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USA Standard Chromoly Front Axle Shaft Kits with Dana 30 4Eliminate Hood Flutter!!!Offset Tie Rod Kit From RuffStuff!

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Unread 06-08-2008, 07:34 AM   #16
Bubba Ray
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
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I need to be rolling slightly to engage 4wd in my 84 CJ.

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Unread 06-08-2008, 08:59 AM   #17
Mike Romain
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Off the Grid in Chester Grant, Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 9,868
CJ 4x4 is meant for dirt or snow covered roads only, don't use it on dry pavement or things can break.

My 86 CJ7 with it's Dana 300 T-case has this really neat feature according to my owners manual, it can shift on the fly into 4 high 'at any legal speed'.

This means in the winter I can lock my hubs before I leave home if I am expecting snow squalls and just shift into 4 high when I see them coming and shift back to 2 high when I see dry pavement coming.

My owners manual also states it is best to shift into 4 low when rolling 1-2 mph. This helps the gears mesh up because there is no syncromesh on it.

The owners manual also says 'a firm hand' is needed to shift sometimes. LOL, they sure aren't kidding. Keeping the shift linkage lubed helps.

I usually use the clutch, it seems to shift a bit easier.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Unread 06-08-2008, 09:26 AM   #18
1984CJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CopperCJ7 View Post

And NO, do not drive around with the hubs locked but in 2WD.
Why?

How is driving in 2wd with the hubs locked in a CJ different from driving in 2wd in a YJ or TJ (wrangler) or CJ2a, aside from fuel mileage.
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84 CJ7 258, T5, D300, AMC 20, D30 EZ lockers F&R
33" TSL, 2.5"BDS lift, .5" shackle lift 1" body lift
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You guys on the CJ tech page are a little to tech for me. Must be the leaf springs.
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Unread 06-08-2008, 09:31 AM   #19
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1984CJ View Post
Why?

How is driving in 2wd with the hubs locked in a CJ different from driving in 2wd in a YJ or TJ (wrangler) or CJ2a, aside from fuel mileage.
Driving on our regular route to go bush camping, I get to check my mileage at the same fill to fill gas stations and when I do the run in the winter with the hubs locked it costs me less than 2 mpg. I think this is cheap insurance to have my 4x4 available instantly when a snow squall hits.

The steering feels 'slightly' heavier if I pay close attention, otherwise I can't tell the difference.

My hubs are locked on pavement for weeks and months at a time with no issues.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 06-08-2008, 02:52 PM   #20
CopperCJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Actually, it does help to push in the clutch. Even with the tranny in neutral, the viscosity of the gear oil can cause the tranny output to spin, making it difficult to shift into 4wd.
How could it help? What if the vehicle was an auto tranny? There's no clutch pedal on an auto tranny
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Unread 06-08-2008, 03:48 PM   #21
tahoe wheelers
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Most of the time my dana 300 goes into gear much better with the clutch engaged. Also, seems to work best when Im rolling. Doesnt matter what gear Im in, I shift through all four transmission gears in and out of 4wd.

There is no adverse affects of driving your rig with the hubs in 2wd. Its just recommended not to due to wear on your drive shaft and ujoints.

Also, you can drive with the transfer case engaged with the hubs out when your just wanting to put along on the easier trails and 4wd isnt needed. Still get the low range with out the front wheels being engaged.
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Unread 06-08-2008, 04:03 PM   #22
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tahoe wheelers View Post
Most of the time my dana 300 goes into gear much better with the clutch engaged. Also, seems to work best when Im rolling. Doesnt matter what gear Im in, I shift through all four transmission gears in and out of 4wd.

There is no adverse affects of driving your rig with the hubs in 2wd. Its just recommended not to due to wear on your drive shaft and ujoints.

Also, you can drive with the transfer case engaged with the hubs out when your just wanting to put along on the easier trails and 4wd isnt needed. Still get the low range with out the front wheels being engaged.
The owners manual states it is perfectly acceptable to drive in 2 wheel low, but to remember the torque is doubled so damage can happen if you are too hard on the go pedal....

The owners manual says to run with the hubs locked once a month to lubricate all the parts. No need for 4x4 for this, but what an excuse, eh. ;-)

I actually think using the hubs locked like I do on some winter days and always as soon as I hit dirt, is good for it . I think U-joints last longer when spinning under no load than sitting still rusting. I have been doing it for ten years now and my CJ is still on the last set of 'greasable' u-joints I put in in '01 when all the 'lifetime, "heavy duty"' POS U-joints I put in in 2000 all failed due to water contamination.... I got double suckered, I used the same POS ones in my Cherokee all around too.... They lasted about a year longer, well the first one failed in 8 months actually if I remember right.

