thinking it would be dry and full of rust.



This is the end result: a green bean can full of grease (which was later poured back into the diff), and a huge mess. Took me forty minutes of washing my hands to just be clean enough to take the picture. The good news is, the diff doesn't sound like its grinding. It sounds more like the transfer case. I'm going to order in a new gasket from Kaiser Willys and refill it with cleaner grease, and maybe replace the cover bolts with stainless steel. Right now they're painted and yucky.

Question time: When I turn the front axle up where its supposed to go into the lockout, and the rear hub with the brake drum off, I feel a faint ticking sensation. Is this a sign of failing bearings, or is it kinda normal? It doesn't feel especially hard to turn without the wheel hubs on it.
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Unread 02-23-2013, 07:39 PM   #75
Dadamsnv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teh603

Question time: When I turn the front axle up where its supposed to go into the lockout, and the rear hub with the brake drum off, I feel a faint ticking sensation. Is this a sign of failing bearings, or is it kinda normal? It doesn't feel especially hard to turn without the wheel hubs on it.
I don't really know what exactly you are asking about @_@

I'm sure it's me.
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