post #61 of Old 02-24-2013, 02:00 PM
CSP
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No, actually it doesn't. Only two wires need to be connected to the distributor as already mentioned and diagrammed.

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post #62 of Old 02-24-2013, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
motormike24
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ok guys. thanks for alllll the help despite my lack of electrical expertise. i think we got it figured out. had a loose butt connector in one of the ECM wires, and now it has injector pulse and spark, but i think i have to super adjust the distributor now because when it cranks over and tries to fire it basically stops the motor dead in its tracks, as if its extremely advanced or something. might be due to having adjusted the distributor with both modules trying to feed the distributor previously. hoping so anyway. will let ya know after i re charge the battery as i ran it dead, LOL. thanks again you guys, you are a huge help.
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post #63 of Old 02-24-2013, 03:20 PM
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There's a connector to unplug to set initial timing. It has to be unplugged to take the computer out of the loop or you'll never see it stay at a certain setting while you try to get it set. I know where the connector is on a GM vehicle, but no idea where it might be on your setup.
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post #64 of Old 02-24-2013, 03:38 PM
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For a mopar it is the engine coolent temp sensor that gets removed to set base timing.

GM???????
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post #65 of Old 02-24-2013, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP
There's a connector to unplug to set initial timing. It has to be unplugged to take the computer out of the loop or you'll never see it stay at a certain setting while you try to get it set. I know where the connector is on a GM vehicle, but no idea where it might be on your setup.
Google says its a tan/single wire connector

Edit: tan/black
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post #66 of Old 02-24-2013, 05:01 PM
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Meh I have a Howell setup, what do I know.
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post #67 of Old 02-25-2013, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
motormike24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
There's a connector to unplug to set initial timing. It has to be unplugged to take the computer out of the loop or you'll never see it stay at a certain setting while you try to get it set. I know where the connector is on a GM vehicle, but no idea where it might be on your setup.
this distributor is vacuum advance, instead of electrically advanced.... i have no such wire on my setup.
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post #68 of Old 02-25-2013, 09:48 AM
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That wire is a part of the GM harness and you do have such a wire if you left the TBI harness intact.

The distributor was originally vacuum and mechanical advance. I sure hope you've disabled both types of advance since you're now letting the TBI computer do the timing advance for you. If not, you're in for more trouble with it running correctly.
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post #69 of Old 02-25-2013, 09:58 AM
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Your suppose to pin the advance at zero so it doesn't change and or move. And not use the vacuum advance anymore.

Look in your electrical drawings. The wire for setting timing is their. Add it to you homemade wire harness exactly like it is in the book.
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post #70 of Old 02-25-2013, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
That wire is a part of the GM harness and you do have such a wire if you left the TBI harness intact.

The distributor was originally vacuum and mechanical advance. I sure hope you've disabled both types of advance since you're now letting the TBI computer do the timing advance for you. If not, you're in for more trouble with it running correctly.
If I understand the OP, he has built his own harness instead of splicing one from a donor vehicle. So, in that case, Mike will have to disconnect the wire that travels from D5 on the ECM and goes to "C" terminal on the GM 7 pin spark module. If the vacuum and centrifugal advances have not been disabled on the stock distributor then as you say," he's in for a lot of trouble to get the engine running correctly." God bless.
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post #71 of Old 02-25-2013, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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ok, now i know that. i will unhook the vacuum advance, but how would i disable mechanical advance? and that might be why it runs like **** now....and btw its an 8 pin, not 7.
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post #72 of Old 02-25-2013, 05:35 PM
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Drill a hole through it and hammer a roll pin in.
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post #73 of Old 02-26-2013, 07:33 AM
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I've welded the weights to the arms.

You really should look at least at the sticky posts on the binderbulletin's EFI forum. You might find other things you've missed that aren't obvious in this thread. It seems like you're missing a lot of the basics.
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post #74 of Old 02-28-2013, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motormike24 View Post
ok, now i know that. i will unhook the vacuum advance, but how would i disable mechanical advance? and that might be why it runs like **** now....and btw its an 8 pin, not 7.
7 pin, 8 pin, they both do the same thing...
An easy way to lock the mechanical advance is to take the top plate off the distributor, remove the springs and weights, safety wire the advance arms together if you don't want to weld them. Put it back together and perform the 0 degree base timing procedure. You should be golden... God bless.
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post #75 of Old 02-28-2013, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
motormike24
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Originally Posted by Jon In Tucson View Post
7 pin, 8 pin, they both do the same thing...
An easy way to lock the mechanical advance is to take the top plate off the distributor, remove the springs and weights, safety wire the advance arms together if you don't want to weld them. Put it back together and perform the 0 degree base timing procedure. You should be golden... God bless.
Jon In Tucson
so im sposed to set the base timing to 0 degrees instead of the 10 degrees it was calling for originally??
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