Hey I 'can' change a u-joint out in less than 15 minutes now though!
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 06-08-2008, 04:15 PM   #23
tahoe wheelers
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I do the same in the winter, especially since I have a lock rite in the rear. Lots of roads in the Tahoe area dry then ice. So I leave the hubs in.
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1985 cj 7. 360 V8, 35X12.50 BFG's sitting on Crager 15X8 rims, summer brothers axle rear, Yukon axles up front, lock rite lockers front and rear, 5" of lift, body armor, six point roll cage, 8000lb warn winch, 4.56 yukon gears front and rear, t-18, dana 300. And much more on the way.


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www.reno4x4.com
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Unread 06-08-2008, 05:53 PM   #24
BESRK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CopperCJ7 View Post
How could it help? What if the vehicle was an auto tranny? There's no clutch pedal on an auto tranny
Good question.. My buggy has an auto and a D300 but it's twin sticked so it's a bit different. On the trail, I normally run around in "Front Wheel Low". It allows me to do "front digs" for tight turns. When I need to shift the rear axle into low range, I get the rig rolling, let up on the gas (to provide "engine braking") and start shoving forward on the rear axle shifter, if it doesn't go into gear, I slowly give it more gas until it shifts the rear axle into gear.

If I were shifting an auto/D300 with a a single stick, I'd do it the same way... slightly rolling, pull on shifter and slowly increase RPM until it shifts into gear.

If you look at the gears and shift collars in a D300, they're pretty much "square cut" at the face. So, if the collars/gears aren't in perfect alignment, they'll jam together. By rolling, you are varying the collar's RPM from the gear's RPM. The "slight" difference in RPM allows them to engage.

You can also try doing it at a stand still. With the tranny in first gear, push in the clutch, and try to engage 4WL. If it won't go, slowly let up on the clutch pedal while maintaining pressure on the TC stick. Once the shift collar/gear rotate a bit, it can jump into gear. Problem is.. most people let the clutch out too fast and "grind" the gears. By getting the vehicle rolling, the RPM difference between the collar/gear is a little easier to control.

As for shifting from 2 wheel hi into 4 wheel hi.. you can do that at any speed.. as long as the front/rear axle RPMs are the same. If you were spinning the rear wheels on ice and tried to shove the TC into 4W Hi, you'd probably grind the gears.. or worse.

Never a good idea to run a "gear driven" transfer case on dry pavement. When you go around corners, the front/rear axles turn at different speeds and will bind the driveline.. something will have to give. Usually, it's the tires breaking traction. However, do it enough.. and it can be something else breaking.

I've run around with my front hubs locked before.. shifting into 4W Hi just before a patch of snow/ice and shifting back into 2W Hi as soon as I hit dry pavement again.. no problem.
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Unread 06-19-2008, 09:32 AM   #25
LTICJ7Dude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Good question.. My buggy has an auto and a D300 but it's twin sticked so it's a bit different. On the trail, I normally run around in "Front Wheel Low". It allows me to do "front digs" for tight turns. When I need to shift the rear axle into low range, I get the rig rolling, let up on the gas (to provide "engine braking") and start shoving forward on the rear axle shifter, if it doesn't go into gear, I slowly give it more gas until it shifts the rear axle into gear.

If I were shifting an auto/D300 with a a single stick, I'd do it the same way... slightly rolling, pull on shifter and slowly increase RPM until it shifts into gear.

If you look at the gears and shift collars in a D300, they're pretty much "square cut" at the face. So, if the collars/gears aren't in perfect alignment, they'll jam together. By rolling, you are varying the collar's RPM from the gear's RPM. The "slight" difference in RPM allows them to engage.
You don't put the transmission in Neutral before shifting? I've got a 300 on my LT1 4L60e combo, and I always just get rolling, put it in neutral, and convince the stick into 4 Low. Any benefit to in gear versus neutral?
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Unread 06-19-2008, 10:07 AM   #26
ceejay5
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1974 CJ5 
 
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I love my OTHER Jeep, 90 Grand Wagoneer. Just hit a switch on the dash and go on my way. SO on this Jeep I speak of are the front hubs always locked as there is no manual way to change them as I can tell.
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